Swamp to Blue but Cloudy

Jump to latest Follow Reply
D

Deajavu1425

0
Jul 9, 2017
35
Toms River, New Jersey
After months of working with Leslie's, mega chemicals, they finally told my husband they didn't know what else to do. So, I started searching the web and found your wonderful site. My husband had already change the water 1 foot at a time because we have a high water table and our CYA was over 125. I had him clean the sand filter like you showed with pictures. He then added 8 lbs of shock three days in a row. Each day the pool got lighter and lighter and finally blue but
Cloudy. We now can see the paramount in the low end. I still have a lot to learn especially the pool math. We are stumped on how to get it sparkling clear like we are use to have it.
The reading as of Aug 2nd with our test kit are and test strip are:

PH - 7.2
ALK - 90
FC- 10+
TC - 10+

7 way test strip
PH - 7.0
ALK - 50
CYA - 30-50
FC - 10+
TC - 10+

Aug 3rd test kit

PH - 7.2
ALK - 80
FC - 10+
TC - 10+

7 wat test strip

PH 7.0
ALK - 40-80
CYA - 50-100
FC - 10
TC - 10

I gave you the 2 days because I tried to send yesterday, but it went somewhere. Any help you can give us, we would really appreciate it. I will update today's reading after my husband does it. Thank you. Lorraine

 
Welcome to the forum! Lots of folks with Cloudy pools show up here -----

You are trying, but until you are able to accurately do your own water chemistry testing it will be doubtful to be successful. We recommend one of two test kits, TF100 from TFTestkits.net (I use that ) or the Taylor K2006C. You need a FAS-DPD test to measure FC above 10 ppm.

You did a great job at getting your CYA down, we hope. Test strips are called 'guess' strips here. So once you get your new test kit, you can post up a full suite of results that you did yourself and we can provide guidance and work with you on a plan forward.

You also need to stop adding all forms of solid chlorine now. Switch to Liquid Chlorine or Bleach. Until you get your test kit add 2 gallons of 8.25% plain, unscented, non splashless bleach (like Great Value from Walmart) to your pool each day.

Come back with questions -- others will post up soon too -- take care.
 
Hi, We just received our TF100 test today. 3 days ago our pool started turning so green so my husband put in 8lbs of shock, Tuesday and Wed. night. It's getting a little lighter but still green. Tonight he will put in another 8 lbs shock.
He just did the test and here are the results:

The blue plastic box (K-1000) Chlorine and ph test - Chlorine was a burnt orange color
PH - 7.5
CYA - 95
FC - 25
CC - 0
TC - 25
CAL. Hard - 375
ALK - yellow

I tried to do the pool math but still cannot figure it out. Our pool is a Grecian style that goes from 4 ft and slopes down to 8 or 9 ft. Thanks again for all your help. I will be changing our signature about this test kit. Lorraine
 
Did you read post #2? With the powdered shock you are adding you now need to drain at least 50% of your water. CYA of 95 is essentially 100. Best to do a dilute test - see Step 8 Pool School - CYA


PoolMath - Pool School - PoolMath

You have a vinyl liner pool so you can only drain to the point of leaving 1' of water in your pool. That might be enough to get your CYA down to a reasonable level.

Let us know when you decide to drain your pool and lower your CYA.

Take care.
 
Hi, My husband is going to start to drain the pool tomorrow. We can only do 1ft at a time then refill. We have a very high water table. If we do more than that our walls will collapse. We had to have a special pump put in when we had the pool put in. When we put in a new vinyl liner the pool person had a special pump he hooked up to what we have, but we don't have one. We would have to hire someone to do this. It will take a couple of days to empty 50% of the water.
What do we do while this is happening (as far as chemicals). My husband wants to know what happens to the CYA during the winter? Thanks again for your help. I didn't find post # 2 you referred. I'm still finding my way around. Lorraine
 
Post #2 of this thread. Look at the post right after the one you started this thread with.

To change the water you can try a different method that does not require you to lower your water level at all.

Place a small sump pump in the deep end. Measure its output (fill a 5 gal bucket and see how long it takes to fill)

Do you have a skimmer in the shallow end? If so, place a hose in the skimmer after measuring the same flow rate out of the hose that you got from the sump pump. Try to keep it under 10 gpm.

You will run the hose in the skimmer at the same time you are pumping the water out with the sump pump. Since you know the rate (say 10gpm) run it long enough to exchange 50 or 60% of the water.

You should be good using this.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Take care.
 
Deajavu1425 said:
Do be still put in you 2 gallons of bleach in every day. Thanks. Lorraine
Click to expand...
Now that you have your test kit you can move forward. After your water exchange, run a full suite of tests and post them. We can then work with you on a plan to move forward. It will still involve a SLAM, but a much easier one.

Take care.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Do not run the pool pump!

What you are doing is using the difference in the water densities (due to CYA, salt, calcium, etc) to have the new water ride on top of the old pool water. So this needs to be a gentle, slow, process.
 
A couple hours. You can use your brush to move the water around also to get a more complete mix.

Good luck!
 
Great.

Lower your pH to 7.2 with muriatic acid.

Then SLAM Process. Your shock FC for the SLAM is 24 ppm. When you start the SLAM try to have complete day or two to dedicate to it and test/dose with chlorine every couple hours during the day.

Good job --- and good luck!
 
Thank you. I have a few questions. Do I use the Pool math to find out about how much muriatic acid should we should put in. DO we spread it out over the pool or at deep end of pool. Never use it before. Also, how many gallons of bleach do we start to put in every hour or two for the SLAM. This is so new to us. I'm trying to break it down, a little at a time because he is gets very confused with all this new way of doing it. Thanks for your patients. Lorraine
 
Yes use pool Mass to calculate your muriatic acid and bleach additions. Both should be added by slowly pouring in front of a return jet in the deep end of the pool. But of course not the same time as that can be bad.

For the slam process you test your FC enter that into the now column in PoolMath put your shock level FC in as the Target and it will tell you how much bleach you need to add to reach that Target.
 
Use Pool Math for the amounts.

When you add muriatic acid, pour it slowly in the area of the return in your pool. Pour it slowly. Measure if you need to but be sure to pour it into your measuring cup over the pool. Stay as close to the pool surface as you can. Be upwind so the fumes blow away from you. I use eye protection.

Bleach you add as necessary using PoolMath based on your test FC and your target.

Take care.
 
30 minutes between them with the pump on.

They do not play nice together. So do not get them even close together.

Take care.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply