T-15 Aqua Rite salt level problem

[tbhawn]

Good morning,
We have a 4 y/o Aqua Rite T-15 SWG. We run from about 10-6 daily but every morning I get up and salt level reads 800. I manually reset salt level to 3000 (current level per testing) and SWG generates all day - no problem. Chlorine levels are great as long as I reset salt level every morning.
Next morning salt level 800, I manually reset salt level and good to go until next morning. Replaced T-15 cell (with Heyward) but it has not helped. Here are current display readings....
2900, temp 83, volt 26.3, amps 6.04, 65P, -2800, R1.59, T15
Couple random things that may or may not help - generating chlorine light stays on regardless if pump is on or off unless I switch SWG to off. No flow light no longer comes on when pump is off.
All worked fine last year.
Not sure what to do...
I would appreciate any thoughts.
Thanks

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!
A SWCG should not have power to it when the pump is not running. You say your generating light is on when the pump is off, and the no flow light no longer comes on with the pump off. That could have dire consequences besides the fact it is messing with your SWCG salinity calculation. The cell could explode due to build up of hydrogen gas in the cell.
You need to repair the flow sensor AND put the SWCG on a timer or other device that will remove the power from it when the pump is not running.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Pool School eBook.

 

[JamesW]

The cell is generating chlorine with no flow, which is dangerous due to the buildup of hydrogen gas and chlorine gas that can explode.

You need to replace the flow switch and wire the power so that the power is off when the pump is off.

What pump do you have?

 

[tbhawn]

First thank you both for taking time to reply. We have a Hayward tristar 1.25 hp. Do you think fixing the flow switch might fix my salinity calculation problem? I just added my signature which should help with general setup questions.

 

[jblizzle]

The flow switch is meant to be a back up. Yes you need to fix the flow switch. But you also MUST put the SWG power on the pump timer.

There may be nothing wrong with its salt estimates. In the morning the cell is full of chlorine and hydrogen gas and no water, which has a high resistance thus the cell thinks the salt level is too low.

 

[tbhawn]

Appreciate the reply. The salt levels will come up some (700 to 1900) after the pump has run for 30 minutes but never gets back to accurate levels.
So i took the flow switch off and checked manually (per TFP thread), it appears to not be working, my flow is fine. If I unplug the telephone looking cord from the panel the no flow light goes on. When I plug it back in the light flashes for about 10 seconds then goes off. I will contact an electrician to rewire, I can do some things but electricity is not one of them. So I understand when the pump goes off the entire panel should go off as well. Thanks again.

 

[Pool_Medic]

Your cell is doing that because the flow rate is too low, either shut the pump off fully at night or bump the speed up.

 

[AFitzy]

I'm so glad I found this site! I had the exact same problem with salt levels dropping with a 4 yr old cell so replaced the cell and the next day the LCD showed HOT. I shut off system and later recalibrated and all was fine again. Next day salt levels dropped again so I was then wondering if it was my circuit board, not my cell, that was the problem but then read your post so I'm thinking it's probably the flow switch. I have ordered a new flow switch (hoping it's easy to replace) and I am disconnecting the system each night now after the pump goes off because that generating light stays on and I don't want the cell to explode! Just so I understand this, if the generating light stays on when pump is off does that mean it definitely is not connected to the pump? That's what I think everyone is saying and if that's the case has my flow switch been responsible for controlling the generating light this whole time and now that it's broken the light is staying on? If so I am really aggravated the pool company that converted our chlorine system did not connect it properly (back in 2005!). I use a different pool company now but I'll contact my own electrician to make the fix, what should I tell him exactly? I'm attaching a pic of the wire connections. Our pump is a Hayward if that matters. Thanks so much for your help!! Ann