Hi everyone!
I've been reading and lurking for a couple of weeks, absorbing the wisdom of people who have been there and done that when it comes to a pool. We are just to the point of setting it up and filling and I have resolved to go the BBB way. I have received my testing kit (TF100) and have tested our well. I have not test the county water yet.
Here's the question-- free well water, much slower fill-up or county water at about $7/1000 gallon. After testing the well water, which we knew from experience to be extremely soft and slickery(?) (to the point of sometimes being faintly salty to my wife), I wanted to post the figures, stick'em in the calculator, and see what the experts thought. Thanks in advance for advice. Kevin
WELL WATER PH >8.2, TA 480+(yes, 48 drops before beginning to turn reddish, not fully red)
CH=10-20(2nd drop turned it blue immediately) FC=0, CYA=0
Would it be easier to balance starting with the county water?
I've been reading and lurking for a couple of weeks, absorbing the wisdom of people who have been there and done that when it comes to a pool. We are just to the point of setting it up and filling and I have resolved to go the BBB way. I have received my testing kit (TF100) and have tested our well. I have not test the county water yet.
Here's the question-- free well water, much slower fill-up or county water at about $7/1000 gallon. After testing the well water, which we knew from experience to be extremely soft and slickery(?) (to the point of sometimes being faintly salty to my wife), I wanted to post the figures, stick'em in the calculator, and see what the experts thought. Thanks in advance for advice. Kevin
WELL WATER PH >8.2, TA 480+(yes, 48 drops before beginning to turn reddish, not fully red)
CH=10-20(2nd drop turned it blue immediately) FC=0, CYA=0
Would it be easier to balance starting with the county water?