Supplier recommendation needed
- Thread starter pauloharris
- Start date
- Dec 13, 2020
- 762
- Pool Size
- 19600
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
I don't see any charring other than the connector. Inspect the other side of the board once it's removed. If okay and you are handy, you can try fixing it.
You'd want to unsolder the burnt connector, get somebody else's 12-pin in-line connector (it will be hard to find an exact replacement), wire that to the board, and splice the other side to the cable.
Before plunking down $25 or so for the connector, you could do a splice to see if it's worthwhile. Or you could skip the connector and keep the splice forever. Your call.
If you want to go ahead with a board replacement, my manual has part number as R0467600. I can't recommend a specific source, but will say clone electronics are usually not worth the trouble. Go for an OEM part. The one listed on Amazon seems real, but counterfeits exist.
Disclaimer... Although I'm an EE and amateur electronics tech, I don't know this system well. I own one, but - knock on wood - it has been fine so far.
You'd want to unsolder the burnt connector, get somebody else's 12-pin in-line connector (it will be hard to find an exact replacement), wire that to the board, and splice the other side to the cable.
Before plunking down $25 or so for the connector, you could do a splice to see if it's worthwhile. Or you could skip the connector and keep the splice forever. Your call.
If you want to go ahead with a board replacement, my manual has part number as R0467600. I can't recommend a specific source, but will say clone electronics are usually not worth the trouble. Go for an OEM part. The one listed on Amazon seems real, but counterfeits exist.
Disclaimer... Although I'm an EE and amateur electronics tech, I don't know this system well. I own one, but - knock on wood - it has been fine so far.
- May 23, 2015
- 24,472
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
@ogdento might have some suggestions.
That’s a standard problem with the Jandy cells and board. That pin handles way too much current, it gets hot and corroded which makes the connection worse and then it burns up the board. It’s a run-away train situation that they should fix with a better connector and larger gauge wiring. But they’ll never fix the underlying design flaws, they just prefer to sell replacements with very expensive dealer-only repair services.
That’s a standard problem with the Jandy cells and board. That pin handles way too much current, it gets hot and corroded which makes the connection worse and then it burns up the board. It’s a run-away train situation that they should fix with a better connector and larger gauge wiring. But they’ll never fix the underlying design flaws, they just prefer to sell replacements with very expensive dealer-only repair services.
I never looked up the part number for the connector, but one of the other threads might have mentioned it... if not, Molex or Amp (amphenol) are probably good starting points.
BUT - as Gene said - you're better off splicing it in (or do what @Dirk and others have done and solder it on), because even you find the right connector you likely won't have the right (and very expensive) crimper to make a good connection.
The cheapo "Amazon-special" crimpers are fine for basic stuff but - and as Matt points out - these are high-current connections, so a good crimp with the proper manufacturer spec'd tool is important
BUT - as Gene said - you're better off splicing it in (or do what @Dirk and others have done and solder it on), because even you find the right connector you likely won't have the right (and very expensive) crimper to make a good connection.
The cheapo "Amazon-special" crimpers are fine for basic stuff but - and as Matt points out - these are high-current connections, so a good crimp with the proper manufacturer spec'd tool is important
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