Struggling for a month now with this pool

cleve2024

Member
Jun 18, 2024
17
Cleveland, Ohio
Pool Size
21157
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hi! First time poster. Last spring/summer we were caring for a terminally ill dog in a wheelchair and did not end up opening our pool at all, so it was closed for 2 years. The winter cover shredded in places, and we opened the pool a month ago to a brown, smelly swamp. Went through 30 bottles of shock, various recommendations from different local pool stores (non-copper algaecides, clarifiers (not floc), phosphate remover). Two different pool store chains' employees told me very insistently that CYA does not matter and I should not add it because it's hard to remove. Probably why I went through so much shock? I had 0 CYA when I opened.

I got a K-2006 Taylor kit. I THINK my CYA is now 41 or 42 after slowly adding stabilizer and testing following instructions on here (waist-high, back to the sun, and at-first-glace with the dot). The PH was at 7.3 or 7.4 when I started SLAM a few days ago. We put in a new cartridge filter. I add the amount of shock - sometimes liquid, sometimes Cal-Hypo - that PoolMath says for SLAM at 41 CYA, and test twice a day, but every time I test it's still never at SLAM level. Stays around 0.5 CC and 7.5-12.5 FC. I keep a floater w/2 Tri-Chor tabs in too just because I'm apparently losing so much FC between shocks and I don't think my CYA is too high yet. All the leaf debris seems to be out now and I brush every couple of days.

(1) Pool temp is 73. Would adding a solar cover to raise the temp help the process? I seem to remember one season the cloudy water wouldn't clear until the pool temp went up higher than that, and I had a different pool app (sureTREAT) that claims water should be at least 78 for chemicals to work properly.
(2) We have a 12 mill solar cover that is still intact and hosed off but still pretty dirty from not being stored well. We're thinking of replacing it anyhow with a new one, so degradation from high chlorine's not a big deal. But would dirt and algae on it just make the situation worse?
(3) Our pool's vinyl liner has brownish staining. I assumed it was tannins from a nearby oak tree's leaves, but when I held a Tri-Chlor tab on it for over a minute, I saw no difference. Pool store water test said I have 0-0.3 Total Iron and Copper. Should I try a Vitamin C tablet anyways and see what happens?

Sorry such a long post. I kind of feel like giving up. I know I only started the SLAM a few days ago, and I guess it's been getting slightly better each day since then, but very slightly. And after a month of working on this I'm so discouraged. I can now see the brush at the bottom in a blur, but it's still quite cloudy.
 

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Welcome to TFP from Ashtabula! Go Guardians!

I THINK my CYA is now 41 or 42
Your CYA is 50. Always round up to next 10. Target SLAM fc is 20.
sometimes liquid, sometimes Cal-Hypo
Use liquid Chlorine.
and test twice a day
Testing FC twice a day will not cut it. At a minimum 4x per day. If you can do every 2 hours it will go WAY faster.
I test it's still never at SLAM level.
It won't be. Test, then add enough to raise to slam level FC of 20, wait a couple hours and do the same thing.
I keep a floater w/2 Tri-Chor tabs in too just because I'm apparently losing so much FC between shocks
Take the tabs out of the pool.
I brush every couple of days.
You need to brush daily.

(1) Pool temp is 73. Would adding a solar cover to raise the temp help the process?
Won't make a difference, higher temps consume more FC
But would dirt and algae on it just make the situation worse?
No, but it would clean up the cover.
Our pool's vinyl liner has brownish staining.
Ignore the staining, we can get to that, clear the pool, then we deal with stains.

Test and replace FC more often to get progress.

You Got This Good Luck Today GIF by MOODMAN
 
Go Guardians!! Still not over the Cavs 😁 I used Cal-Hypo because my calcium was low (and also I read on some pool site somewhere that it's stronger on tough algae than Sodium Chlorite, but maybe that's not true?). I got CH up to 130 or 135 w/Cal-Hypo and added 1 lb of 56% since then so I think CH is about 137 now. Does CH below 150 make the water corrosive or it doesn't matter? I have some Calcium Up from a couple years ago I could use at a later date instead if you think Cal-Hypo is not a good idea. I have 2 more 1 lb bags of it but I guess I could store them.

I will buy more liquid shock and use that. I am on a staycation this week so I will start testing every 2 hours during the day. I will brush daily. Do I need to worry about vacuuming if there's no more debris and I'm brushing every day? If so, how often, and through the filter or to waste?

I took the floater with tabs out and put the floater with it's vent open in a tall bucket to dry out. Is it safe to dry the tabs out in the sun on a piece of cardboard and then put them in a closed bucket? Or should I put the floater back in until these 2 partially used pucks are dissolved.

Thank you very, very much for the advice. I appreciate the gif too, because my confidence in the ability to reach clear water has become low!

Do I check if I inadvertently added any bromide to the pool with the several different algaecides I used last month?
 
I used Cal-Hypo because my calcium was low
Calcium is not necessary in a Vinyl pool.

I will buy more liquid shock and use that.
Go to menards. Best price around.

If so, how often, and through the filter or to waste?
Vacuum when you can. To filter is fine. Backwash, note clean filter pressure. When filter pressure rises 25%, backwash again.

Is it safe to dry the tabs out in the sun on a piece of cardboard and then put them in a closed bucket?
Yes.

Do I check if I inadvertently added any bromide to the pool with the several different algaecides I used last month?
Nah, if your FC is 7.5-12.5, you don't have bromine in the pool...

