Sue from FL in Baqua-heck
- Thread starter MeSue
- Start date
I'm in a better mood than I was yesterday. Really churning through the chlorine today. I have been testing every 3 hours today since I got back with the chlorine at 10 AM. Have put in over 3 gallons just today. It must be the sun depleting it because this morning it was 11.5 FC, but nothing higher than 3 throughout the day today. Outdoor temp read 107.6 at one point. Can't wait it take the plunge!
Just keep up with the chlorine, im suprised your usage is so low actually.
I went through 16 gallons in 3 days, and my pool is only 8000 gal.
I went through 16 gallons in 3 days, and my pool is only 8000 gal.
All total, so far, I think I have used about 15 gallons. 2 bottles were 6%, and the rest has been 10 or 10.5%. Starting with the sodium percarb probably did help (even though I was doubting it early on in the process), because I never got the "baqua-goo" that I have seen discussed and it never got so bad that I could not see to the bottom.
Your biguanide levels were pretty high when you started the conversion. Keep plugging away at it. You won't regret it!
I have clear blue water again!
http://picasaweb.google.com/sue.chastai ... ToChlorine
FC was still low this morning, though. I had hubby remove the ladder so I can take a scrubber to it with the hose and some bleach. It has algae and crud in every nook and cranny which can't be reached while it's in the pool.
http://picasaweb.google.com/sue.chastai ... ToChlorine
FC was still low this morning, though. I had hubby remove the ladder so I can take a scrubber to it with the hose and some bleach. It has algae and crud in every nook and cranny which can't be reached while it's in the pool.
Keep hammering it with the chlorine until it holds over night, you are in the home stretch.
I don't know why, but I am always fascinated by these baqua conversions.
Yay, for you - you are almost done.
Yay, for you - you are almost done.
My water is now looking pristine, but the FC did not hold overnight STILL! I literally used my very last drop of test solution to test this morning, so now I am not sure what to do if I can't get more at a pool store here.
A friend of ours who's neighbor is tearing down his AG pool managed to get said neighbor's larger sand filter for us. (We have 100# filter and this one is 200.) So the timing on that works out pretty well... we just need to drive a few hours to go get it.
Since my TA and pH are both high now and I will need to add CYA, I wonder if it would be a good idea to switch to trichlor for a bit after changing the filter? I read where it lowers TA and pH.
Okay, it's 9:00 so I can call the pool store now...
Edit: Nope... no one in town sells that reagent. I called 4 or 5 different stores.
A friend of ours who's neighbor is tearing down his AG pool managed to get said neighbor's larger sand filter for us. (We have 100# filter and this one is 200.) So the timing on that works out pretty well... we just need to drive a few hours to go get it.
Since my TA and pH are both high now and I will need to add CYA, I wonder if it would be a good idea to switch to trichlor for a bit after changing the filter? I read where it lowers TA and pH.
Okay, it's 9:00 so I can call the pool store now...
Edit: Nope... no one in town sells that reagent. I called 4 or 5 different stores.
Use your OTO test and the dilution method (1 part pool water, 3 parts distilled, and test with that... multiply results by 4) This is inaccurate at best, but somewhat better than guessing! Just to tide you over until you can order some reagent.
Would filtered well water be good enough, or do I really need distilled water? Our well water is very pure. We drink it right from the tap, but I can also get filtered water through the fridge dispenser.
It doesn't matter that the OTO test measures TC instead of FC?
Dave did not answer my email... is the $15 minimum for refills real? Nothing stops me from going through the order process. I can also order from Amazon cheaper but I don't know if would get here as fast.
The guy at one of the pool stores I called was surprised I was asking for that reagent because he has never had anyone buy it in 12 years. He asked me why I needed it and I told him the situation, and he said he though I was good to go back to normal chlorine levels using a regular test kit.
It doesn't matter that the OTO test measures TC instead of FC?
Dave did not answer my email... is the $15 minimum for refills real? Nothing stops me from going through the order process. I can also order from Amazon cheaper but I don't know if would get here as fast.
