Some back ground. I have 2 40 gallon water heaters. I have removed anode rods from both. 3 years old. Started smelling sulfur smell from hot water only about year ago. I can drain and flush and smell goes away for about 6 -8 weeks. Gets really worse if we are gone for vacation and water gets stagnant. I have used bleach, peroxide, everything to try to get this fixed. On a well that has iron in it but not a lot.
Stinky water from water heater
- Thread starter Mattou01
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,367
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Why did you remove the anode rods from the heaters?
The anode rods are there to sacrifice themselves so other parts of the heater do not corrode.
The anode rods are there to sacrifice themselves so other parts of the heater do not corrode.
On a well. Had multiple plumbers tell me I didn’t need em and they can cause smell themselves.
You can try a powered anode rod that doesn't use metals, or switch to a zinc sacrificial rod.
Those plumbers that told you to take the rods out are the same plumbers you will call when your heater rusts out in record time!
Those plumbers that told you to take the rods out are the same plumbers you will call when your heater rusts out in record time!
No, the 2 plumbers are friends of mine. I trust them. I have thought about using a different anode rod to see if that helps. Currently doing some other diagnostics first.
- Feb 6, 2015
- 7,818
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Are you prefiltering the well water before it enters the water heater or house plumbing?
It goes through water softener only. I don’t have a filter yet. That’s on the table but trying to see what I’m up against first.
Sulfates get reduced to sulfide by bacteria or the anode.
Sulfide combines with hydrogen to produce the stinky hydrogen sulfide gas.
How is hydrogen sulfide gas produced in a water heater?
A water heater can provide an ideal environment for the conversion of sulfate to hydrogen sulfide gas.
The water heater can produce hydrogen sulfide gas in two ways - creating a warm environment where sulfur bacteria can live, and sustaining a reaction between sulfate in the water and the water heater anode.
A water heater usually contains a metal rod called an "anode," which is installed to reduce corrosion of the water heater tank.
The anode is usually made of magnesium metal, which can supply electrons that aid in the conversion of sulfate to hydrogen sulfide gas.
The anode is 1/2 to 3/4 inches in diameter and 30 to 40 inches long.
Sulfide combines with hydrogen to produce the stinky hydrogen sulfide gas.
How is hydrogen sulfide gas produced in a water heater?
A water heater can provide an ideal environment for the conversion of sulfate to hydrogen sulfide gas.
The water heater can produce hydrogen sulfide gas in two ways - creating a warm environment where sulfur bacteria can live, and sustaining a reaction between sulfate in the water and the water heater anode.
A water heater usually contains a metal rod called an "anode," which is installed to reduce corrosion of the water heater tank.
The anode is usually made of magnesium metal, which can supply electrons that aid in the conversion of sulfate to hydrogen sulfide gas.
The anode is 1/2 to 3/4 inches in diameter and 30 to 40 inches long.
If you detect the smell of hydrogen sulfide only from the hot water faucet, your water heater may be causing the problem.
The magnesium corrosion control rod (anode rod) inside the water heater can chemically react with sulfate to form hydrogen sulfide.
This problem can be eliminated or minimized by replacing the magnesium rod with one made of aluminum or zinc.
If water temperature is maintained above 150 °F, use only an aluminum rod.
The magnesium corrosion control rod (anode rod) inside the water heater can chemically react with sulfate to form hydrogen sulfide.
This problem can be eliminated or minimized by replacing the magnesium rod with one made of aluminum or zinc.
If water temperature is maintained above 150 °F, use only an aluminum rod.
- Feb 6, 2015
- 7,818
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
I think your issue will remain until you get a treatment or filter option before the water enters the water softener. You need a whole house solution.
Any filter will work. I used a Hayward whole house filter a couple years ago to replace the original filter that needed replacing. I use the string wound filters. It is an easy add.
I replaced my water heater 3 years ago and was worried about the same issue you're having. Prior to the new heater, I never had the rotten egg smell even though I am on a well and have a softener. I was sure the anode rod was gone since the heater was close to 30 years old
. It is electric though. Prior to install, I swapped out the anode rod to aluminum and don't have the smell thankfully
I replaced my water heater 3 years ago and was worried about the same issue you're having. Prior to the new heater, I never had the rotten egg smell even though I am on a well and have a softener. I was sure the anode rod was gone since the heater was close to 30 years old
. It is electric though. Prior to install, I swapped out the anode rod to aluminum and don't have the smell thankfully