SWG plumbing question

[Wannaknow]

Thank you all for your help and support so far. I apologize that I have been on the road and couldn't provide what you needed. I took a peek and underneath a spiderweb I did see a com jack. It didn't look pristine, so who know if it works. The diagnostics read:
30.8
0.00
63P
-0
AL-5 Note: I could not get it to go any higher than that
r1.47
0
77
I took some photos underneath the display panel. I will try to reduce them and get them posted. I just took them and I didn't have alot of light nor a handy flashlight holder. So I hope they are at least decent enough to tell you all something.

 

[ajw22]

Did you buy this setup new from a retailer or get it used? Is there a story behind the Aquatrol system you got?

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

The Aquarite and AquaTrol mainboards have a 6 pin connector jack pre-installed. However, the conn jack or the "No Flow" feature on the TROL-RJ model is disabled by default via firmware.

@OP, you have a TROL-RJ r1.47 but since the AL setting cannot be change I'd say you have bad pcb.

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

There has been a few reported cases whereby the AL setting can get stuck at AL-5. There is nothing a regular user can or could do to bring it back to AL-7. In other words, the Eeprom data is corrupted. So far, we don't know have any information on how to easily change that other than reprogramming the Eeprom.
The replacement pcb is called GLX-PCB-TROL-RJ. Hope this helps

 

[Wannaknow]

There has been a few reported cases whereby the AL setting can get stuck at AL-5. There is nothing a regular user can or could do to bring it back to AL-7. In other words, the Eeprom data is corrupted. So far, we don't know have any information on how to easily change that other than reprogramming the Eeprom.
The replacement pcb is called GLX-PCB-TROL-RJ. Hope this helps

I can change the settings from AL-1 to AL-5. I just can't go any higher than AL-5.

The story behind the unit...
I bought it and the cell off Facebook Marketplace. I'm always having to make do as I say in my signature "on a beer budget." According to the story I was told by the sellers, they had used it one year and purchased a larger pool, thus, they needed a larger system. I was also told it needed a new timer. They gave me link for a generic timer without plug in bar, but I opted to get a genuine Hayward replacement with plug because I just didn't feel like soldering. Her husband was an electrical engineer, thus the twistlock plug. Our electrician is extremely busy right now, so my work around is a dogbone with a twustlock on one end and a household plug on the other end. We're not finished with the landscaping around the pool yet, so the bonding and grounding was not attached when the photos were taken. The system was just "sorta" hooked on to see if the plumbing parts would work. When I used the pool's return elbow (substitute RJ) I didn't have leaks. But, when I used the chlorinator's RJ, I do have leaks. I received "no flow" with both setups. I saw a tip where someone claimed a Hayward tip was that you could insert the tip of a screwdriver into the com jack (sounds risky, but then I realized, there's not that much juice there) and if you could get the no flow light to go green then it was a bad sensor, if not, then it was a bad PCB board. All I could ever accomplish was to get the no flow light to blink. So, I'm not sure what that means.

 

[Wannaknow]

i hope these photos are clear enough to help. The originals were about 5 mb and I know alot of forums do not like files that big.

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

OP, just know you have an RJ model with the newest software r1.47 and that's great! However, from my past experiences working with the Aquatrol system, I know exactly what you're dealing with. I'd say the Eeprom data on your pcb is corrupted. A known-good RJ pcb is locked at AL-7 in the setting. You can try resurrecting your pcb by reprogramming the Eeprom (93C46B) or replace the mainboard.
The hacked phone jack or inserting a screwdriver into the conn jack will not change anything for you. As mentioned earlier, the "No-Flow" indicator is disabled by default in the RJ and the indicating LED has no function. In your case, it is blinking because the firmware is corrupted and that just makes the system confused.

 

[Wannaknow]

Just out of curiosity, is there a way to obtain original firmware and reload it through the data line? I have data cables here. It would be worth a try before buying a board.

