So, i will try to make this as short as possible. New pool, filled with well water (used a rv inline filter on hose). Sparkly beautiful water. Tested it-zero on the levels. Added a bag of shock and instantly turned green. Went to pool store and got metal remover after battling it for 3 days. Used it. Back to beautiful. Then had to get all the levels up. Did that, then it rained, and the water became a little cloudy. Shocked it and still no change. (Vacuum & filter change often) had water tested at pool store phosphates were 8000+ppb. Bought Lo-phos. Used as directed.. water went to worse wbfore starting to clear to some…retested:4500... Did Another dose Rained/stormed a lot retested:7600. Repeat. Been in this cycle and cant get them below 3000. Been fighting this almost 2 months now. Live in country, farmland & trees nearby. Any advice?? All levels are good now-except high phosphate… and it’s a little cloudy. Now they say just do weekly pool juice phosphate treatment… still high.. was 4700 last. When it rains it’s worse. I’m stuck in groundhog day! Help?!
Super high phosphates and cloudy water
- Thread starter mama2
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,396
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Pool stores sell you metal sequestrant which is HEDP based and adds phosphates to your water.
Then they test for phosphates and sell you phosphate remover.
If you maintain adequate chlorine levels then phosphate levels do not matter.
We recommend you stay out of the Pool Stores.
www.troublefreepool.com
www.troublefreepool.com
www.troublefreepool.com
Then they test for phosphates and sell you phosphate remover.
If you maintain adequate chlorine levels then phosphate levels do not matter.
We recommend you stay out of the Pool Stores.
Sequestrant - Further Reading
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Phosphate Removers - Further Reading
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I understand that… but there is still pieces of white flakes and a gray slime in the filters coming thru…is that not still phosphates?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,396
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Likely, it is, and is expected. Keep filtering 24/7 and watch the filter pressure. It is going to take some time to get the resultant phosphate compounds out of your water and your filter will clog quickly and frequently. Keep your chlorine values up. Some disagree, but I manage phosphates and I believe it has saved me money and aggravation on required sanitation tasks. You may find that you do not have a natural phosphate problem. (At any rate, 8000+ ppb is not normal unless you live next to a dusty fertilizer plant.)
A glaring omission in your original post is the lack of justification for dumping "stuff" into the pool without test results. I highly recommend purchasing a Taylor K-2006C test kit, reading how to properly do the tests, and then doing and recording the tests. Then post those test results. Pool store test results are notoriously doubtful in accuracy and intent. A phosphates test kit may be in order, but for now, just getting the pool balanced and sanitized is job #1.
PS
Future Note: If you test for and find high phosphates, you can do a lot better than LoPhos.
I was trying to keep the post as short as possible. I’ve tested the water many many times both myself and the pool store. I will try to post my results today or tomorrow. I’m not at home, and it is supposed to be raining later today and tomorrow.
What would you treat phosphates with?
- May 3, 2014
- 62,717
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,396
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Orenda or Seaklear.
PR-10,000 Phosphate Remover | Orenda Products
Orenda PR-10,000 is a powerful, concentrated phosphate remover. It removes phosphates from water. 100% American made, and is NSF®/ANSI-50 Certified.
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www.orendatech.com
Phosphate Remover - SeaKlear
seaklear.com
My personal go-to is Orenda PR-10000. I've found that once you bring the phosphates under 125ppb, that is good for 2-3 years. Your location may dictate otherwise. I'm next to a river, surrounded by a forest, wetlands, and a swamp. Every couple of years works for me. Don't add any phosphate remover until you get your numbers, but even then, sanitization and balancing come first.
Hardness:250
FC:4
Bromine:8
TC:8
CYA:20
ALK:80
Ph:7.2
Phosphates: over 1000-as high as my test goes
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,396
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
What test kit are you using?
How do you get bromine of 8?
www.troublefreepool.com
Your CYA should be 30-40 and your FC should be around 6. That is more important then fooling around with phosphates.
While 1000 for phosphates sounds high note that it is measured in PPB (Parts Per Billion), not PPM parts per million. If you had phosphates of 10,000 or more we would discuss lowering it. 1,000 is not high.
How do you get bromine of 8?
What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?
Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.
www.troublefreepool.com
Your CYA should be 30-40 and your FC should be around 6. That is more important then fooling around with phosphates.
While 1000 for phosphates sounds high note that it is measured in PPB (Parts Per Billion), not PPM parts per million. If you had phosphates of 10,000 or more we would discuss lowering it. 1,000 is not high.
I’m still learning 
I was using test strips and adjusting the number if it was in between. 
I did buy a Taylor kit… but I felt like it was over my head… I had trouble bike trying to figure it out. The strips were easier for me. I am learning a lot in here ….
I’ve read TFP recommended liquid chlorine….So do you recommend to still do a floating chlorine puck? If so-with or without stabilizer in it… I have both.
I was using test strips and adjusting the number if it was in between. I did buy a Taylor kit… but I felt like it was over my head… I had trouble bike trying to figure it out. The strips were easier for me. I am learning a lot in here …. I’ve read TFP recommended liquid chlorine….So do you recommend to still do a floating chlorine puck? If so-with or without stabilizer in it… I have both.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,396
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I’ve read TFP recommended liquid chlorine….So do you recommend to still do a floating chlorine puck? If so-with or without stabilizer in it… I have both.
Depends what your CYA level is. And you cannot get a good value from your test strips.
Start using your Taylor kit and we will help you through any problems.