My softub has the same problem and I'm going to try the capacitor trick but was wondering since those of you who have done it before (back in 2021) how it it working Now
Thanks
Thanks
Softub motor cycling on and off repeatedly
- Thread starter dunetubbies
- Start date
No water or the air lines need to be disconnected to get at the main PCB unit to install these capacitors. The digital control unit with airline attached can just be moved out of the ay while you get at the PCB.
Just found this thread/fix and it worked to fix our short cycling issue that just started happening after 5 years of problem free ownership!! Thanks so much for the detailed information. Fingers crossed it continues to work. Cheers.
Hello,
A relative just sold me his Softub 220 as he was frustrated about the short cycling issue despite having the board replaced twice.
It is having the issue heating up to 120 degrees from (I assume) this short cycling problem.
I ordered two of the capacitors from Amazon:
After installing them, I set the temp to 99 and came out the next morning and it was in the idle position with the 'P' on and temperature read 99 on display and with my thermometer. So I thought the fix worked. So then I set it to 103 and I went back out to the softub this morning and it was up to 113 fahrenheit degrees.
The 'P' was on the display even though the pump was still running. I used a thermometer to get the temperature as the display was showing that I had it set to 103, but it wasn't showing the current temp of 113.
Has anyone with the C-2013 board had the capacitors NOT work, but sending it to Lyratronix afterwards worked successfully? I don't want to bother sending to them if their fix isn't likely to work either?
Anything else I should check in here? Thank you
A relative just sold me his Softub 220 as he was frustrated about the short cycling issue despite having the board replaced twice.
It is having the issue heating up to 120 degrees from (I assume) this short cycling problem.
I ordered two of the capacitors from Amazon:
After installing them, I set the temp to 99 and came out the next morning and it was in the idle position with the 'P' on and temperature read 99 on display and with my thermometer. So I thought the fix worked. So then I set it to 103 and I went back out to the softub this morning and it was up to 113 fahrenheit degrees.
The 'P' was on the display even though the pump was still running. I used a thermometer to get the temperature as the display was showing that I had it set to 103, but it wasn't showing the current temp of 113.
Has anyone with the C-2013 board had the capacitors NOT work, but sending it to Lyratronix afterwards worked successfully? I don't want to bother sending to them if their fix isn't likely to work either?
Anything else I should check in here? Thank you
I am based in the UK and have a T220, bought 3.5 years ago. Earlier this year it started the cycling problem and temperature was unstable (apologies if I use C at any time instead of F, being in the UK!). I foolishly didn't do anything at this stage (although I didn't then know of this forum). I did contact Softub and found out about the high costs of repair/replacement parts. Unluckily, here in the UK, we only get 2 years warranty. After a while, the tub stopped working all together, with nothing at all on the display.
Then, reading on this forum about all the problems and solutions, I realised that I didn't want to be beholden to Softub proprietary parts, particularly if they don't last much more than 2-3 years, as is reported. I am lucky enough to be an electronics engineer, but even I am stymied by the lack of a circuit diagram, programming details and the lack of any ID on most of the chips on board, including the main controller. However, I am still giving repair a go and I thought I'd add my experiences to 'knowledge share' in the hope that I can help someone and be helped as well.
I took the C-2013 control board out and analysed it. There are a couple of PCB-mount square relays which switch the mains to the pump - one had melted and stuck to the other and there was a burnt area on the board. However, I managed to desolder these two and replaced them - also a 6-pin optoisolator next to them, which may have been damaged. I can forward details of these parts to anyone that wants them. I have worked out some of the connection details around the board by tracing the tracking. I was able to put the board on the bench and apply AC power on the spades J6,7,8 - I could then measure 5V on the connectors running to the display panel (6 pin connector) and temperature probes (3 pin connector). So the Switch-Mode Power Supply appears to work. This is the supply where everybody is putting a cap to stabilise the level. I could also measure 5V at the micro, which is a 28-pin chip that I believe someone identified as a PIC. I don't know which particular one, but the 5V supply pins are pins 9 and 10 and C20 is the decoupling capacitor (someone also mentioned that upthread).
At this point I was confident of repair success, but unfortunately, my display panel is still dead, so I don't know whether that is the problem, or the PIC is dead and not driving it. I do want to get further, but need to do more investigation and if it is the PIC, I will struggle to repair/replace that without extracting the program (although maybe possible using JTAG).
If anyone can add to my detail, please do. I also applied mains to the pump for a few seconds (no water, so no longer) and it at least spun. BTW, PSO, don't play around with mains connections if you don't know what you are doing!
All for now, thanks for listening.
