I understood from most things that I’ve read it was better to have the pump come on in advance of the SWG. But you’re saying this set up will be good to go?
SWG install tomorrow
- Thread starter Tracey R
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 54,168
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I don't know where you read that and the context it was said.
The SWG will start soon after the pump starts once the SWG flow switch is closed by the water flow.
I haven’t gotten my CYA high enough yet. Can I still turn on the SWG today? As I’m adding CYA?
Flying Tivo
TFP Guide
- Jan 24, 2017
- 2,997
- Pool Size
- 7500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
The only thing I see as missing are the little triggers that tell the timer to switch "on" and "off". I don't know the official name of 'em but Skippy says he calls them dammits cause that's what you say when one is missing. (He said the name is the same as the the little pin back on his military uniform pins and medals). Do you know what I'm talking about? Ours actually are marked "on" and "off".
Maddie
Maddie
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That was for a different type of pump situation where the pump has its own timer. Yours does not have that.
I have those but haven't installed yet. No reason to. Nothing is using itThe only thing I see as missing are the little dammits that tell the timer to switch "on" and "off". I don't know the official name of 'em but Skippy says he calls them dammits cause that's what you say when one is missing. (He said the name is the same as the the little pin back on his military uniform pins and medals). Do you know what I'm talking about? Ours actually are marked "on" and "off".
Maddie
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
Yes.. that is how I have mine setup... the little "dammits" (I like that term) allow the timer to turn it on and off for you on a schedule
Here goes nothing. It’s all hard wired to the timer. Pool pump & SWG on. More cya being dissolved in the pool.
Timer is set for 5 hours during the day & 5 at night for the “pool closed” months we have.
Now all I have to do is test & find the sweet spot on FC using the SWG and maintain PH & TA?
Timer is set for 5 hours during the day & 5 at night for the “pool closed” months we have.
Now all I have to do is test & find the sweet spot on FC using the SWG and maintain PH & TA?
The on /off clamps on the timer are called trippers. Secondly I'm not sure you need that many run time hours in the pool off season. Find your target and figure out the minimum you want to run the pump and adjust the % till you hit the FC target your aiming for.
Really?! That seems to me like very minimal already although I’ve always had it running 24/7 prior to now. It’s strange to look out & not see the water circulating.
I kinda like the nick name above but Ik it’s good to know the true name. Thank you.
Also I read if the water gets below 65 degrees I should not use the SWG. Does anyone have any idea why? Do I turn off the unit or will it just not kick on? The instruction book didn’t say.
Do I just decide a minimum # of hours per day to run the pump/SWG? Or will I find this information on the TFP site somewhere?
I kinda like the nick name above but Ik it’s good to know the true name. Thank you.
Also I read if the water gets below 65 degrees I should not use the SWG. Does anyone have any idea why? Do I turn off the unit or will it just not kick on? The instruction book didn’t say.
Do I just decide a minimum # of hours per day to run the pump/SWG? Or will I find this information on the TFP site somewhere?
The way to do it is as follows. Pick a #of run hours you're comfortable with and dial 70%. Run 2 days and check the FC. If it went above the target, you can dial it down percentage wise or you can reduce pump run time. It's a ratio between the pump run hours and the target you're striving for. The water does not care how you get there. It can be more pump time/less % or a higher %/and less pump time.
Just confirmed my manual does say "will not produce below 65°. Not sure how winter mode works. Call circupool for that explanation.
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mguzzy
Gold Supporter
Tracey.. I'm not sure what your winters are like. Around here when the temp drops low enough so that the SWG isn't producing I'm not seeing a whole lot of bio activity in the pool anyway. So I revert to occasional LC doses and I just run my pumps for a few hours on the weekends just to mix things around. If I don't run the pumps for a little while so it does a little mixing then I get a big thermocline and all the LC just sits on the bottom. The challenge for me is to start upping the FC as things start to get active in early spring. Anyway you'll adapt to your winters.
In the meantime.. yes, play with your SWG output versus runtime. The Pool Math app has a nice feature for calculating how much FC your SWG will create given particular runtime and for your size pool.
In the meantime.. yes, play with your SWG output versus runtime. The Pool Math app has a nice feature for calculating how much FC your SWG will create given particular runtime and for your size pool.
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Flying Tivo
TFP Guide
- Jan 24, 2017
- 2,997
- Pool Size
- 7500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I like running the cel at 100% and then only play with pump run time. Both ways works. As of today im running 3 hrs.
@Flying Tivo - you only run your pool 3hours a day?! I guess I’ll have to drastically adjust my thoughts on “stagnant” water. Ik - that’s not the same as a pool but that’s where my brain goes to. And you’ve had no issues with algae? I’m learning in an all new ball park now with the SWG. Just as I’d gotten a handle on the non SWG way.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 54,168
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Please read...
Determine Pump Run Time
To figure out how many hours you need to run your pump, you need to know how fast your pump works. You can find this here.
www.troublefreepool.com
@mguzzy - what is a thermocline?
Usually in Jan-Feb we have a few weeks of deep freezes (for south TX deep freezes- we’re not set up like up north) so I expect I’ll run the pump 24/7 during those times bc I don’t want any plumbing to break. I’d rather pay for electricity than do more repairs.
Usually in Jan-Feb we have a few weeks of deep freezes (for south TX deep freezes- we’re not set up like up north) so I expect I’ll run the pump 24/7 during those times bc I don’t want any plumbing to break. I’d rather pay for electricity than do more repairs.