Strange Test Results - Seeking Advice

[ATXpoolnewb]

Hello,

After some very cold weather and a deluge of rain last Thursday I've been getting some strange test results. Hoping someone can help guide me with what to do next. I have had the test kit for less than one year but perhaps the testing chemicals need to be replaced? Is it an issue that I've been storing them outdoors? Also the pool water is in the upper 40s, low 50s.

February 1:
PH was 7.8
FC was 23 - perhaps even higher, it was never getting fully clear. I tested using both the simple daily tester and the drop tester. The simple daily tester returned a color I've never seen basically orange. See Pic 1.
CC - 0.5 - barely turned pink after the 5 drops and then 1 drop turned it clear
Calcium Hardness - 700
Alkalanity - 7 but it turned a peach color. See Pic 2.
CYA - 90

February 2:
PH was 8.0
FC was 24 - Similar issues with the February 1 test with both the drop test never turning fully clear and the daily tester turning orange.
CC - 0.5 - barely turned pink after the 5 drops and then 1 drop turned it clear
Calcium Hardness - never turned blue, turned yellow, See Pic 3.
Alkalanity - 6 but it turned a peach color, same as Pic 2.
CYA - 65

My instinct is to replace up to 40% of the water in the pool to reduce the CYA and Calcium Hardness but the water looks perfect and we've been using the hot tub without any skin issues so I figured that if I'm not doing any damage with these levels I could wait until later this spring to replace water after we have a season where a bunch of oak tree debris gets into the pool. Also looking for advice on what's going on with the strange colors.

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

Peter

 

[ajw22]

How do you chlorinate your pool/spa?

 

[JamesW]

we have a chlorinator that has a capacity three 3-in tablets.

 

[JamesW]

The tablets are adding CYA at the same time they add Cl. Not super fast for CYA, but it will rise over time. One gets into a vicious circle - more CYA means higher dosage from the tablets needed to sanitize and control algae, which puts in even more CYA. At some point, the only way to lower CYA is to drain the pool and refill. Hence why they are not liked on this forum.

Best is a Salt Chlorine generator

The chlorinator wont work for long-term chlorine use unless you drain the pool to reduce the CYA every year or two.

 

[JamesW]

High FC is interfering with all tests.

Overuse of tabs is causing the problems warned about in earlier threads.

 

[ATXpoolnewb]

Sorry I should I have clarified. I have the chlorinator turned to 0 and removed the tablets. So I've been exclusively using liquid chlorine. Does that change any of the analysis?

 

[ajw22]

Your pool water still reflects all the tab use.

Why are you adding liquid chlorine with a FC of 24?

 

[JamesW]

Are you adding chlorine without testing?

Are you sure that the chlorinator is empty?

15.6 oz of 3% hydrogen peroxide will lower the FC by 1 ppm.

 

[ATXpoolnewb]

Your pool water still reflects all the tab use.

Why are you adding liquid chlorine with a FC of 24?

I haven't been. I completed a SLAM before we had all of the rain because I noticed some algae and the FC number has held that high. The SLAM target was high because of the high CYA.

 

[JamesW]

I would add 5 quarts of 3% hydrogen peroxide and then test everything in a few hours once the FC is lower.

 

[ajw22]

What was your CH before the SLAM?

Be patient and let your FC drop to normal levels and see where things are.

 

[JamesW]

They do not get much sun and it is cold, so it will take a long time for the FC to drop.

Is the pool covered?

I would get the FC down now by at least 10 ppm.

 

[ajw22]

They do not get much sun and it is cold, so it will take a long time for the FC to drop.

 

[JamesW]

 

[JamesW]

The sun's maximum angle today is about 43 degrees, which means that the pool will get low sun exposure due to the high and close walls.

Also the pool water is in the upper 40s, low 50s.

Sun & moon times today, Austin, Texas, USA

Time for sunrise, sunset, moonrise, and moonset in Austin – Texas – USA. Dawn and dusk (twilight) times and Sun and Moon position. Takes into account Daylight Saving Time (DST).

www.timeanddate.com

 

[JamesW]

Based on the angle and UV index, you only have maybe 3 hours of significant UV exposure.

In any case, you can wait it out or add some H2O2 and get it down faster depending on whatever you want to do.

 

[ATXpoolnewb]

Thank you all. Let me process all of this and then I'll follow up with my next steps and further testing results.

 

[JamesW]

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[JamesW]

The sun's highest altitude in Austin, Texas is on the first day of summer, which is between June 19–22.

The sun's altitude on this day is 83.2°.

In Central Texas the sun’s peak altitude at solar noon ranges from 36.3° to 83.2° above the horizon at its highest point.

The lowest point the sun reaches at solar noon (36.3°) happens on the first day of winter.

Important dates:
March 20: First day of spring 59.9° (Equivalent to sun position on first day of fall on Sept. 21)
June 19-22: 83.2° (Highest position in the sky on first day of summer)
Dec. 21: 36.3° (Lowest position in the sky on first day of winter).

On the lowest angle days, the pool will have places that get no sunlight even at solar noon.

Even on high angle days, the sun only hits most of the pool at solar noon (+/- 1 to 2 hours).

 

[AUSpool]

The pH will be influenced by the high FC, test again when it’s under 10ppm.

The CyA is either 90 or 70ppm. I would test again and do the test with 50/50 pool water/tap water just to be sure it’s not over 90ppm.

TA? It can’t be 6 or 7ppm. With a 25ml sample 1 drop = 10ppm. High chlorine will interfere with this test. The R0007 neutralizes FC but the test assumes the FC isn’t supper high. Try starting with 4 drops of the R0007. Or just let the FC come down and test again.

700ppm is quite high for the CH. Test again when the FC is under 10ppm.