SPA heater, what would happen?

Pool Heater Manifold Gas Pressure Test with Differential Gas Pressure Manometer.
1735922943788.png


Jandy JXI Troubleshooting.

Jandy JXI Quick Reference Guide.

1735923104329.png


 
  • Like
Reactions: Hulaomr
1735925100634.png
1735924988907.png


STEP 7: Test Gas Orifice Offset Pressure.

NOTE: Test the gas orifice offset pressure with the heater running using a digital differential pressure manometer.

1. Reopen the gas shut-off valve.

2. Test the offset pressure with the heater running using a digital differential pressure manometer.

Connect a tee to the hose from the fan inlet port (see Figure 20) on the blower.

3. Connect a shorter hose from the gas valve vent port to the opposite side of the tee (see Figure 20).

4. The manometer has a positive (high pressure) port and a negative (low pressure) port.

Connect a hose on the third joint of the tee to the positive (high pressure) side of the manometer (see Figure 20).

5. Remove the NPT plug from the gas valve manifold port (labeled “PRESS” “TAP”) and screw in the barbed adapter.

6. Connect one end of a hose to the gas valve manifold port and the other end to the negative (low pressure) side of the manometer (see Figure 20).
7. Start the heater and record the gas offset pressure with the heater running and the gas valve sealing cap firmly in place.

8. Read offset pressure at the manometer.

Measurement should be –0.2 ʺ WC +/- 0.1 ʺ WC

9. If the offset pressure is incorrect, adjust pressure by removing the gas valve sealing cap and rotating the plastic screw using a blunttool, such as a fl at head screwdriver (see Figure 21).

To make an adjustment, rotate 1/4 turn in either direction.

To Increase offset pressure: Turn the plastic screw clockwise.

To Decrease offset pressure: Turn the plastic screw counter-clockwise.

10. Shut down the heater at the user interface.

11. Remove the tee and replace the hoses on the top vent port.

12. Remove the barbed adapter. Apply joint compound to the NPT plug and replace to seal the vent port.

1735925474741.png
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Hulaomr
Ok, looks like you need a new membrane pad.
In order to continue testing (while waiting for a replacement from overseas) I created a temporal pad with cables. I could setup the maximum set point, check the stack flue temperature and turn on the SPA.

Later on, I will use the EasyTouch.

1735937649833.png

1735937801394.png
 
  • Like
Reactions: JamesW
Note that the gas is connected to the suction side of the blower, so the manifold gas pressure is negative, which seems strange unless you have seen this before.

If the orifice is correct, maybe the gas valve is not opening 100%.

The previous gas pressure test showed a big drop from static to dynamic, but the dynamic was high enough that there should have been enough gas.

For the temperature rise test, you can install a thermistor downstream of the heater and measure the resistance to get a temperature.

For example, if the resistance measures 7,000 ohms, then you know the temperature is 92 degrees F (33.3°C).

(92°F − 32) × 5/9 = 33.3°C

You can use this formula to estimate the flow based on the temperature rise.

Y = temperature rise °F.

X = flow in gpm.

Y = 672/X

X = 672/Y.

672/(Outlet Temp °F - Inlet temp °F) = Flow in GPM.

You can also install one upstream of the heater to verify the heater water temperature reading.

Installation is easy.

You can use a Hayward, Jandy, Pentair or Generic 10K ohm thermistor.





1735937603583.png


1735937627846.png
1735937695738.png
1. Drill a 3/8” (10mm) diameter hole in the PVC piping and remove all chips and burrs.

2. Insert sensor until O-ring collar sits flush on the hole.

3. Position hose clamp over the sensor and gently tighten until O-ring makes an adequate seal.

Do not overtighten.
1735937764791.png
 
  • Like
Reactions: Hulaomr
Shorting pins 1 to 2 briefly is the same as pressing "Spa On". Pressing a button on the membrane pad shorts a pin (2 through 5) to pin 1 to make a selection. Pin 1 is the lowest pin and pin 6 is the highest pin.

1 to 2 ...spa on.
1 to 3...pool on.
1 to 4...heater off.
1 to 5...down arrow.
1 to 6...up arrow.
The following applies to the five-button keypads on the older MasterTemp heaters.

