Struggling to balance new pool

JayRi

Bronze Supporter
May 13, 2020
89
Tampa, FL (Specifically Apollo Beach)
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
My pool has been finished for 5 months. I just started taking care of my pool in the last month and a half. I have been struggling. It started 2 weeks ago when my FC was near zero. I thought the swg wasn’t working. Called Pentair they said to get water tested for a bunch of minerals. Most of which the pool store doesn’t test. Of course they do test for Phosphates, I was at 2000 Ppb.
I did purchase the phosphate remover, treated pool, cleaned filter everything was fine. FC holding steady. Then again back near zero.

I have also been dumping acid to bring the PH at 6.8-7.0, in an attempt to bring down TA.
I am feeling hopeless with constant rising PH, TA doesn’t seem to get to reasonable levels, and now chlorine is back near zero.
Please help point me in the right direction. I’ve been testing like crazy with the TF-100. Following recommendations from pool math.
 
Your TA is fine for the moment. Just keep your pH between 7.5 to 7.8.

With your FC dropping so low you should do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. Let’s see if you have some algae consuming your chlorine.

Report back the results of the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

What is the pH, TA, and CH of your fill water?

You have an autofill on your pool?
 
Finally was able to perform the oclt. Last night I was at 2.5 ppm. This morning I’m at 1 ppm.
I believe I’ll have to shock the pool now.
reading the Chlorine/CYA chart I see a target FC of 5-7 for my CUA level. But in the chart by Chem Geek it shows a shock level of 16ppm. which numbers should I follow?
Also on the first chart it has different levels for liquid chlorine vs SWG. Do I disregard the SWG numbers as I’ll be adding liquid chlorine?
 
You need to SLAM, not shock. Shock Level And *Maintain*. The target level is for day-to-day use when you don't have a problem. You have a problem, and will need to use SLAM numbers until you pass the exit criteria. SLAM numbers are identical for both liquid chlorine and SWG pools.
 
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Jay, since you failed the OCLT, you need to perform the SLAM Process. First, be sure the pH is around 7.2. Then, increase your FC to "16" which is the correct FC SLAM level based on a CYA of 40 when you reference the FC/CYA Levels. Be sure to maintain that FC of 16 as best as you can until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria on that page. Follow all the steps for best success. Once you pass all 3 SLAM criteria, let us know and we'll coach you from there. Good luck!
 

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If you get the chance when you put the first batch of chlorine in make sure the pump runs full rpm to get good mixing. Let mix for half hour and check the slam level. Don't assume it's what it is. At that point if it dropped you should top it up as per pool math . Over shooting a little isn't terrible but don't give it alot more because that's wasteful and does nothing for the slam. Brush well twice daily and top it off sooner rather then later. The more it remains at slam level the more bite it has on the algae.
 
Thanks for the quick reply’s. I’m going to do a full test. Drop my ph to 7.2, and begin the SLAM process.
I use a solar cover on my pool. Should I leave it on during the entire process?
My SWG doesn’t have a way to power it off. If I set the output to zero is that enough? I can’t turn the breaker off as it’s the same breaker for the pump.
 
I use a solar cover on my pool. Should I leave it on during the entire process?
The cover needs to be removed to let the CC be burned off by the sunshine on the pool.
If you like, replace the cover on the pool overnight.
 
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Waiting a few hours isn't a good indicator. Wait 30 minutes and test. You never know what FC you've achieved, maybe the chlorine is weaker then what it's meant to be. We need to be sure you start a slam and have reached the slam target level which you've not established that yet.
 
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