Stable chemistry, cloudy after adding phosfree

Let’s fly all over the place here,

First, it’s very common for a pool to turn cloudy after adding phosphate removers. The lanthanum binds to the phosphates in the water and depending on the levels can cause a pool to go cloudy. Normally they filter out in 2-3 days. At times you can even see this reaction occurring as seen in this video.......but please be warned, somebody needs to learn how to hold a camera ?

Next however, I wouldn’t rule out algae growing in your water and what you’re looking at is a start of a bloom. Do you have any test kit at all we can get some test results from?

Let’s say it is an indicator of an algae bloom starting, what’s the easiest way to nip it in the butt right this moment and a guestimate of how long that will take
 
You need a proper test kit. When algae is present, you follow the SLAM Process. That is not possible with pool store tests.

You can easily get a test kit. You can order one in Canada and pay 3-5X as much as one will cost for you to send one to a mail drop in Niagara Falls and drive over and get it.
 
If you hang out around here it will all make sense. When I first started my own pool maintenance, it seemed so intimidating, but after a few months here, I feel like an expert.
It is not that hard to put it all together, this is the place to be.

Get that test kit and get at it!!!
 
Driving over to the Falls is not an option since the states made it mandatory to need a passport so I just need to work with what I got.

I’ve increased the cya some more. I increased the chlorine output and the pool is now Crystal clear however we are still having issues keeping the ph down. The pool store lady was no help when I gave them Crud about the “phosfree”

She claims she has to add ph- a few days a week in her salt water pool. Is that a real thing?

Seems the ph likes to climb throughout the night I’ve noticed as well. Not sure if that’s related to sunlight.

I appreciate everyone’s input it’s been helpful that’s for sure!
 

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Most pools require regular additions of muriatic acid to lower pH, it's not just salt water pools. This is very normal. Aeration (bubbles, waterfalls, splashing, etc.) raises pH and is actually the preferred way to raise pH if it is ever needed. Sunlight is not a factor. Does your SWCG run at night?

Don't use the pH- (sodium bisulfate) if you can help it as it can lead to corrosion of your equipment. Does your pool store have muriatic acid or just pH-? If not, try Home Depot or any other big box store.

Unfortunately it is going to be difficult if not almost impossible to help you properly without a good test kit. Is there anyone you know with a passport who can drive across the border for you? You CAN get the kit in Canada, although it is much more expensive.

Try the info in these threads:


 
The pH rise is due to the TA being too high and the CYA being too low.

Once you get those right, the pH rise should stop.

What is the current TA and what is the fill water TA?

What TA are you trying to maintain?
 
Most pools require regular additions of muriatic acid to lower pH, it's not just salt water pools. This is very normal. Aeration (bubbles, waterfalls, splashing, etc.) raises pH and is actually the preferred way to raise pH if it is ever needed. Sunlight is not a factor. Does your SWCG run at night?

Don't use the pH- (sodium bisulfate) if you can help it as it can lead to corrosion of your equipment. Does your pool store have muriatic acid or just pH-? If not, try Home Depot or any other big box store.

Unfortunately it is going to be difficult if not almost impossible to help you properly without a good test kit. Is there anyone you know with a passport who can drive across the border for you? You CAN get the kit in Canada, although it is much more expensive.

Try the info in these threads:



We’ve been using up some leftover ph- from last year, which was bought at Canadian tire (store brand) after some quick google searches it looks like it’s probably sodium bisulfate...so I guess I’m on the hunt now for muriatic acid lol
 
The pH rise is due to the TA being too high and the CYA being too low.

Once you get those right, the pH rise should stop.

What is the current TA and what is the fill water TA?

What TA are you trying to maintain?


I don’t know what I’m trying to maintain that’s why I’m here looking for help. I want a safe swimming pool that doesn’t turn colour. My alkalinity hasn’t been a problem thus far but I’m slowing increasing the CYA

My fear for increasing the CYA is that my father accidentally raised it to 143 ppm last year and had to drain it half. So I’m not letting him touch the chemistry this year.

My pool store allows me to bring in as many samples as I want free so I suppose while I’m trying to hunt a test kit I’ll continue to take advantage of this
 

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I have high phosphates and in the past when pool store says that is the breading ground for algae, I bought phosfree and added a ton to my pool.

But after joining TFP, I stopped listening to pool store guy and reach out these awesome members for any suggestions. It worked out well for the past 2 years. Before that I had to empty my pool every year and put ton of chemicals after each refill. Hated it.
 

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Most pools require regular additions of muriatic acid to lower pH, it's not just salt water pools. This is very normal. Aeration (bubbles, waterfalls, splashing, etc.) raises pH and is actually the preferred way to raise pH if it is ever needed. Sunlight is not a factor. Does your SWCG run at night?

Don't use the pH- (sodium bisulfate) if you can help it as it can lead to corrosion of your equipment. Does your pool store have muriatic acid or just pH-? If not, try Home Depot or any other big box store.

Unfortunately it is going to be difficult if not almost impossible to help you properly without a good test kit. Is there anyone you know with a passport who can drive across the border for you? You CAN get the kit in Canada, although it is much more expensive.

Try the info in these threads:


I’ll admit
There are many many things in this world that I know nothing about. But what’s the issue with getting a test kit shipped to Canada ?

What if you were to buy one from a 3rd party, such as eBay or Amazon ?
 
But what’s the issue with getting a test kit shipped to Canada ?
Taylor Technologies (the supplier of the reagents) has an exclusive contract with Lowry and Assoc to market their products in Canada. So, if a supplier ships the Taylor reagents to Canada, they can lose the ability to market Taylor reagents.

Lowry marks up the price of the K2006C by over 3X the price it is available in the USA.
 
Taylor Technologies (the supplier of the reagents) has an exclusive contract with Lowry and Assoc to market their products in Canada. So, if a supplier ships the Taylor reagents to Canada, they can lose the ability to market Taylor reagents.

Lowry marks up the price of the K2006C by over 3X the price it is available in the USA.
I wasn't able to make it to the US to by my kit either. I ordered it (K-2006) from Amazon for $150. Keep in mind that if you do get the 2006 and not the 2006-C you will need to by more
R-8071 as that is the reagent you will use the most. I had to buy a bottle(2oz.) off Amazon for $35 last week as I was performing a SLAM and was going through it very fast.
 
Phosphates are added to drinking water by municipal water systems.

Phosphates are used in municipal water systems to perform three broad functions: inhibit corrosion of water mains/plumbing (iron, steel, galvanized, asbestos/cement, lead, copper), sequester nuisance metals in the water supply
and Chloramines too... at first i didn’t believe they did...they do ... why some municipalities add CC’s , i guess from their perspective, they have their legitimate reasons, but just saying ... if they only knew what this does to pool owners water test scores ....
 
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