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

Just so you know, working with sw and fw is a risky business and you are on your own on this! Flashing the sw is a piece of cake via J9, provided you have a PICKit programmer. However, the AL, No-Flow and whatnot are stored in the Eeprom (U4, 93C46B). There are other members here who made an attempt to pull the data off the U4 while it is in circuit but not successful. One made an attempt to remove the U4 but destroyed a brand new bd due to insufficient soldering skill.
Neeways, if you are keen in resurrecting your pcb, search for 93C46B and reference the Datasheet. You may have to remove the EEPROM from a known good pcb with sw build r1.47. Get a compatible EEPROM programmer, pull the data and save a copy. OR buy some blank EEPROM, load the data on it and replace the U4 from the old pcb. Again, you are on your own on this and you may void the warranty on the new bd.

 

[Wannaknow]

I am very grateful for that info. If others have tried it and failed, I'm not going that route. I have more faith in their soldering, tech abilities, and patience right now than I do in mine. So, one last thought, what if I added a flow sensor and data cable? Its $40. Do you think the software is so damaged that this is futile? Yes, I'm just trying to hit all the angles before I'm out $300+. Otherwise, I'll have to wait just a bit (convince spouse) to invest in Money Pit #2 (the pool).

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

By all means yes! Perhaps your own flow switch test might yield different results from what we already knew. The Aquarite/AquaTrol flow switch is just a N/O contact and if sufficient flow of water passes thru, the contact closed. No need to spend money on a flow switch! Just use an old tel cord, cut it short closer to the plug, twist together the wires to simulate a closed contact, plug it to the conn jack and test away. I would not recommend the screwdriver trick as it is more likely to bent the pins if not careful. And if you find yourself in the market for a replacement GLX-PCB-TROL-RJ, make sure to get the newest sw r1.47 for reliability.

 

[Wannaknow]

What a brilliant idea! I never even thought about tricking it with a phone cord! Thank you for such a smart idea! Now off to scrounge through my cable collection...

 

[Wannaknow]

Well, I tried the phone cord. I tied red and green together and could only get the light to go green for about 6 seconds. I then tied the other 2 together (which I don't think have any function on an analog phone line) and then I couldn't get the light to go out at all.

 

[Wannaknow]

Well, I see some stores are including the board in their promotions. So, I'll bite the bullet and buy a board. I'll ask for forgiveness later...

 

[ajw22]

Let's get back to the way you hoked up the cell. Do you intend to connect the cell directly to the return hole as the RJ cell is deigned for? If so get the RJ board.

If you want to connect the cell the way you had it then you need to put a flow switch inline with the cell and you should get a HP board.

 

[Wannaknow]

I'm so glad you have experience with this system. This is one of my biggest questions...is there something in the RJ part itself that the sensors pick up? I understand about the chlorinator being the last unit in line and requiring an elbow to herd the gases into the pool. The scientist in me wonders if it has to be a genuine Hayward RJ aquatrol "elbow" or if another generic elbow following the chlorinator would do the same job. Do you have any any insight into this? I'm probably too nosy for my own good!

 

[Wannaknow]

Thank you for the advice regarding the RJ vs. HP board. The more I think about it, I believe the HP configuration may give me a little more flexibility in the install. I could then use the pool's return plumbing and not have leaks (). Would the rest of the board components even notice the different configuration?

 

[ajw22]

The curve of the Hayward supplied elbow on the RJ is shaped to not trap the hydrogen gas and allow it to bubble out without water flow. The danger is when the cell is powered with the pump off and hydrogen gas is being created and trapped in the pipes. Usually the flow switch prevents that from happening. The RJ without the flow switch deals with the hydrogen by the design of the elbow.

The only difference between the RJ and HP boards is if the flow switch logic is enabled or defaulted to on.

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

Unlike the Aquarite, the Aquatrol requires a constant 120Vac and the Power led is always ON. The built-in timer controls the AC power to the external motor pump while the switch controls the chlorine production. If the built-in timer is off, the generating led is off and chlorine production is halted..
What Allen described above is the safety feature of the RJ model in the event the pump failed to run when it should.

 

[JamesW]