Still green - starting to understand why I think - need help!

Fanny1953

0
Bronze Supporter
May 29, 2018
13
Vero Beach, Fl
Trying to learn to take care of my pool. My pool was green with algae. Went to Leslies - got Green to clean - did the drill and then my filter died and Florida had torrential rains. In spite of keeping chlorine levels up with no filter for 5 days, the pool turned green again. Back to Leslies - green to clean again - this time no results. Got Taylor k-2006 test kit and, lo and behold, CYA level is well over 100 (did the pool/tap water version of the test and the result was 100). Only option - drain the pool? How far? I'm assuming I have to turn the filter off as the water level will go below the skimmer? Only way to effectively drain the pool is with a pump. I'd appreciate specific instructions and don't assume I know anything:D Thanks for your help!
 
:wave: Welcome to TFP!!!

You should replace about half the water to get the CYA down.
You can use a submersible pump, rent from Home Depot or buy a cheap one from Harbor Freight.
 
Does your area have a high water table? You are typically OK if you just drain a couple feet or so.

Or.

You can exchange some water without draining.

If you place a low volume sub pump in the deep end and pull water from there while adding water in the shallow end you can do a fairly efficient exchange. That is assuming the water you are filling with is the same temperature or warmer than your pool water. If your fill water is much cooler than your pool water, then switch it. Add the water to the deep end (hose on bottom) and pull water from the top step.

The location of the pump and fill hose may change if you have salt water, high calcium, etc.
In my pool, with saltwater and high calcium when I drain, I put the pump in the deep end and hose in shallow end. The water in the pool weighs more per unit volume than the fill water from the hose.

Be sure to balance the water out and water in so the pool level stays the same.
 
Hi Fanny! Welcome to TFP. You're in good hands now that you found TFP. Read up on Pool School and start enjoying your pool through education. You will be stunned at the clarity you will see with TFPC and the money you will save. I have a feeling you will notice a HUGE difference in water quality and see what a truly crystal clear pool is suppose to look like.
 
Does your area have a high water table? You are typically OK if you just drain a couple feet or so.

Or.

You can exchange some water without draining.

If you place a low volume sub pump in the deep end and pull water from there while adding water in the shallow end you can do a fairly efficient exchange. That is assuming the water you are filling with is the same temperature or warmer than your pool water. If your fill water is much cooler than your pool water, then switch it. Add the water to the deep end (hose on bottom) and pull water from the top step.

The location of the pump and fill hose may change if you have salt water, high calcium, etc.
In my pool, with saltwater and high calcium when I drain, I put the pump in the deep end and hose in shallow end. The water in the pool weighs more per unit volume than the fill water from the hose.

Be sure to balance the water out and water in so the pool level stays the same.

In process of draining the pool - adding water to deep end and pumping from shallow due to water temp. I know my questions sound so basic but I'm going by the principle of "the only stupid questions are the ones not asked" so....!. do I keep adding chlorine during the draining process? 2. Since I'm adding water at the same time that I am draining water I won't really be able to tell how much water I have drained - how often should I test the CYA during this process?

This forum has been a life changer - the amount of knowledge here is mind boggling - it's taking a lot of my time to do this myself but I trust when I'm done with this process the time suck will lessen. I've always said I can do a crappy job for free - and my experience here in Florida with pool services has been horrific!

Thanks for your help!
 
Jumping in to say you are in very good hands with those that have already been helping!

I like you style! Doing what needs to be done, following directions AND asking LOTS of questions!!!! NO question is a bad one. If you don't know how are you going to find out if you don't ask???

I would NOT add chlorine while you are exchanging water. It could do a number on where it is going-killing grass and such. I would turn on your pump for about 30 mins then do a CYA test this morning to see where you are at with the CYA. Remember you want to just GLANCE in at the dot. Don't look for it or you will see it. Just a GLANCE and move on.

Kim:kim:
 

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If there is no way to gauge how much water you're draining and how much water you're pumping in. I would attempt to remove the water one third at a time. Take the level down to the bottom of the skimmer basket, refilled freshwater back up to skimmer basket, circulate old and new water, then run CYA test, and see if it is in range of 30-50 ppm if you don't have a salt water chlorinator. Unless someone else here has a better suggestion?

I would add your chlorine or bleach after you get your CYA dialed in. No point in wasting it...

Here is a CYA chart for your reference so you understand the relationship between CYA and Free Chlorine.CYA stabilizer and conditioner are the same thing. The higher the cya goes the more chlorine is required to sanitize the pool properly. When the cya is below 30 or not appropriate for your conditions, then the hot sun, and organics will eat up to chlorine almost immediately. 30 ppm is CYA base minimum to consume less chlorine and run pool on minimal amounts of chlorine. 40ppm is ideal because it provides an extra chlorine consumption buffer, but requires a little more chlorine to maintain proper sanitation. 50 is on the high end of the range

Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
 
Since I'm adding water at the same time that I am draining water I won't really be able to tell how much water I have drained

To measure the rate of in/out you can time how long it takes to fill a 5 gallon bucket from the hose out of the sub pump. It should be around a minute or so. Most low volume sub pumps can pump at +/- 10 gpm depending on lift and how long the hose from it is.
 
Thanks everyone for your help - amazing!
Re: in/out rate - did 5 gallon bucket test - and its about 5-6 gallons a minute.
Have been draining and filling for a combined 3-4 hours and the CYA is lowering - still over 100 but filling tube more before dot disappears - yay! So I see that patience (not my strong suit) is the key and not skipping any steps...tedious but worth it in the long run. Also tested FC - 10 and pH 7.4 - will keep you posted!
 
Thanks everyone for your help - amazing!
Re: in/out rate - did 5 gallon bucket test - and its about 5-6 gallons a minute.
Have been draining and filling for a combined 3-4 hours and the CYA is lowering - still over 100 but filling tube more before dot disappears - yay! So I see that patience (not my strong suit) is the key and not skipping any steps...tedious but worth it in the long run. Also tested FC - 10 and pH 7.4 - will keep you posted!

That's great! Keep it up! And Welcome to TFP!
 
Excellent....keep up the good work...Awesome

Thanks everyone for your help - amazing!
Re: in/out rate - did 5 gallon bucket test - and its about 5-6 gallons a minute.
Have been draining and filling for a combined 3-4 hours and the CYA is lowering - still over 100 but filling tube more before dot disappears - yay! So I see that patience (not my strong suit) is the key and not skipping any steps...tedious but worth it in the long run. Also tested FC - 10 and pH 7.4 - will keep you posted!
 
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