Something has gone wrong with the pump

[Grnctrtl]

I came home around 8 pm last night to what sounds like my pump motor making a terrible noise. Kind of sounds like there’s something rattling/grinding around in there. It is still pumping water but was so loud that I turned it off anyway. It has been below freezing here for 2 days so it’s been running pretty much non stop and I’m fairly certain that the equipment is original to the pool from when it was built 10 years ago. There has also been a small leak between the pump and motor since we bought the house in September, probably even before that, but we’ve been busy with other things in the house and put it on the back burner. Maybe a bad idea in hindsight.

Here’s my question. My husband thinks he wants to try to fix it himself and take the motor off the pump and repair or replace it. He’s very handy and fixes almost everything around our house so I’m not doubting that he can, but how do you stop the water flow when you disassemble parts ofthe plumbing like that? Is this a job better left to a professional?

Also, since the equipment is so old, would getting a newer pump and motor, possibly a 2 speed, be a smarter option? Any recommendations?

Any help is appreciated. I’m pretty sure all my info is in my signature but if any more is needed, I will try to provide. Thank you.?

 

[Texas Splash]

Stacie, if your husband is as handy as you say, he can do it. When replacing a pump, you disconnect power then isolate the equipment pad from water by closing-off the valves before the pump basket and after the filter. That keeps water from flowing into the pad area. You definately want to replace the pump with something more efficient, and a 2-speed is a very good move. I have one and it's basically on low at all times unless I need high speed for vacuuming or something. Much easier on the eletcric bill.

When you get a chance, post a pic of your pump info. Or jot it all down and reply back. There should be a label on the motor somewhere with all the info (i.e. model#, HP, etc). One of our pump/motor experts like @JamesW will be glad to give you some recommendations for a good replacement. You can also call places like InyoPools and they can help as well.

 

[setsailsoon]

Stacie,

Sounds like you have a seal leak that is probably getting pool water on the bearing at the front of the motor. Cold weather seems to make this problem more noticable, possibly due to the contraction of parts that cause clearances to change. This is very typically the failure mode for pool pumps. There are a couple of other things that can cause loud noise but the repair procedure is very similar and very doable for a handy DIY'er. I've done it myself and helped many others do it. There are fantastic video's that go through the details. He will need to be comfortable with 220v wiring and he will need to follow safety precautions meticulously. If he's not comfortable with the electrical he should hire an electrician. Even this approach can save money. Here are some things to consider:

• After the electric disconnect this job is pretty easy.
• If you've never done this, you should consider replacing the motor or taking it to a local electric motor rebuilding shop. There are several in most large cities. The reason for this is that the long skinny bolts that hold the motor together are usually corroded to the front housing and will snap when you try to turn them. This is fixable but can be difficult.
• Disassemble the pump (very easy) and replace the mechanical seal. This caused the problem in the first place. The seal is about $20 online.
• Whether you repair or replace the pump you should remove the long bolts on the new motor one at a time and coat the threads with anti-seize, this will make it much easier to replace the motor bearing yourself next time.
• This is a great time to consider moving to a 2-speed or variable speed pump. Both options can save you money and the more you spend the bigger the savings. Both can pay out if done right. The most efficient pump is by far the variable speed and the extra cost usually pays out in a year. These pumps contain extremely strong permanent magnets are are very difficult or impossible for the DIY'er to repair. If they fail you should get it repaired by a qualified electrical shop. You can search this site for great expert advice on the benefits of upgrading your pump and how to select the one that's best for you.
• Properly maintained pumps can last 15-20 years and most repair parts are readily available.
• I mentioned that this problem can be caused by other problems. These include debris in the fan or pump, cracked, impeller or diffuser but they are all repairable by disassembly of the pump and replace the defective parts. With the water leak you describe it is more likely the problem is a seal failure.

I hope this is helpful, and good luck!

Chris

 

[Arizonarob]

If it were me, I would just replace the whole thing. If all the equipment IS original as you suspect, IMO it’s not worth rebuilding the motor.
I always error on the side of caution, and just for piece of mind, I’d install a whole new pump.

