Some questions about purchasing a pool heater

[boilerbdub]

Hi, I need to purchase a new pool heater as mine is toast. It's finally rusted through the heating element and leaking water. It's a Raypak 2100 and the model year I check is from 1998-2003 so it had a very good run. It's a 180k BTU and it does a good enough job for me so I don't think I need to upgrade too much.

I was looking at getting another Raypak. The pool company recommended the Raypak 266 (240k BTU) with Cupro-Nickel upgrade for $3,700 all in.

I want to install myself and had some questions maybe you guys can help with.

1. From most posts the purchase of the Cupro-Nickel upgrade really isn't worth it. Is this correct? *Since my current one lasted so long I would agree.
2. My PH is usually on the high end, from what I understand the PH being low creates risk to the heater. Is this correct?
3. I add Muriatic Acid to the deep end to reduce the PH, is this a bad idea as it can hurt the heater? Or does the acid dilute enough to not cause an issue? My PH never really gets too low even with the acid added.
4. I'm pretty handy as I replaced almost everything in my pool except the heater and liner. I'm wanting to install myself. Any tutorials you recommend?

Thanks,

Brendan

 

[BowserB]

Check out the pool school. pH is not a problem in the middle of the range. I add acid as far away from the skimmers as I can. Heater size? I have 15k gallons in Houston, and my heater is "adequate" at 400k BTU. You must be really patient if 180k BTU was OK with you. When we decide to use the spa in winter 40-50 degrees minimum, the Mastertemp 400 will get the spa water to 100 degrees in about 25 minutes, and that's about right. In spring, depending on ambient temp, the heater will raise the temp of our pool about 1 degree per 20-25 minutes. Faster if the air temp is warmer, longer if it's colder. For 20K gallons in Indiana, I'm not sure I could get enough heat for my wife (She insisted over the weekend that we run the heater...water temp started at 89 degrees, and the air temp was 93 and it was sunny. We headed the water to 92. It took about an hour.) Installation? I don't DIY, so no suggestions.

 

[boilerbdub]

Check out the pool school. pH is not a problem in the middle of the range. I add acid as far away from the skimmers as I can. Heater size? I have 15k gallons in Houston, and my heater is "adequate" at 400k BTU. You must be really patient if 180k BTU was OK with you. When we decide to use the spa in winter 40-50 degrees minimum, the Mastertemp 400 will get the spa water to 100 degrees in about 25 minutes, and that's about right. In spring, depending on ambient temp, the heater will raise the temp of our pool about 1 degree per 20-25 minutes. Faster if the air temp is warmer, longer if it's colder. For 20K gallons in Indiana, I'm not sure I could get enough heat for my wife (She insisted over the weekend that we run the heater...water temp started at 89 degrees, and the air temp was 93 and it was sunny. We headed the water to 92. It took about an hour.) Installation? I don't DIY, so no suggestions.

Yea I’m pretty cheap so I don’t run the heater very much. In the summer with the humidity the heater is barely needed. Thanks for the info!

 

[ajw22]

1. From most posts the purchase of the Cupro-Nickel upgrade really isn't worth it. Is this correct? *Since my current one lasted so long I would agree.

Cupro Nickel is not necessary but may be nice to have. You will never know if the money for it was well spent or wasted.

2. My PH is usually on the high end, from what I understand the PH being low creates risk to the heater. Is this correct?

Correct. PH below 7 can erode the heat exchange. HIgh pH can cause calcium scaling in the heat exchanger. Keep pH int he 7's and you will be fine.

I recommend all gas pool heaters have a Heater Bypass - Heater Bypass - Further Reading Then if your pH is questionable just bypass the heater to prevent any damage.

3. I add Muriatic Acid to the deep end to reduce the PH, is this a bad idea as it can hurt the heater? Or does the acid dilute enough to not cause an issue? My PH never really gets too low even with the acid added.

I do the same and the acid dilutes before it gets near the skimmer.

4. I'm pretty handy as I replaced almost everything in my pool except the heater and liner. I'm wanting to install myself. Any tutorials you recommend?

DIY a heater works out well for some folks and some have problems getting it running properly. Raypak is not much help for DIY warranty support. They tell you to contact a local authorized dealer and most of them tell you they don't service heaters they don't install.