Swimclear filter housing won’t stop leaking

[djdonte]

It’s always been a bit touchy. The clamp needs to be tapped here and there as you tighten it but this time I can’t get it to stop leaking. It recently froze, although I left the pump running 24/7, I found it leaking after and I can’t get it to stop. I cleaned everything up and re-lubed the o ring. I can’t find any damage to the housing. The clamp has flaking paint but it’s not damaged either. Should I just try a new o ring? It’s one of those big ones with metal in the middle.

 

[HermanTX]

If you have disassembled it, cleaned the seal ring to remove debris, ensured there were no cuts in it, lubed the seal ring and tighten ring per procedure, then you have done all the correct steps.
Maybe @1poolman1 has specific ideas.

 

[djdonte]

What is the tightening procedure? I don’t use a torque wrench or anything.

 

[1poolman1]

It’s always been a bit touchy. The clamp needs to be tapped here and there as you tighten it but this time I can’t get it to stop leaking. It recently froze, although I left the pump running 24/7, I found it leaking after and I can’t get it to stop. I cleaned everything up and re-lubed the o ring. I can’t find any damage to the housing. The clamp has flaking paint but it’s not damaged either. Should I just try a new o ring? It’s one of those big ones with metal in the middle.

Likely need a new O ring, but you can take the existing one and place it in the shower or bath with hot water and the rubber may soften and return to a better shape. If it is very old, it may not be reusable and new is the best option.
Using a 9/16" wrench the clamp is tightened until the coils on the spring touch. Hayward says 150 inch-lbs. torque, but most people don't have an inch-pound torque wrench. (12.5 ft.-lbs.)

 

[djdonte]

Hmm mine has no spring, and the bolt is 7/8” not 9/16”. I do have both in/lbs and ft/pounds wrenches.

 

[1poolman1]

Hmm mine has no spring, and the bolt is 7/8” not 9/16”. I do have both in/lbs and ft/pounds wrenches.

Interesting. This excerpt from the manual says they are 3/4" but things in the pool business often change before the manuals catch up.
BODY AND CLAMP RE-ASSEMBLY1. Place the metal reinforced seal on lower filter body. (Fig 4) Place upper filter body on metal reinforced seal and lower filter body in a position which allows all operation and safety labels to be clearly visible and the upper filter body to be centered on the lower filter body. Press down firmly and evenly on the upper filter body to seat the seal. (Fig 7)2. Replace the filter clamp around the upper and lower filter bodies. Hold the clamp ends to position the clamp on the filter bodies with the clamp ends adjacent to the safety and operation labels on the filter bodies. (Fig 7)3. Insert clamp bolt through the clamp ends and thread the clamp nut onto clamp bolt with rounded end of the nut (Fig 8) towards the ends of the clamp.4. Never rely on hand tightening of clamp nut to clamp bolt. Using a 3/4” socket on a torque wrench, torque clamp nut to clamp bolt to 150 inch-lbs. (Fig 9)

 

[djdonte]

I’m assuming this filter is original which would make it from 1998, so perhaps the manual is current and my filter is old. Either way the o ring is the most logical thing to replace. It left a lot of black stuff on my rag so maybe it’s deteriorated. I will try a torque wrench when I replace it.

 

[djdonte]

I am going to try a new o ring and clamp. My clamp looks pretty bad and a new clamp comes with the o ring.

 

[djdonte]

So I put on a new clamp and metal reinforced o ring and it still drips in the same spot but worse? I suppose I will mark the spot, take it back apart and look for damage or some other kind of anomaly. I was also thinking maybe rotate the top a bit. Any other ideas?

 

[djdonte]

Interesting. This excerpt from the manual says they are 3/4" but things in the pool business often change before the manuals catch up.
BODY AND CLAMP RE-ASSEMBLY1. Place the metal reinforced seal on lower filter body. (Fig 4) Place upper filter body on metal reinforced seal and lower filter body in a position which allows all operation and safety labels to be clearly visible and the upper filter body to be centered on the lower filter body. Press down firmly and evenly on the upper filter body to seat the seal. (Fig 7)2. Replace the filter clamp around the upper and lower filter bodies. Hold the clamp ends to position the clamp on the filter bodies with the clamp ends adjacent to the safety and operation labels on the filter bodies. (Fig 7)3. Insert clamp bolt through the clamp ends and thread the clamp nut onto clamp bolt with rounded end of the nut (Fig 8) towards the ends of the clamp.4. Never rely on hand tightening of clamp nut to clamp bolt. Using a 3/4” socket on a torque wrench, torque clamp nut to clamp bolt to 150 inch-lbs. (Fig 9)

It is 3/4".. not sure what I was thinking. Also 150 in/lbs on a 3/4" bolt is a little tricky as an inch pound torque wrench is 1/4 drive. I have never seen a 1/4 drive 3/4 socket, and once you add the proper adapters there is no way the torque wrench will be accurate.

 

[JamesW]

The filter looks really old.

You should just replace it.

 

[djdonte]

I thought about that, as it’s likely original. I didn’t realize these things were 1500 dollars.

 

[JamesW]

It looks like it is developing some cracks, which makes it unsafe.

 

[JamesW]

I put on a new clamp and metal reinforced o ring

How much did those cost?

 

[djdonte]

220.

 

[JamesW]

Those clamps are expensive.

Where did you get one so cheap?

 

[djdonte]

Open box item on ebay. Came with a new o ring too. The MSRP is over 400 but they seem to be around for 250ish on ebay. I did not see cracks but I'm going to look at it closer after work. Its honestly always been a bit touchy since I moved in 5 years ago. Sometimes you need to rotate it a bit, and also tap the clamp with a rubber mallet as you're tightening it. Perhaps it has given up the ghost though.

 

[JamesW]

 

[djdonte]

I see your viewpoint but that is water running down the side of the shell from the drips coming from the clamp. 99 percent sure those arent cracks but I'll look closer.

 

[Burnet Steve]

It is 3/4".. not sure what I was thinking. Also 150 in/lbs on a 3/4" bolt is a little tricky as an inch pound torque wrench is 1/4 drive. I have never seen a 1/4 drive 3/4 socket, and once you add the proper adapters there is no way the torque wrench will be accurate.

You may have already checked this but I had a similar leak problem last year. Upon close examination the leak was coming from the base of the pressure gauge and water was running down the filter housing top and dripping off of the ring. It looked like the leak was coming from the o-ring but it was actually a cracked pressure gauge problem.