Stenner pump injection port location and configuration

[MBPooldiy]

After a very successful year on LC, I'm now interested in installing a Stenner pump for this season. I have reviewed many of the posts on this site (and will continue) but as of now I'm considering either a 45MPHP10 fixed pump with 15 gallon tank (mainly because it's easy to find) but was also interested in the Econ T with integrated timer. But I think the Econ T might be more expensive, and there may not be a big benefit over a lamp timer in my case because if there is a power outage my pool pump clock will reset to midnight anyway. So fail safe timer synchronization may be tricky, but I will save that discussion for a little later along with some questions on the actual pump selection.

Initially I'm seeking some short term advice/confirmation on the location and configuration of the injector port. Since I need to have a slow leak in my pool auto fill plumbing addressed now, I wanted to have the plumber go ahead and install a fitting for the Stenner injector port while he is here.

I have attached a picture of my equipment. 2 possible locations for the port would be either on the main 2" pipe that exits the pump or the 1-1/2" pipe after the split that goes to the pool inlet ports. The other side of the 1-1/2" pipe goes to the waterfall. We only use the waterfall occasionally and it would unlikely be at the same time that chlorine is being injected. I think there is room to install the pump in the corner of the alcove to the left of the pump. Any thoughts on which port location would be preferred?

Which ever location, what I would like to do for the injection port is install a slip tee with a 1/2" outlet, then a 1/2" ball valve and then a 1/2" adapter to a 1/4" pipe thread. The parts are shown in the second picture. This way I could close the valve anytime I wanted to disconnect the pump system for cleaning or repairs and continue to run the pool normally. Also I could take my time deciding which pump to get and shop for best price. Any thoughts on possible problems with that or considerations I might be missing? Any advice is appreciated!

 

[mknauss]

Keep all items concerning this in one thread.

 

[pjt]

After a very successful year on LC, I'm now interested in installing a Stenner pump for this season.

Have you considered a SWG? You'd be a great candidate for one.

location

On the pressure side of your system after the filter.

configuration of the injector port

If you have 2" plumbing, I'd recommend these parts:

2" x 2" x 1/2" Sch 40 PVC Reducing Tee - Soc x Fipt

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1/2" Sch 40 PVC Plug Mipt 450-005

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No need for the valve. When you want to remove the Stenner feed tube, just install the plug.

 

[MBPooldiy]

If you have 2" plumbing, I'd recommend these parts:

OK, seems I may be overthinking it. So until I actually get the pump, and/or I want to remove the pump, I just keep the plug in place. When the Stenner is to be added or removed I turn off the pool pump, swap out the plug/Stenner and then turn the pool pump back on? However the Tee and the plug that you recommended are 1/2" pipe thread and my understanding was that I need a 1/4" thread for Stenner. That's why I was looking at this part: 1/2 x 1/4 Inch, Reducing Bushing, Spigot x FIPT - Schedule 40 - 438-072. But then I would need a 1/4" threaded plug, right?

Also I have a mix of both 2" and 1-1/2" plumbing after the filter. I showed the possible locations in the attached picture and wondering where others might put it. The 1-1/2" section is a little longer and perhaps easier to work with while the 2-1/2" section would also feed the waterfall in the rare case that it is on while the Stenner is on.

 

[MBPooldiy]

Have you considered a SWG? You'd be a great candidate for one.

I have, but concerned about higher salt levels since backwash water has to get drained into my backyard. I'm more comfortable draining chlorine water vs. salt water into the yard. (Chlorine evaporates but salt just builds up in the soil.) If we had city sewers and were allowed to drain there then SWG would be a much more attractive option.

 

[mknauss]

Have you tested the salinity of your existing pool water?

 

[pjt]

So until I actually get the pump, and/or I want to remove the pump, I just keep the plug in place. When the Stenner is to be added or removed I turn off the pool pump, swap out the plug/Stenner and then turn the pool pump back on?

Yes.

my understanding was that I need a 1/4" thread for Stenner.

They are threaded for 1/2" as well.