The guy at one of the pool stores I called was surprised I was asking for that reagent because he has never had anyone buy it in 12 years. He asked me why I needed it and I told him the situation, and he said he though I was good to go back to normal chlorine levels using a regular test kit.
a bottle of dasani or other drinking water would be ok too... Maybe your water would be ok... I would guess well water would not have chlorine in it, which is what you are trying to avoid with the distilled.
The OTO is better than nothing. Not perfect. not preferable. just better than guessing.
Yes, $15 minimum on refills, flat shipping fee.
The OTO is better than nothing. Not perfect. not preferable. just better than guessing.
Yes, $15 minimum on refills, flat shipping fee.
For dilution you need water that doesn't have any chlorine or chloramine in it. As long as your well system isn't adding any chlorine you will be fine. Test the well water with the OTO test and if it is zero then you can use it.
Dave is usually really good about answering e-mails. I'm not sure what is up, perhaps he is on vacation. He has sounded quite serious about the $15 minimum in the past.
You can order directly from Taylor and they are said to ship very quickly. Try this link for the various sizes they offer. You probably want R-0871-C, which is a 2 oz container.
You are very very close. There is still some baquacil somewhere, probably in the pipes or filter, that is consumming chlorine. It is best to burn the last of it out before lowering your chlorine level or you will have trouble holding an appropriate FC level.
The fact that the OTO test only shows TC is problematic, but given how close to the end you are you could probably get away with it for a day or two. You can get a vague sense of the CC level by watching the OTO test for several seconds right after you mix the drops in. With CC there will be a color shift over the first 30 seconds and without CC it will go to the final color directly after mixing.
Dave is usually really good about answering e-mails. I'm not sure what is up, perhaps he is on vacation. He has sounded quite serious about the $15 minimum in the past.
You can order directly from Taylor and they are said to ship very quickly. Try this link for the various sizes they offer. You probably want R-0871-C, which is a 2 oz container.
You are very very close. There is still some baquacil somewhere, probably in the pipes or filter, that is consumming chlorine. It is best to burn the last of it out before lowering your chlorine level or you will have trouble holding an appropriate FC level.
The fact that the OTO test only shows TC is problematic, but given how close to the end you are you could probably get away with it for a day or two. You can get a vague sense of the CC level by watching the OTO test for several seconds right after you mix the drops in. With CC there will be a color shift over the first 30 seconds and without CC it will go to the final color directly after mixing.
Thank you, thank you, both!
I ordered the refill directly from Taylor. Thank you for that link. It's hard to find stuff on the site if you don't know the last letter of the product number!
I ordered the refill directly from Taylor. Thank you for that link. It's hard to find stuff on the site if you don't know the last letter of the product number!
My well water has no chlorine!
So with the OTO test, do I use the final color or the initial color to judge how much chlorine to add?
PS: I only thought the water was clear yesterday but today it is literally sparking. Pretty amazing!
http://picasaweb.google.com/sue.chastai ... ToChlorine
So with the OTO test, do I use the final color or the initial color to judge how much chlorine to add?
PS: I only thought the water was clear yesterday but today it is literally sparking. Pretty amazing!
http://picasaweb.google.com/sue.chastai ... ToChlorine
Yep, unable to get emails 'til about 30 min. ago. Back up now. Have emailed a reply to Sue if she hasn't found reagent already.
For what it's worth, you can't see how much R-0871 is left because it is light sensitive....that's the reason for the opaque bottle.
For what it's worth, you can't see how much R-0871 is left because it is light sensitive....that's the reason for the opaque bottle.
MeSue said:
Ideally you want to use the initial color, which will nominally show the FC level. However, most people don't seem to be able to distinguish the shade of yellow clearly before it starts shifting, so there is yet another source of uncertanty/inaccuracy. If you are fast and good at telling the different shades of yellow apart then you can use the OTO test to show both FC and TC. I have never been able to manage it with any confidence, but ocasionally someone says they can. For most people it is only useful for saying CC or no CC, rather than trying to judge the amount.