So, being new to having a pool...is this normal and is simply washing it away with water acceptable? I've read that using muratic acid and water will decrease the life of the SWG and I don't want to do that.
SWG build up normal?
- Thread starter ajup2it
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,522
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Try to wash it out with a strong stream of water.
You should not be getting that build up. Your Poolmath data implies you are staying near 0 to negative on CSI. Watch your TA levels. That seems to increase scale on my IC. Though it should be cleaning itself at Polarity reversals. Are you getting scale flakes in the pool?
You should not be getting that build up. Your Poolmath data implies you are staying near 0 to negative on CSI. Watch your TA levels. That seems to increase scale on my IC. Though it should be cleaning itself at Polarity reversals. Are you getting scale flakes in the pool?
Yes I do have flakes in the pool something fierce. I recently did what you said and washed it out but it builds up again quickly. As a side note, I struggle to get my TA at 90 or below due to the fill water TA being so high. I've had it at 80 lately during these photos.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,522
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I would check your test results of CH and TA. The reaction you are getting implies those data points are higher than you are seeing.
How much do you run the SWCG? Run time and % generation.
How much do you run the SWCG? Run time and % generation.
Presently I run my SWG 24/7 and usually at 40% until its 90 degrees here or higher and then I bump it to 60% so my FC doesn't drop too low. If it gets to 5 or below then I am at risk to having mustard algae growing behind my light niche. I have to open it up every 10 days or so to clean it out from any weird growth. I'm using the TF100 test kit, all new reagents.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,522
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I leave it open all day since I'm home. Maybe I should leave it closed more?
or maybe my SWG is failing? I did turn it up to 60% last night and still lost a bit of FC over night. I've recently scrubbed/vacuumed and checked the light niche for algae and until today my FC hasn't dropped like this.
Ok, today the FC came back up so I backed off of the SWG output from 100% overnight to 60%. The pool is open and we have full sun, hot day. At least my SWG is producing chlorine still. That question is solved. TA is 80, CH is 450-500 depending on when you determine it went from red to "blue" which never looks blue really. Its more of a purple-blue? Either way my CH is high it seems which I figure is what is contributing to the build up on the SWG? I'm aerating my pool to get the 7.2 pH up a bit, in an attempt to get the TA down from 80 (that's an ongoing struggle since my fill water TA is 200 last I checked). Maybe Indiana isn't a good place to have a pool. 
- May 3, 2014
- 58,522
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
For your next CH test.
The sample may turn purple during the test, or go to blue for a moment and then turn back to red/pink. This is called a “fading endpoint” and is caused by interference from metal ions. If this happens, do the test again, but this time add five drops of R-0012 before adding any R-0010 or R-0011L (I use 5 drops of this). Remember to count the initial five drops in the total.
In extreme cases, a fading endpoint may occur even when adding five drops of R-0012 at the start. If that happens, mix pool water with an equal quantity of distilled water, test that, and then multiply the result by two.
The sample may turn purple during the test, or go to blue for a moment and then turn back to red/pink. This is called a “fading endpoint” and is caused by interference from metal ions. If this happens, do the test again, but this time add five drops of R-0012 before adding any R-0010 or R-0011L (I use 5 drops of this). Remember to count the initial five drops in the total.
In extreme cases, a fading endpoint may occur even when adding five drops of R-0012 at the start. If that happens, mix pool water with an equal quantity of distilled water, test that, and then multiply the result by two.
I tried what you suggested. I believe my CH is still around 450. My definition of blue and the color this test displays still makes me question it but I stopped my count at 18 then added more drops to see if it would become more blue and it didn't seem to get bluer.
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