Stenner Pumps

Stenner Pumps andInjection Systems The very best metering pumps and injection systems in the industry. Since 1957 Stenner Pumps has established an impeccable reputation as the manufacturer of the very best metering pumps in the industry. Stenner pumps are uniquely designed for the water...

www.stennerpumpparts.com

concerned about higher salt levels

Do you know your current salinity? You might be surprised.

 

[MBPooldiy]

Have you tested the salinity of your existing pool water?

Good point. I guess with LC I could eventually end up with a higher salt concentration than SWG? Currently it is around 700 but I just had RO treatment last summer.

 

[mknauss]

The use of LC, muriatic acid, and your fill water all raise the salinity of your water.

 

[MBPooldiy]

Have you tested the salinity of your existing pool water?

Good point. I guess with LC I could eventually end up with a higher salt concentration than SWG? Currently is is around 700

Yes.


They are threaded for 1/2" as well.

Stenner Pumps

Stenner Pumps andInjection Systems The very best metering pumps and injection systems in the industry. Since 1957 Stenner Pumps has established an impeccable reputation as the manufacturer of the very best metering pumps in the industry. Stenner pumps are uniquely designed for the water...

www.stennerpumpparts.com

Do you know your current salinity? You might be surprised.

That's good to know, thanks! I was looking at this kit and everything I saw referred to 1/4" fittings. But I see now that there is also the 1/2" option: S1G45MFH2A1SUAA - 15 Gallon Chemical Tank With 45MPHP10 Fixed Pump - 100 PSI 10 GPD 1/4 Inch - Stenner

So now maybe I will do some calculations and see how long it might be before my salinity on LC gets to be higher than SWG. But I don't think it hurts to go ahead and have the tee and plug installed now. I don't think I would do SWG this year and really don't want to spend the summer doing LC every day.

 

[Bill1974]

For a timer I have used a smart wifi switch to control a contactor that controls my Stenner and also did the same for my pool pump. This makes is easy to see if a breaker or GFCI ever trips (wifi switch shows as off line). It's easy to adjust the run times of the stenner and pool pump from an app on your phone. I find that I have to tweak my run times a few minutes a few times when the pool is open. I use about a half gallon of LC a day with my pool, so that works out to 72 minutes of run time for the 10 gpd stenner. Also do what you can to protect your stenner from the weather. I have had mine lock up from the rotor rusting to the stator. Taking it apart and clearing the rust got it working again.

The reason for the contactor is becuase the wifi switch are generally not rated to handle the inrush when a pool pump starts.

For a Stenner pump I went with a 10gpd but would have been happier with a higher flow unit so it doe not run as much, would just need to have it run more times during the day for shorter periods. A higher flow pump also could be help when slamming a pool or when you want to raise the chlorine level quickly and don't have a bottle of LC handy.

 

[MBPooldiy]

Hey Bill,

I used to live in your area, Suffolk County, until about 3 years ago. Our biggest issue was opening and cleaning the pool in the spring after being covered all winter. That is the only time we used LC. Once cleaned up we never had to be concerned about CYA build up and used a chlorinator with pucks for 15 years. I never appreciated the simplicity of that method until we moved here.

I appreciate your tips on the timer and pump. In our case our pool pump has an integrated timer and wouldn't work with a wifi switch, at least not without coming up with some more complicated (expensive) control scheme. On the other hand, a wifi switch for the Stenner would be helpful, both for notification that there was a power outage (and the pool pump clock has probably reset to midnight), and I think it could be set it up so that the Stenner would not automatically turn on again after a power outage until I've had a chance to reset the pool pump clock and ensure the schedules were still synchronized. The remaining risk would be how to deal with a power outage in case it happens while we're on vacation. And also will check specs to see if I will need a contactor for the Stenner.

I think I will need to figure out how to weather protect the installation area a bit more, at least from the sun, but rain as well (infrequent as that may be) and also from potential spray from the pool pump when backwashing.

