SWG bad readings and no chlorine

[Thomas89]

Hi All,

I have a t-15 40,000 gallon cell. I just slammed last week and pool is crystal clear and overnight chlorine test passed.

Went out of town for the weekend and tested my chlorine tonight.
Fc and CC was 0, I tested the salt and got 5400 . I added a couple bags prior to leaving as my check salt light was on my swg.

My cell readings are

0
86
31.3
0.00
89p
-0
Al-0
R1.40

Any advice as to what's going on and if my cell is dead?

Thanks

 

[RJ-45]

Below is borrowed from JamesW (Just want to give credit here)

For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Switching the unit off and then back on makes the unit reverse polarity.

Report all readings.

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

What is the T-cell size?

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?

To get the performance percentage of the cell in each polarity, divide the instant salinity reading in each polarity by the actual salinity reading.

For example, if the instant reading is 3,300 ppm and the actual salinity reading is 3,300 ppm, then the salt cell is working at 100%.

However, if the actual salinity was 3,800 ppm, then the performance percentage is 86.8%.

Anything over 75% is acceptable.

At75%, or lower, in either polarity, it's time to consider replacing the cell.

The instant salinity in both polarities should be about the same (+/- about 200 ppm).

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.

 

[Thomas89]

Below is borrowed from JamesW (Just want to give credit here)

For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Switching the unit off and then back on makes the unit reverse polarity.

Report all readings.

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

What is the T-cell size?

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?

To get the performance percentage of the cell in each polarity, divide the instant salinity reading in each polarity by the actual salinity reading.

For example, if the instant reading is 3,300 ppm and the actual salinity reading is 3,300 ppm, then the salt cell is working at 100%.

However, if the actual salinity was 3,800 ppm, then the performance percentage is 86.8%.

Anything over 75% is acceptable.

At75%, or lower, in either polarity, it's time to consider replacing the cell.

The instant salinity in both polarities should be about the same (+/- about 200 ppm).

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.

Below are three readings I took this morning per your comments. Switching from Auto to Off did not materially differ the readings.

0, 0, 0
81, 82, 82
32.1, 30.6, 30.6
0.00, 0.03, 0.08
89P, 89P, 89P
-0, -0, -0
AL-0, AL-0, AL-0
r1.40, r1.40, r1.40

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
Cell - 8327993, Box - 5A06041
What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
5,400 using the K-1766 test kit
What is the T-cell size?
40,000 gallon cell

 

[Thomas89]

After more research I have a Green and Clean T-15 Extended 40,000 salt cell. I don't think they manufacture these anymore as I can only find them on Ebay.

Seems to be a cheaper option for salt cells. Will be going to the pool store to get tested to verify if it's dead or not.

 

[mknauss]

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Not sure if you had reviewed the wiki article.

 

[Thomas89]

I took the board off to check for any burn marks. Nothing noticeable to the eye.

Any other suggestions on why I'm getting 0 amps and salt readings?

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

Thank you for the pics. The diagnostic readings suggested that the Thermistor is good. Next time, focus the camera on the K1 & K2 relay solder pads and solder side of the T-Cell connector.
How are you testing the actual salt level? Hayward recommends 2700-3400 ppm and 5400ppm is too high.
Please run the diagnostics 10 seconds after the "Generating" LED turned on or right after you hear the relay clicked. You only have 50 seconds before the controller sense fault, if any. If the Amps or salinity reading is "0", disconnect the T-cell and measure the DC Voltage across side A and B as illustrated in the "Troubleshooting the Main Board" section in the below link. Again, measure the voltage right after you hear the relay clicked and report back.

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com