SWG causing Control system overheating

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red-beard

red-beard

Gold Supporter
May 27, 2019
1,621
Houston, TX
Pool Size
25000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite Pro (T-15)
One of my neighbors has a 12,000ish pool with a Hayward SWG & Hayward controls. He lurks here, but I don't know if he has an account...

Anyway, he has been having terrible issues this year with his control system, shutting. When he opens the panel, it is HOT. The power transformer was extremely warm. I have similar controls and my transformer is 115F. His was around 200F. We swapped out the transformer, still having issues.

I suggested he pull the SWG cable out of the controls. Sure enough, after several hours, only 115 F. So the SWG seems to be pulling a LOT of current. I am NOT a SWG guy, but I've read a lot of articles on them (I'm considering going Salt Water).

Do you think he needs to clean his salt cell? Or d you think the salt cell is going bad? I think he's had replaced the cell 2 years ago. I expect it is the smallest cell, but who knows. All of his equipment was over sized (3 HP Single Speed pump, now replaced with an Ecostar!).

Any ideas?

Related question: If he has to replace the SWG, are there any decent aftermarket units? I read around on here that Blue Works does not last.
 
More information....

He is using the larger 40K gallon Hayward SWG and has it programmed at 80%!!! It now sounds like he swapped cells and replaced with the larger cell. He is presently cleaning the SWG with diluted HCl.

I think he needs to reduce to a lower SWG setting and run his system longer. He not a "testing" guy. I've basically told him that he will need a test kit and to run his system and test multiple times a day.

Where is the link for test kit?

It sounds like many of the people here run 24/7 with the SWG on 20-30%.
 
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that’s like stepping on the accelerator and closing your eyes and hoping you get to,the right place. 99.99% you won’t. each chlorinator will generate different amounts of chlorine based on size, age of cell, % setting, and runtime. Without initial daily checks when Setting the system up and then weekly to ensure all is good, he’s Shooting in the dark. As an fyi I run our 40k rated swg 10hrs a day at 70% and it keeps my pool perfect at 6ppm FC. As the weather cools, I’ll have to reduce % as it will overchlorinate if I don’t.
 
red-beard said:
More information....

He is using the larger 40K gallon Hayward SWG and has it programmed at 80%!!! It now sounds like he swapped cells and replaced with the larger cell. He is presently cleaning the SWG with diluted HCl.

I think he needs to reduce to a lower SWG setting and run his system longer. He not a "testing" guy. I've basically told him that he will need a test kit and to run his system and test multiple times a day.

Where is the link for test kit?

It sounds like many of the people here run 24/7 with the SWG on 20-30%.
Click to expand...
So, if he put a bigger cell on the same controller, did he change the controller settings to accommodate that?

Get your friend to join and post directly.. this is maddening. You shouldn't have to be the go between!

Everyone has different runtime based on their pool and equipment . There is no magic one size fits all setting
 
He has reduced the SWG output to 30%, and the overheating issue has gone away...

Now he needs start testing and adjusting.

Thanks for listening
 
Yep. And it died again. He's pretty fed up. I suggested he pull the cable and use bleach until it can be figured out.
 

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I think I need a can of the circuit freeze stuff and see if there are some bad solder joints on the board.

The only picture I have of the Control Board is of the transformer. The SWG cord is not burned, no the socket.

His "fix" is to run the system with the door open and the control display removed. If the control display is left in, it over-heats. If he closes the door, it over heats. Really though reducing the SWG output was going to help.
 
Thanks to my "neighbor" for starting this thread. Here are the details.

I have Hayward Aqualogic control system connected to a Hayward Ecostar 3400 variable speed pump. The system uses the board: Hayward Goldline Pro Logic Main Circuit Board GLX-PCB-PRO. I had to replace the board about two years ago. I have a Hayward T-15 cell and have had the 40K cell since we installed the pool.

Over the past 10 months I have been getting various error messages in the control system and on the pump and I am not able to diagnose the problem. I believe the errors are related to the transformer/board overheating. I get the following error messages:

On control system: "Pool Bridge Comm" and /or "Communication Err Call 1-888-921-7665"

On the variable speed pump: "Remote Control Off Low Link Quality".

I believe that the errors are related to the board/transformer getting too hot. The reason I say this is that if I have the front panel off, cabinet door open and display sitting on top of the panel, I get no errors; . But, when the Houston temps get up in the high nineties, I again get this error message. When the display is mounted on board, or the cabinet door is closed, I always get the error within a couple hours.

When I get the error, the control system separates from the VSP. If I reset the breakers and wait a little while, the control system goes back to normal until it presumably heats back up and the errors resume.

I just replaced the transformer and it did not solve the problem.

I will, with the help of Redbeard, test the voltage on the transformer.

Here are some pics of the board (note the panel is off and door is open (reluctantly!)20200724_201122.jpg20200724_201128.jpg20200724_201142.jpg20200724_201148.jpg
 

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Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.

When the new numbers appear, see what they are.

Then, press + again and note the new readings.
 

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