 

[tstex]

I agree w Rob - buy a newer more efficient pump and it will pay for itself over time...if you do not have automation, you van buy any make/model pump...they are certainly not all the same...

 

[setsailsoon]

If it were me, I would just replace the whole thing. If all the equipment IS original as you suspect, IMO it’s not worth rebuilding the motor.
I always error on the side of caution, and just for piece of mind, I’d install a whole new pump.

Hard to argue with caution...for many (most) this is the right approach. I'm too cheap and I like to tinker too much to do it this way though.

Replace is a good way to go also.

Chris

 

[Grnctrtl]

Thank you all for the replies. Here are some pics of the equipment and pad. I really never had the time to get into the ins and outs of the plumbing before it got too cold and I no longer wanted to mess with the cold water. I’ve just been keeping up with winter chemicals, which has been easy. I still can’t figure out if there’s a valve anywhere to shut off the water flow. The only valve I have that moves is the one that turns on/off the waterfalls. There are mechanical timers on the each of the 2 pumps but that’s all the “automation” there is.

 

[HeyEng]

The pool is IG, so unless the pool is above the equipment pad, there won't be an "escape" of water when you go to replace the pump.

 

[mas985]

If you want to replace the motor with an exact replica, the number is on the label "UST1202".
Amazon.com: Century Electric UST1202 2-Horsepower Up-Rated Round Flange Replacement Motor (Formerly A.O. Smith): Garden & Outdoor
Comes with a go-kit too!


But are you sure you need a pump that large? It will save you money (75%+) in the long run to get a two speed or VS pump.

The two speed motor version for that pump is the B2979. But you will need to get a go-kit for this:

https://www.amazon.com/Smith-B2979-...r&qid=1551918400&s=lawn-garden&sr=1-1-catcorr

Note that this motor is larger in diameter than your current motor but you should be able to remove the motor support shim to allow it to fit. But check first that yours has the removeable shim.

 

[JamesW]

The pump was made in November 2012.

The motor is a replacement. It was made on February 14 2017 (Tuesday. Valentine's day).

If you want to replace just the motor with a single speed motor, I would suggest that you reduce the hp significantly unless you need that much power.

If you go with a 1.0 total hp motor, you would need to replace the impeller, seal, diffuser and wear ring.

Impeller...SPX3007C
Diffuser...SPX3000BN
Wear ring...SPX3005R
Seal.......... PS-3868
Diffuser gasket...SPX1600R
Housing gasket...SPX3000T
Lid O-ring...SPX3000S

Note: Get a good seal. The cheapo seal will eventually leak and ruin the motor, especially if the pump runs dry.

The cheap seal has a Phenolic (Plastic) Primary Ring. The better seal has a carbon primary ring. The best seal has a silicon carbide primary ring.

A pump seal rotates 1 billion times for every 201 days of operation (24 hr/day).

You should replace the electrical fitting going into the motor because it is broken.

The Polaris booster pump suction is plumbed incorrectly. It is getting its supply from before the filter which is going to cause the Polaris screen to clog with small debris. The Polaris supply should be connected after the filter so that the pump gets clean water.

You should consider switching to a salt system instead of using the tab feeder.

 

[Texas Splash]

Well Stacie, I don't think you can get much better advice that those last couple posts. Keep us posted on how things go.

 

[Grnctrtl]

Thank you all so much! This all has been so helpful. It turns out that the pump did indeed need to be replaced. We called our home warranty company and fortunately because we purchased protection for the pool, it was covered. New pump installed today, and by someone who knew what he was doing! Unfortunately it was a one for one replacement so we still have a one speed 2.0 hp motor. We plan to upgrade it eventually because from what I’ve read, and what y’all have said, that is just too much for our pool. But for now, the cost savings and having the pool fixed and working is what we needed. I’m so thankful for all your help. This forum is indispensable.

 

[setsailsoon]

Stacie,

Great to hear this! In the future you may be able to convert to a 2-speed motor that will give some of the benefit and will help if you ever switch to SWG.

Chris