Starting up first time

[JnPlwolf]

My pool is brand new. It is about 16K gallons including the spa. I also have an AOP sanitation system which means I can run pretty low FC. I’m excited to take care of it myself and not intimidated by testing. I already have a drop style test kit. I downloaded PoolMath and think it is pretty great BUT why are the recommended levels of TA and CH so different from every other recommendation I see out there? Here is my latest log if you have advice.

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Backyard Pool
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Build Type: Plaster
Volume: 16030 gallons
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Latest Test Result Summary:
FC: 0.8 (11 hours ago)
CC: 0.0 (11 hours ago)
pH: 7.5 (11 hours ago)
TA: 110 (20 hours ago)
CH: 220 (20 hours ago)
CYA: 45 (20 hours ago)
TEMPERATURE: 70° (11 hours ago)
CSI: -0.22 (11 hours ago)
==========================================

 

[Texas Splash]

think it is pretty great BUT why are the recommended levels of TA and CH so different from every other recommendation I see out there?

This is where that link below becomes so important. You have to remember that the pool industry as a whole (builders, local store, etc) use age-old generic standards across the board regardless of location, pool type, method of chlorination, etc. That will never work in the long term. TFP recommended levels are designed for each of those factors. As for the AOP, keep in mind that builders often "encourage" the purchase of auxiliary equipment that is not beneficial to water chemistry, only their pocketbook or incentives by that manufacturer. Ozone for example, there is no reason any outdoor pool, especially in the hotter areas, should need ozone when the sun provides plenty of ozone and UV to remove combined chlorines. Chlorine is always teh best sanitizer. Pool store expect owners to keep a tower filled with chlorine tabs. Those tabs increase CYA extremely fast, and the only way to lower CYA is to change water. They don't tell you that though and continue to see you buckets of tabs until one day they say "drain you pool". In addition, tabs are acidic which tends to lower the pH too low (yours is almost there) and can cause aggressive water (corrosion). Therefore they show a higher TA level to "try" and compensate. So many myths and lack of understanding out there.

Simple fact - you MUST test your own water with a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C. Each of those kits contain a separate "FAS-DPD" tester which is extremely important for accurate FC and CC testing. As I look at your numbers above, the FC is way too low. How low depends on if this is a salt or non-salt pool. Your CSI is too low for a new pool when the plaster still needs to cure in the first 30 days. Let the pH rise to about 7.6-7.8 to get the CSI closer to neutral. Once you are past 30 days, then you can manage the CSI between zero and -0.3 to prevent scale.

We can go over much more info and questions, but that's just a few things to give you an idea.

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Texas Splash]

Also take a look at the following:

Watch your FC to CYA ratio to avoid algae per the FC/CYA Levels.

Alternative sanitizers and "chemical free" pools--The Truth!

Pool owners frequently seek out "Chemical Free" alternatives to pool water sanitization. Many claims in favor of these systems and methods have been made (usually by the manufacturers of such systems) often without adequate scientific proof of their efficacy. Let's take a look at them and see...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[JnPlwolf]

This is where that link below becomes so important. You have to remember that the pool industry as a whole (builders, local store, etc) use age-old generic standards across the board regardless of location, pool type, method of chlorination, etc. That will never work in the long term. TFP recommended levels are designed for each of those factors. As for the AOP, keep in mind that builders often "encourage" the purchase of auxiliary equipment that is not beneficial to water chemistry, only their pocketbook or incentives by that manufacturer. Ozone for example, there is no reason any outdoor pool, especially in the hotter areas, should need ozone when the sun provides plenty of ozone and UV to remove combined chlorines. Chlorine is always teh best sanitizer. Pool store expect owners to keep a tower filled with chlorine tabs. Those tabs increase CYA extremely fast, and the only way to lower CYA is to change water. They don't tell you that though and continue to see you buckets of tabs until one day they say "drain you pool". In addition, tabs are acidic which tends to lower the pH too low (yours is almost there) and can cause aggressive water (corrosion). Therefore they show a higher TA level to "try" and compensate. So many myths and lack of understanding out there.

Simple fact - you MUST test your own water with a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C. Each of those kits contain a separate "FAS-DPD" tester which is extremely important for accurate FC and CC testing. As I look at your numbers above, the FC is way too low. How low depends on if this is a salt or non-salt pool. Your CSI is too low for a new pool when the plaster still needs to cure in the first 30 days. Let the pH rise to about 7.6-7.8 to get the CSI closer to neutral. Once you are past 30 days, then you can manage the CSI between zero and -0.3 to prevent scale.

We can go over much more info and questions, but that's just a few things to give you an idea.

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

Thank you for that answer. To be clear, I am testing the pool myself. I reported my

This is where that link below becomes so important. You have to remember that the pool industry as a whole (builders, local store, etc) use age-old generic standards across the board regardless of location, pool type, method of chlorination, etc. That will never work in the long term. TFP recommended levels are designed for each of those factors. As for the AOP, keep in mind that builders often "encourage" the purchase of auxiliary equipment that is not beneficial to water chemistry, only their pocketbook or incentives by that manufacturer. Ozone for example, there is no reason any outdoor pool, especially in the hotter areas, should need ozone when the sun provides plenty of ozone and UV to remove combined chlorines. Chlorine is always teh best sanitizer. Pool store expect owners to keep a tower filled with chlorine tabs. Those tabs increase CYA extremely fast, and the only way to lower CYA is to change water. They don't tell you that though and continue to see you buckets of tabs until one day they say "drain you pool". In addition, tabs are acidic which tends to lower the pH too low (yours is almost there) and can cause aggressive water (corrosion). Therefore they show a higher TA level to "try" and compensate. So many myths and lack of understanding out there.

Simple fact - you MUST test your own water with a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C. Each of those kits contain a separate "FAS-DPD" tester which is extremely important for accurate FC and CC testing. As I look at your numbers above, the FC is way too low. How low depends on if this is a salt or non-salt pool. Your CSI is too low for a new pool when the plaster still needs to cure in the first 30 days. Let the pH rise to about 7.6-7.8 to get the CSI closer to neutral. Once you are past 30 days, then you can manage the CSI between zero and -0.3 to prevent scale.

We can go over much more info and questions, but that's just a few things to give you an idea.

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

Many thanks for the answer. I am currently testing my pool daily with the Taylor K-1005 until I get the recommended kit. I did report my CYA incorrectly (didn’t know how to read the test) the correct reading is 0.) I assume that I need to add some buffer to get that in the recommended range. Clearly I need more FC and will keep treating the Ph. Am I in a place where those pucks make sense to use since I have no CYA and need to raise my chlorine while keeping the pH in check. I get a lot of arriation from the spill over and water falls.

 

[Texas Splash]

With zero CYA, I would add some stabilizer now for a goal of at least 30 - 40. It's much quicker. Use the sock soaking method, then you can balance the FC to your new CYA and the FC should hold much better.

Adding CYA:
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.

 

[JnPlwolf]

With zero CYA, I would add some stabilizer now for a goal of at least 30 - 40. It's much quicker. Use the sock soaking method, then you can balance the FC to your new CYA and the FC should hold much better.

Great that’s what I was thinking it just seems like trichlor would do both if used for a short time. Btw I reported my pH after adding acid. It was 8.0 before.