swg freaks out in winter

[ThomsPool]

Swg runs well in summer at low speed RPM on variable speed pump is at fourteen hundred and fifty RPM but in December I notice no flow light is red I increase pump speed 50 rpm I get green light a week later no flow light red I increase another 50 rpm this continues every few days until I am at 1900 RPM today my swg is in that startup cycle flashing red green this does it for about a minute while it initializes but it's one hour later and still flashing. I turn off generator then back on all is good now but no flow light still red this happens every December.

I often think the filter needs cleaning I know the filter is clean but I clean it again anyway takes me about 10 minutes turn everything back on all is good swg initializes and I have flow at 1800 RPM I'm sure in a few days or even tomorrow the same thing will happen again.
What are your thoughts on why this is happening. cold water? the temp of pool is at 61

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Please update your signature line with your pool specs and equipment. It helps the moderators and experts to help you when we know what type of pool and equipment you have.

I don't have any "flow" issues during winter so my guess is it is not the SWG but something else, perhaps your filter is undersized relative to the pump/pool needs. It's not uncommon at all for pools to be built with filters that are not properly spec'd.

As for the SWG, there's really no point in running one over the winter months and you can easily switch over to manual bleach chlorination while the water temps are lower than 60F because algae growth is almost non-extent. As well, most SWG's do not efficiently generate chlorine when the water temperature is below 60F and many models have a cold water cutoff at < 56F. My SWG has not run for over a month now due to cold water. Yesterday I added 48oz of 8.25% bleach for the very first time to get my FC up to 5ppm from 3ppm. It will likely be another month before I add bleach again. Last year I used, maybe, 3 gallons of bleach all winter long.

My suggestion would be to simply pull the cell and inspect it. Make sure it is clean and scale free and then disable the SWG for the winter (either physically disconnect it or disable it through your automation panel). Assuming your water is clean and clear, you won't be in any danger switching over to bleach for a few months.

Since you are new, you should check out our Pool School and look at the method we teach. We teach pool owners to do their own water testing and to dose and balance their water based on the recommended levels we have posted in our Pool School. By doing the water testing yourself and learning how to care for your pool, you get away from lousy pool store testing and the chemical roller-coaster associated with their lackluster advice.

Welcome to TFP

 

[ThomsPool]

13.5k salt h20
150 filter
Vs pump
Ic40 swg
All Pentair
I use the test kit recommended by this forum
My fc is 2.5
PH 7.6
Salt 3000+-100
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This swg has been replaced 4 times in three years. This past week I have increased the rpm each day to change the flow light from red to green. Now it will no longer go green and the initialization lights will continuously flash. I have acid washed it and cleaned the filter. No effect. Even while pump is at high speeds the flow light will not change to green. I have found situations on the net of others having the same problem.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Is the cell installed in the correct orientation? There is a specific direction.

Is there a minimum 12" of straight pipe run after any 90 deg PVC elbow before the SWG?

Is the flow sensor (looks like a little magnet on a metal/plastic tab) still attached?


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[Jimrahbe]

Thom,

I recently had the same situation and found that the flow switch had completely broken off. It is basically a thin piece of metal with a magnet on the end.

Replace it with this... http://www.poolguysupply.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_55_106&products_id=867&gclid=CMOryNXtntECFYkCaQod0ccCnw

And it has been working fine ever since.

Jim R.

 

[ThomsPool]

It is in the right direction. There is just 12" in front of the elbow. I can re- locate it with no problem. As for the replacement flow/temp sensor. It is in tact. Magnet n all. I have been looking at the same product but before I get it I wanted to hear from someone else that had the same conditions and I see that u have. This product is an aftermarket type. I have no problem with it. Its just a magnetic switch. I wish I knew which 2 of the 4 wires closes the switch loop. I would bypass it to test. I bet the fellas at poolguysupply would know. Its most likely a closed loop switch.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Has Pentair sent a rep to come look at this? Four failed cells in the span of 3 years is a huge equipment failure rate and speaks to a possible problem with the setup. If it were me, I'd be escalating this with Pentair and request they send a regional rep to come look at it all.


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[JamesW]

The Red and black wires go to the flow switch. Green and white go to the temperature sensor.

When the switch closes, it creates a closed loop.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Thom,

Reading this... http://dolphinpool.com/pdf/Pentair-IntelliChlor-Flow-Switch-Replacement-Kit-Install.pdf

makes it seem that the Red/Black is the flow switch and the Green/White is the temp sensor...

Jim R.

 

[ThomsPool]

Sure looks like it. I sent message about the switch pin outs to optimum pool. They made the aftermarket part. I will also place a call to Pentair. FYI. I have since run into countless reviews of users having cells that are constantly failing.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Thom,

Pentair makes thousands of SWCGs and most people only do reviews when things go bad, so it is really hard to tell what the actual failure rate is based on only half a story.

Also, many of the reported cell problems are really caused by the end user, or chemical issues, and not really a SWCG failure.

A SWCG system is certainly not perfect, but it sure beats manually adding chlorine..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[ThomsPool]

Thank you for the pinouts. The company that manufactured the aftermarket part "Optimum" also confirmed black and red.
I place the jumper between the two wires turned on the system and it worked fine all green lights

 

[JamesW]

Don't leave the jumper on as it could cause an explosion if the cell runs without flow.

Looks like you need a new flow switch.

Make sure that the switch is properly lined up with the water flow. Arrow on switch.

 

[ThomsPool]

Yes. I have it on a micro switch. Pump speed increased. Ordering the flow switch today.

 

[ThomsPool]

Want to mention this.
I put the sensor on a switch so i could simulate the pool starting up and after the pump settled into its normal speed i flipped the switch. Nothing happened. I then held the "MORE" button for 3 Seconds, it went into this mode where all the lights flash, (I believe it allows for some manual adjustment) instead i just let it resume on its own (5 more seconds) and then it returned to normal and the flow light turned green again.