 

[MBPooldiy]

Question related to the piping modifications for this project. I can see that in order to install a tee it is going to be necessary to cut through at least 3 sections of pipe. I did think of a way to do that, but now thinking that I should go ahead and replace my aging backflush valve. Everything is glued together so looks like it is becoming a more complicated project. I was thinking that rather than just re-glue everything back together there might be a benefit to adding unions in a few strategic spots to simplify future service. With my pool back east, union joints were used to enable the piping to be removed almost in entirety for the winter, leaving only the skimmer and return pipes coming out of the ground. Question for southwest members--is there a reason other than the added expense that union joints seem to be avoided in pools installed in the desert? Do they not stand up to the climate and I would be dealing with future problems by having union joints in sections of my piping?

 

[mknauss]

Question for southwest members--is there a reason other than the added expense that union joints seem to be avoided in pools installed in the desert? Do they not stand up to the climate and I would be dealing with future problems by having union joints in sections of my piping?

Cheaper. Add unions where they make sense.

 

[MBPooldiy]

I had the threaded tee installed so ready for next step. However I don’t want to order the Stenner pump until validating exactly how to control it. Hoping to hear a few additional comments on the following:

I’m using an IntelliFlo VS programmable pump and all scheduling is maintained using the onboard controller. I don’t have any type of external controller (EasyTouch, SunTouch, etc.) and I was planning to use a heavy duty wifi timer to control the Stenner pump. I would program the timer so it powers the Stenner only during a pool pump cycle. I was initially concerned that in case of power outage my pool pump clock will reset to midnight and the clocks would then go out of sync. It turns out that this is not necessarily the case and as long as power is restored within 96 hours the pool pump will remember and resume its programmed schedule. So, it seems I should in theory be OK with the dual timers. I’ve seen some examples on this site where others are using stand alone timers to control the Stenner pump and just wondering if anyone has taken the precaution of an additional failsafe just in case the pool pump does not run for some reason and how it was implemented?

In lieu of any additional failsafe, I could just program the Stenner cycle(s) to run during the day when I would likely notice if the pool pump is not running. And for vacations I could program the pool pump to run 24/7.

 

[CA92807]

I use a Woods 50015 50015WD outdoor timer to control my Stenner. The timer has a battery backup that lasts for many weeks.

I added a simple but effective fail-safe pressure flow switch (Tecmark 5015P) in series with the pump.

You can find both on Amazon.

I started with 10 GPD and changed to a #7 tube for 22 GPD, about 2 Oz/Min. I run my pump 1 hour at 7 AM high speed for my suction cleaner, low speed for 2 hours at noon with 1/3 CL dose in the summer and 2 hours at 10 PM with 2/3 dose. I have a 15 gallon tank I fill monthly in the summer. This is my 8th year with the Stenner and it works really well. My first meter tube lasted about 20 months, so I replace them yearly now. I replace the black feeder hose every two years just to be safe. My roller assembly lasted about 5 years. Get a Stenner AK600 Flow Indicator to quickly check the status.

 

[johnw]

I just drilled a hole (through a coupling for extra thickness), tapped the hole with a 1/4” NPT tap, and screwed the injection port directly in the hole. I electrically interlocked my Stenner pump with my main filter pump so the Stenner can’t run without my filter pump running. I also used an unused relay in my Hayward ProLogic controller and software interlocked the Stenner to my main pump (just like the Polaris pump). My timing is controlled through my Hayward ProLogic controller.

 

[MBPooldiy]

I added a simple but effective fail-safe pressure flow switch (Tecmark 5015P) in series with the pump.

If I may ask, how did you connect the flow switch--by tapping into the power cord? Understand if you prefer not to answer. I appreciate the tips on maintenance and will duplicate for my system.

 

[CA92807]

I put the flow switch in a Centex j-box with a power cord to the timer and an outlet for the Stenner pump. The flow switch gets its pressure from the water line between the pool pump outlet and the input to the filter. I added an elapsed timer to show the cumulative dosing. The j-box is oversized, but I already had it.

 

[MBPooldiy]

I put the flow switch in a Centex j-box with a power cord to the timer and an outlet for the Stenner pump. The flow switch gets its pressure from the water line between the pool pump outlet and the input to the filter. I added an elapsed timer to show the cumulative dosing. The j-box is oversized, but I already had it.

Nice! Thanks for sharing!