We got your back! SLAM ON! We'll get another clear pool in Cleveland! Link-->How Clear is TFP Clear?
 
Thank you!! I will follow all that advice. :salut: Hopefully "another clear pool in Cleveland" will be ours! 😁 Wow, the pools at the link you posted are so clear I can hardly tell there's water in many of them!
 
A little update: today (on the left) versus pre-SLAM (on the right).
signal-2024-07-05-154039.jpeg

Definite noticeable difference. Can't see the liner pattern on the bottom yet, but I can see the brush head on the bottom better than I could before. Brushing daily, checking FC every couple of hours...even ran home during a 4th of July party yesterday to dose chlorine and come back. 🎇 Have had the pump running 24/7 and hoping the electric bill isn't atrocious 🫣 It's a single-speed pump.

Have also vacuumed a couple of times and took the newish cartridge filter out to hose it down even though the pressure hadn't risen 25% yet. Over the past 2 days the visual difference has been very slight, but yesterday the FC held for two hours without dropping for the first time this week, so I guess there are changes happening besides what I can see.

I read a lot in Pool School and am using the 10 mL sample that's 50% diluted with distilled water and 1 drop = 1 ppm FC.
 
You don't need to dilute, that just introduces an error. If you want to save reagents, use a 5mL sample, 1drop = 1ppm FC.
 

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We can see the bottom now looking down into the pool 🥳, though still hazy. There are spots of dark powdery stuff at the bottom that disappear into a cloud when I brush. The past 2 days we've vacuumed it off the bottom (through the filter and then cleaned the filter), but it returns the next day. Could that be algae forming even though the FC is so high? I haven't checked the combined chlorine in a while, but last time I did it was at 0. I don't find any more leaves or debris in the pool.
 

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It is dead algae. Are you slamming? How often are you testing and replacing FC?

Are you using pool math? If so enable sharing with TFP so we can see your logs.
Home screen--->gear in the upper right-->scroll to the bottom and enable sharing with TFP.

You need to be logged into pool math with the same UID/Password as TFP to share.
 
It is dead algae. Are you slamming? How often are you testing and replacing FC?

Are you using pool math? If so enable sharing with TFP so we can see your logs.
Home screen--->gear in the upper right-->scroll to the bottom and enable sharing with TFP.

You need to be logged into pool math with the same UID/Password as TFP to share.
Thanks...so the filter isn't catching the dead algae? Should I add a filter sock or something? Still slamming, on day 8 of SLAM. Testing & replacing FC every 2 hours during the day. I have been using Pool Math but I haven't logged anything in the app since before I started the SLAM. I was just using the FC calculator and then logging it in a notepad. I'll start logging it in the app from now on, sorry! I think I have sharing enabled now.
 
Yes, filter will catch the dead algae, you may need to vacuum slowly to get more.

Can't see the logs. Are you logged into Pool Math with your TFP UID/password?

Can you post a picture of the entire pool?

Are you brushing?
 
Okay, I think I finally got the app set up right. Can you see my log now? It's also here. The pool is clear now, but not crystal clear yet, and am still seeing dead algae to vacuum, so I guess it doesn't meet the criteria to stop slamming yet. Should I be worried for the liner having high FC for I think 11 days now? Should I keep slamming & wait longer on addressing staining?

Still have staining (light green splotches on bottom, brown or light green on walls, worse or better in certain spots). The middle bottom is bluer than the rest of the floor. But it also seems like the floor pattern of the liner is a lot more faded than I remember it to be. Is that from the high FC or just time/not opening it for 2 years?

Before I got on this forum I was using Cal-Hypo occasionally, and one of the brands' instructions said not to pre-mix it in a bucket, but to sprinkle it around the pool and then brush. At the time I couldn't see the bottom and followed the directions. But now that I can see and feel the bottom, there are a few spots of concern that I highly suspect was from the granular shock sitting there. There are about 3, smaller than palm-sized spots where the liner has little raisin-y wrinkles and/or look whitened. Should I be worried about this and do any preventive measure like a patch kit? 😱
 

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I can see your logs.
Finish the SLAM and address staining later.
Keep brushing.
If you kept FC at SLAM level or below, it will not bleach a liner.
Likely the granular.
Wrinkles are either ground water or low pH. If you get a good picture of them, we can tell the difference.

You have a weekend coming. If you can test and replace FC every 2 hours or so, you might be able to finish this thing off....
 
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I think I'm on day 14 of slam. I did OCLT a couple nights ago and there was none. I didn't stop slamming because I still saw some dead algae on the bottom yesterday. Today there was only a small amount of dead algae, which I vacuumed and then cleaned the filter, and 0 CC. I've got knots in my back from the daily brushing and am strongly hoping the slam can be over tomorrow. I'm so grateful for the crystal clear water (pic is from yesterday and it looks totally clear today!). :D However, now the liner staining sticks out like a sore thumb and my spouse (who is about out of patience with my slamming) has invited my in-town in-laws over for Friday. Any words of wisdom are much appreciated.
 

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Congrats..don't stop util the dead algae is gone.

Here is our stain guide to help with stains.
 
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Thank you so much for all of your help, truly. I'm intimidated by the stain guide 😱 Is there a separate section where I should post if I have questions during that process, or should I just keep up this thread? I don't even know what dry acid is. I had thought these were organic stains, but I guess they couldn't be since I've been slamming for a couple weeks and they're still there?
 

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