Then, reading on this forum about all the problems and solutions, I realised that I didn't want to be beholden to Softub proprietary parts, particularly if they don't last much more than 2-3 years, as is reported. I am lucky enough to be an electronics engineer, but even I am stymied by the lack of a circuit diagram, programming details and the lack of any ID on most of the chips on board, including the main controller. However, I am still giving repair a go and I thought I'd add my experiences to 'knowledge share' in the hope that I can help someone and be helped as well.
I took the C-2013 control board out and analysed it. There are a couple of PCB-mount square relays which switch the mains to the pump - one had melted and stuck to the other and there was a burnt area on the board. However, I managed to desolder these two and replaced them - also a 6-pin optoisolator next to them, which may have been damaged. I can forward details of these parts to anyone that wants them. I have worked out some of the connection details around the board by tracing the tracking. I was able to put the board on the bench and apply AC power on the spades J6,7,8 - I could then measure 5V on the connectors running to the display panel (6 pin connector) and temperature probes (3 pin connector). So the Switch-Mode Power Supply appears to work. This is the supply where everybody is putting a cap to stabilise the level. I could also measure 5V at the micro, which is a 28-pin chip that I believe someone identified as a PIC. I don't know which particular one, but the 5V supply pins are pins 9 and 10 and C20 is the decoupling capacitor (someone also mentioned that upthread).
At this point I was confident of repair success, but unfortunately, my display panel is still dead, so I don't know whether that is the problem, or the PIC is dead and not driving it. I do want to get further, but need to do more investigation and if it is the PIC, I will struggle to repair/replace that without extracting the program (although maybe possible using JTAG).
If anyone can add to my detail, please do. I also applied mains to the pump for a few seconds (no water, so no longer) and it at least spun. BTW, PSO, don't play around with mains connections if you don't know what you are doing!
All for now, thanks for listening.
Update, though not much. I was told that the control board would work without the display, just heating to a default temp, but when I tried this, it didn't run the motor. Just a click at power up and a 2nd click after about 5s. 5V rail was measuring 5.3V between clicks and over 6V at the 2nd click - which is a little worrying. Guess it's the board power supply or the PIC - stand a chance of replacing the first, but don't have enough detail on the second 
I had the same problem and fixed it by adding these 10×25 capacitors ,it's been 3 weeks no problem. No solder just pushed the legs into the red and black holes. I saw the fix on another thread and tried it and it worked, I ordered the capacitors from Amazon for under 10 bucks. I hope it helps
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So I tackled this today, Very simple fix. I ordered capacitors from Amazon for $16 and now have more than I could use before I die. I stuck a rock under one side to give the Hydromate a slight lift, carefully used needle nose pliers to loosen the rope (if you’ve never taken yours apart this part might be a struggle). The knot itself doesn’t have to be completely undone you can pull the loop that’s tightening down on the end used to tighten it around the Hydromate. After that I used bungee chords to lift the top and hold it in place as I worked. Nothing was disconnected from the tub besides the lighting wire. I undid two screws on top front and back using a stubby Phillips and slid the circuit board out. I did not use bipolar caps. So anyone curious which side is the positive and which is the negative. Red is positive and Black is negative. I unplugged the wires from the board which made it easier to slide the caps in. I clipped the caps and put them in place and plugged everything back in and tested it and it worked immediately. I put everything back together and heard the most beautiful sounds I’ve heard in the last month…. Silence. Thank you everyone for the advice my Wife is happy and my wallet is heavier because of it!
Hi all,
I just wanted to drop in to give an update on my situation. If you scroll back a few pages, you will see my posts on doing the capacitor fix. I did this almost 2 years to the day. My softub stopped working about a month ago. There was power running to the Hydromate, but the device would click and not turn the pump on. And doing some more research, I happened upon the softub Facebook group (which is surprisingly fairly active). A number of people have complained about the short cycling problem and other problems with the circuit board. I found out that there is a third-party company called Lyratronix that will repair the circuit board for these issues. I believe the repair is $150. I took out the circuit board and mailed it to them. They had it back to me in seven days. I installed it yesterday and everything is working beautifully.
As an aside, according to some of the experts on the softub group, they do not believe the capacitor fix is really a fix, or a long-term solution for the failing circuit board. With n=1, I was able to get two years of softub use with the capacitor fix. Hopefully this Lyratronix fix will be a more permanent solution.
(as an aside if you are going to take out the circuitboard, make sure you take plenty of pictures and/or videos of the process including the location of where the ground wires ground wires connect (ask me how I know this is important!).
I just wanted to drop in to give an update on my situation. If you scroll back a few pages, you will see my posts on doing the capacitor fix. I did this almost 2 years to the day. My softub stopped working about a month ago. There was power running to the Hydromate, but the device would click and not turn the pump on. And doing some more research, I happened upon the softub Facebook group (which is surprisingly fairly active). A number of people have complained about the short cycling problem and other problems with the circuit board. I found out that there is a third-party company called Lyratronix that will repair the circuit board for these issues. I believe the repair is $150. I took out the circuit board and mailed it to them. They had it back to me in seven days. I installed it yesterday and everything is working beautifully.
