Starting amperage for pool heater

tonygret

Active member
Sep 18, 2022
44
Vero Beach, FL
Pool Size
8200
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I have the Jacuzzi JHX127 listed below. I am considering putting this on a WiFi controlled timer. The timer is rated at 240v at 40 amps max and I was wondering if these heaters jump way up past there amp rating. My heater specs say it’s 29 amps, but what about when it first kicks on? This chart doesn’t have that number, but it does call for a 50 amp breaker, which leads me to believe there is a spike at some point. I’d call Jacuzzi, but past experience leads me to believe that would be futile. Any thoughts? Thanks.

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Generally speaking, on an inductive motor load, the in-rush current will be fairy close the to the locked rotor amperage (LRA) of the motor. This can be 2-3 times the LRA initially for the first millisecond or so and then about equal to the LRA once the rotors start to spin up. After a short time, all the motors will reach their steady state current draw. So it’s not very easy to say what the in-rush current will be or how long it will last without directly measuring the system under load. If you can find out the what the fan motor is and what compressor is used, you could try to track down the LRA info from the manufacturers. Or, you could try to measure it if you have a fast, digital RMS multimeter with a Peak/Hold function.

But I agree with @JamesW, you should be controlling the heat pump using a relay to close the FS, not by abruptly cutting power. Compressors and digital control circuits don’t respond well to sudden power losses, they usually like to be de-energized slowly.
 
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To understand why I want to put the heater on a timer, I have to go back a little bit.

I was sold a Hayward SWG rated at 40K gallons for an 8500-gallon pool. The SWG came on with the pool pump's analog timer. Even at the lowest setting of 5, the SWG was creating way too much chlorine, so I had to put it on its own timer to limit the time it was on. I chose a WifI timer so I could make all the tweaks I needed from my phone with an excellent result.

That led me to thinking - which usually means trouble and expense. I hate the analog timers with the wheels and the on and off pins, so I figured I should replace both of the pump timers (high and low) with the same wifi timers, giving me easy access to change pump times. I can even tell Alexa to turn it on and off while vacuuming the pool. This mod also turned out great!

That led me to thinking – again. Due to the built-in flow sensor, my heater only works when the pump is at high speed. Since I always have the heater set at the same temperature when I am using it, the only thing I control on the heater is when it is on and off. A timer would allow me to set a routine to turn it off for ten days while I am away and come back two days before I come back to get the pool up to temperature. That would coincide with the pump being on high speed long enough to let the heater work.

So, in the end, all the wifi timers will be an inexpensive way to get all my equipment automated without sending a thousand on a pool automation system. I could set up a routine and say, "Alexa, heat the pool for the next two days," and would set the timers accordingly to make that happen.

As an IT person for years, I am not convinced powering down a circuit board will reduce its life. The SWG gets powered on and off every day with no ill effects. There may be something to powering it down while it's heating, but the timers would be set to ensure that didn't happen.

Anyway, you asked 😊
 
Is the remote firemans switch an optional purchase? I couldn't find any menton of it in the manual. I found the following, but I am afraid it's not registeriing wih me.

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Also, with WiFi switches, make sure you get ones that can handle large inductive loads. Your pump is basically a huge inductor with a very large in-rush current and flyback that can easily blow cheap switches. Most WiFi switches are only intended for resistive loads. You might consider having the WiFi switch run a contactor relay instead of the direct power to the motor. That way the mechanical contactor can handle the reactive load.
 
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This is a 240V, 40A inductive load switch. It specifcally states it is for heaters, pumps, motors. Unlike most wifi switches, this thing is built like a tank. Here is the link.

I called the manuafacturer of the heater, which is not Jacuzzi by the way; they just license the name. I got lucky and talked to someone who knew his stuff. He told me the unit will not suffer form being complteley powered on and off as it acts just like a HVAC unit that does the same thing. He said he had one concern and one possible issue. He didn't know if the heater would rememebr the last temerature setting if powered off for an extended period. He also said the 40A switch would be fine for the 29A rated draw, but the Turn On Amerage may be 3 or 4 times that, and he wonders if the 40A switch could handle the surge, even for a split second. That's where the contact and relay may have to be utilized as Matt says.

I have a ticket open with the switch manuafacturer and will wait to see what they say. I will aslo throw the heater breaker off for a few days and see if it holds the last temerature and mode settings. Once I get tha info, I'll post back.

One last thing, these switches are very veristile. and they also keep historal data on power consumption which could be very helpful in determinig the best times to turn things on and off. Thanks for your input.

Update: Based on this chart, the 29A heater will draw roughly 60A when started.

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He told me the unit will not suffer form being completely powered on and off as it acts just like a HVAC unit that does the same thing.
You should not cut power while the unit is running.

The unit has to shut down properly when the compressor is running.

HVAC heat pumps do not have their entire power cut while they are running.

The compressor stops and the fan keeps running for a few minutes for proper shutdown.
 
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You could have just used a common wifi switch to control a contactor. I do this for my pool pump. The contactor is like $15. If it fails it's easy to replace and cheap. There might be a way to tie into the controls of the HP so it does turn on and off properly, again this can probably be done with a contactor too.
 
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See following thread, maybe @Rancho Cost-a-Lotta can chime in.

 
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You should not cut power while the unit is running.

The unit has to shut down properly when the compressor is running.

HVAC heat pumps do not have their entire power cut while they are running.

The compressor stops and the fan keeps running for a few minutes for proper shutdown.
This is true. I have seen the fan continue on after the heater shut of. I am sure if it powers of a few times like that it wouldn't hurt it, but regularly may be a problem. Perhaps this just isn't a good idea.
 
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See following thread, maybe @Rancho Cost-a-Lotta can chime in.

This is the latest version of Sonoff's WiFi smart switch with temp monitoring (replaces TH-16). It now features dry contacts for connection to the heater's fireman's switch. The fireman's circuit carries the 24 volt current. This switch merely interrupts the circuit so there is no call for heat. It cheaper though other sources, but most ship direct from China.


I have no experience with the JHX series heat pump, so I can't help with how to wire the unit to the heat pump.
 
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