Pin 1 is the common wire. Shorting pins 1 to 2 briefly is the same as pressing "Spa On."

Pressing a button on the membrane pad shorts a pin (2 through 5) to pin 1 to make a selection.

Pin 1 is the lowest pin, and pin 6 is the highest pin.[40]

  • 1 to 2 ...spa on.
  • 1 to 3...pool on.
  • 1 to 4...heater off.
  • 1 to 5...down arrow.
  • 1 to 6...up arrow.
1735938323823.png
 
  • Like
Reactions: Hulaomr
Here is what the normal exhaust temperature should be:
  • Below 250 degrees...very low
  • 250 to 290 ..................low
  • 290 to 350.................acceptable
  • 350 to 480 ..................high
  • Above 480...................error/shutdown.
287.6 is close to being acceptable.

After fixing the membrane pad (temporal) and changing the cable connectors, the device is showing around 306F as the stack flue temperature. The device was ON (heating) during 15min already.

1735938590420.png

Check the orifice diameter
I check the orifice and it's as expected. Below some pictures.

The color of the metal union is due to rust remover, which I applied during the maintenance of the heater. Such part was a little rust and the remover protect it for further damaged.

1735938271993.png

1735938303944.png
1735938318587.png
 
  • Like
Reactions: JamesW

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
the device is showing around 306F as the stack flue temperature.
That is in the good range.

:goodjob:

Monitor the gas usage, the heating time of the Spa and the temperature differential from inlet to outlet.

Seems like it is working enough to keep the Spa heated.

Make sure the ventilation (Air Supply and Exhaust gas Ventilation) is sufficient for safety.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Hulaomr
For the temperature rise test, you can install a thermistor downstream of the heater and measure the resistance to get a temperature.
I will install a thermistor in the pipe just before the heater.

@JamesW, this will be ok to be used with the EasyTouch, right?
 
@JamesW, may I remove the auto valve in the picture? Taking in consideration the SPA pump will be running at 60GPM, I could leave the valve always open (as show the picture).

1735940045459.png

I could install the auto valve on the SPA return (as show the diagram below) coming from the filter/chlorinator?

In this way, during SPA operation, the cold water coming from the pool/filter is not going to the SPA.

1735940182528.png
 
Make sure the ventilation (Air Supply and Exhaust gas Ventilation) is sufficient for safety.

I could install a PVC pipe to the wall outside (as show the picture). Perhaps, I will be less worry if there are some chemicals in the room.

In other hand, I don't know yet how to be sure is sufficient the air intake of current room windows.

1735940464267.png
 
You need at least 30 minutes to really tell how fast the water is heating per minute.

Another test was performed, setting the device in Fahrenheit.

A video recording was made in the heater display.

StartFinish
1735942437233.png1735942425744.png

After reviewing the video, below the results.

1735942298417.png

The average time to change 1 degree F is 01m11s.
 
For 580 gallons, you should get about 70 degrees F per hour or about 1.16 degrees F per minute.
1 minute and 11 seconds is 0.85 degrees per minute, which is about 73% of the expected value.
So, you are using about 67% of the expected amount of gas.
So, we have two methods of estimating the heater capacity at 67% and 73%, which is fairly close alignment.
I will install a thermistor in the pipe just before the heater.
I would put one before the heater and one after the heater to get a temperature rise.

Using that and a flow rate will get us third method of estimating the heater capacity.
@JamesW, this will be ok to be used with the EasyTouch, right?
The EasyTouch should have a temperature sensor before the heater.
I could install a PVC pipe to the wall outside (as show the picture).
The PVC is for air intake/supply, not exhaust.

Exhaust needs proper metal venting.

Check the manifold gas pressure.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Hulaomr
You should not put unfiltered water through a heater as debris can clog the heater.

Thanks for pointing out this situation. I agree. It was the installation I found in the house: two circuits/pumps as show the diagram below.

Please, may you give me some suggestions based in the current installation. Perhaps, install another filter after the SPA pump or modify both circuits and remove one pump?

At least, all the water is filtered during normal operation (FILTER circuit)


1736009613432.png
1735940182528.png
 
Are you only going to want to heat the Spa and not the Pool?

You can put a filter after the Spa Pump before the heater or combine the Pool and Spa into one system with the ability to select which is operated.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.