As an aside, according to some of the experts on the softub group, they do not believe the capacitor fix is really a fix, or a long-term solution for the failing circuit board. With n=1, I was able to get two years of softub use with the capacitor fix. Hopefully this Lyratronix fix will be a more permanent solution.
(as an aside if you are going to take out the circuitboard, make sure you take plenty of pictures and/or videos of the process including the location of where the ground wires ground wires connect (ask me how I know this is important!).
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- Jun 1, 2018
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thanks for the update!!Hello after i put the 10uf capicitor power on I get temperature 00 and the led prom heat a filter burning permanently. Furthe the hydrofoor is dead? I remove de Capicitors but it still the same. What is the problem ?
The Solution Lyratronix?????
Ultimately, I took up the offer on the Lyratronix website to have the circuit board repaired for 125 euros excluding shipping costs. I emailed Mr. Joel in advance. about placing the 10uf capacitors on the plus and minus of the temperature sensors, which he thinks is a bad idea. After a week I received a message that the circuit board had been repaired. The next day I received an invoice not for the agreed 125 euros but for 150 euros excluding transport. Without any consultation, Mr. Joel increased the price. It would have to do with the lack of an IOSS number for my country, which he does not have. In the end I wrote to him that I thought it was fine and hoped that the repair would be carried out as agreed. I shouldn't have said that about Mr. Joel. Without consultation he sent me a new invoice with only the shipping costs. Without repair costs. He had broken the circuit board again. If I didn't quickly order UPS to pick up the package, he would throw it away. I did that and indeed received the printed circuit board back, not repaired. A very strange way of doing business to say the least!
I've been doing a little research. The plus and minus of the temperature sensors are in parallel with the output capacitor c18. That is probably why the capacitor is often OK when installing, read the forum. but probably the 100uf electrolytic capacitor has dried up. position c18. If this is not the case, the regulator lm25011: SZFB will have to be replaced.
Today I replace Capicitor c18 and c16 100 uf 50 volt / 16 volt. voltage 5 volt again stable. Problem switch on and off fixed. Cost 50 cent and a little bit time.
Ultimately, I took up the offer on the Lyratronix website to have the circuit board repaired for 125 euros excluding shipping costs. I emailed Mr. Joel in advance. about placing the 10uf capacitors on the plus and minus of the temperature sensors, which he thinks is a bad idea. After a week I received a message that the circuit board had been repaired. The next day I received an invoice not for the agreed 125 euros but for 150 euros excluding transport. Without any consultation, Mr. Joel increased the price. It would have to do with the lack of an IOSS number for my country, which he does not have. In the end I wrote to him that I thought it was fine and hoped that the repair would be carried out as agreed. I shouldn't have said that about Mr. Joel. Without consultation he sent me a new invoice with only the shipping costs. Without repair costs. He had broken the circuit board again. If I didn't quickly order UPS to pick up the package, he would throw it away. I did that and indeed received the printed circuit board back, not repaired. A very strange way of doing business to say the least!
I've been doing a little research. The plus and minus of the temperature sensors are in parallel with the output capacitor c18. That is probably why the capacitor is often OK when installing, read the forum. but probably the 100uf electrolytic capacitor has dried up. position c18. If this is not the case, the regulator lm25011: SZFB will have to be replaced.
Today I replace Capicitor c18 and c16 100 uf 50 volt / 16 volt. voltage 5 volt again stable. Problem switch on and off fixed. Cost 50 cent and a little bit time.
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Same problem with short cycling. Purchased fall of 2019. Same board as above. I went ahead and pulled the whole board and replaced c16&c18. The smaller one (c18) is supposed to be 100uf. It was bulging - sign of something bad. It read 38uf when I first removed it and tested. Replaced with some quality caps I had laying around from various audio projects. I think it is undersized and should be the same voltage as c16. If this reoccurs that is next. If you choose to remove the bad caps vs inserting subs in the wires - please note. They glued the caps down and it is a pain getting them out. In addition the hole will have some glue and residual solder. Recommend you find a very thin needle, put in some locking forceps or needle nose pliers and run it through hot to clear the lead holes. Also, use your nn pliers to remove the thicker attached wires. Not the ones in the clips but the ones with heat shrink around them. They will snap off if you just pull the wire.
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Good day all, it sounds like I’ve encountered the dreaded short cycling. I know have the hydro mate apart and going to attempt the capacitor fix tomorrow. The only thing visually that looks off is the upper board attached to the air flow control. Please see picture attached. Is the normal with the board encased in resin.
