Stain removal advise from Jacks Magic folks

markayash

Gold Supporter
Mar 21, 2016
2,439
Marietta Ga
I have been emailing them about which product to use for my Iron. Since I have a SWG they suggested Purple, their chart was a little confusing..
He was very helpful, My stains are gone but I wanted to make sure they don't return

But wanted to share these tips he sent me

Some other things that will help keep your pool clear of blemishes, stains etc.;
  • run the pump as continuously as possible. We have a saying: "Electricity is the cheapest chemical you can put in a pool". Nothing works without circulation: no blending of treatment chemicals, chlorine distribution, filtration of contaminants, heat distribution in the water, etc.
  • keep your returns pointed down not up or across. Chaos is good in pool water. When pointed down debris on the bottom of the pool gets displaced and lifted, allowing the filter to grab more of it. If you point your returns up you're actually layering the water, and with every bubble you're losing chlorine to the air, and heat if you have/use a pool heater. Homogenization is poor; nothing is mixing well.
  • when you add your sequestrant add it prior to adding maintenance chems or makeup/fill water. You want to "catch" stains not chase them. that way any minerals, metals, etc that can cause stains in those additives can be more easily captured by the actives in the Purple Stuff bc they're already in place. Chasing stains is slower, inefficient and often too late.
  • I know it can be difficult, but try to keep your pH in the 7.2-7.3 range. Water capacity to keep metals, minerals in solution is much greater at those levels than 7.5-8.0 or higher. And, your chlorine efficiency is also much greater at a lower pH, up to 3X more active at a pH of 7.0 vs 8.0. So, your salt cell won't have to run as much/long, extending it's life, bc you're chlorine is more efficiently added and used.
 

markayash

Gold Supporter
Mar 21, 2016
2,439
Marietta Ga
I have been emailing them about which product to use for my Iron. Since I have a SWG they suggested Purple, their chart was a little confusing..

He also said their stain remover isn't Vitamin C and won't deplete all your chlorine..

But wanted to share these tips he sent me

Some other things that will help keep your pool clear of blemishes, stains etc.;
  • run the pump as continuously as possible. We have a saying: "Electricity is the cheapest chemical you can put in a pool". Nothing works without circulation: no blending of treatment chemicals, chlorine distribution, filtration of contaminants, heat distribution in the water, etc.
  • keep your returns pointed down not up or across. Chaos is good in pool water. When pointed down debris on the bottom of the pool gets displaced and lifted, allowing the filter to grab more of it. If you point your returns up you're actually layering the water, and with every bubble you're losing chlorine to the air, and heat if you have/use a pool heater. Homogenization is poor; nothing is mixing well.
  • when you add your sequestrant add it prior to adding maintenance chems or makeup/fill water. You want to "catch" stains not chase them. that way any minerals, metals, etc that can cause stains in those additives can be more easily captured by the actives in the Purple Stuff bc they're already in place. Chasing stains is slower, inefficient and often too late.
  • I know it can be difficult, but try to keep your pH in the 7.2-7.3 range. Water capacity to keep metals, minerals in solution is much greater at those levels than 7.5-8.0 or higher. And, your chlorine efficiency is also much greater at a lower pH, up to 3X more active at a pH of 7.0 vs 8.0. So, your salt cell won't have to run as much/long, extending it's life, bc you're chlorine is more efficiently added and used.

He also said their stain remover isn't Vitamin C and won't deplete all your chlorine..

we have 3 different powder stain removers used in different combinations to react with different compositions of metallic, mineral or tannin stains. You always maintain a residual with ours, tho when one of them is involved with a particular treatment we do recommend keeping 1.0-1.5 and not shocking, tho the chemical itself does not deplete the chlorine.

when used as directive our stain removers only react with the stain, not the substrate it's attached to. So, no collateral issues like liners wrinkling, or print being removed, or removal of plaster or aggregate surfaces, causing roughness and deterioration. It usually takes a little longer bc we identify the composition first w a Stain ID Kit, add ONLY what reacted to the staining material, not something aggressive to try to dissolve everything including the pool surfaces, and it peels it off slowly like an onion skin. Much more directed, focused treatment.