So, pools are hard work then?

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Maaaaan, Dirk...that's a complicated reply.

So, I'm assuming that somewhere over at the valves there'll be a knob that allows me to set the vacuum/pump ratio?

I've not seen a great improvement in my water color so I had a wee search and based on findings I cleaned the filter. I had done this before but only in a bucket whereas I looked up how to do it properly and used the hose. There was certainly a difference. I've put it back in, brushed the pool again, have the vacuum on and just dumped another gallon of bleach in so hopefully I see a difference in the morning. I was hoping my parts and test kit would be here today but looks like Monday.

I have the inlaws coming from Scotland on Tuesday so was really hoping to have this sorted by then as it's the first time they'll have seen the house but it's not looking good.

Another stupid question but how is the water removed from the pool?. When the vacuum is on that's obvious but when the vacuum isn't on that inlet is closed tight. Is there another suction/drain thing I'm just not seeing?
 
How about some pics of your pool and equipment so we can see what you are dealing with and can help you better.
 
Water enters the pool via returns. Sometimes water features. Sometimes pressure-side vacuum systems.

Water is "removed" from a pool via the drain(s) and the skimmer(s). Sometimes suction-side vacuum systems.

But there are a few other ways (for both) and not every pool does it the same way. Some times every component has its own valve, back at the equipment pad. Other times two components will share a three-way valve that allows you to dial one up as the other gets dialed down.

So, I'm assuming that somewhere over at the valves there'll be a knob that allows me to set the vacuum/pump ratio?
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Not necessarily. Just as there are different paths the water might take, there are different systems (valves, etc) that control all that.

And I wasn't describing the "ratio" of vacuum to pump. My system allows me to control the ratio of vacuum to skimmer. The pump can pull water from one, the other, or both, in any ratio.

Picture a Y intersection. The pump is on the stem (bottom) of the Y. The skimmer is on one arm of the Y, the vacuum is on the other arm. A three-way valve is at the intersection of all three (arms and stem). The pump is pulling water down the Y. The three-way valve can move left, so all the water comes from the skimmer, or right, so all the water comes from the vacuum. Or anywhere in between left and right, so some amount of water comes from each. Still with me? If I have the valve set so half the water is coming from each, skimmer and vac, then they'll each get about half the suction power. The vac will be a little weak, as will the skimmer. But if I crank the valve over, so that no water is sucked through the skimmer, then the vac will perform twice as well. And vice versa.

But we don't yet know how your equipment and plumbing are set up, I'm just describing my pool. As Allen is suggesting, post some pics of your pad, from a few angles, and we can better help you to figure out what does what.

While you're at it, let's get your signature filled in, so we know what kind of pool and equipment your have.
 
I'll get some pics up today.

I can't fill my signature in, I know it's a pre-req, but honestly I don't even know those details. I dont know how big the pool is or what type, etc. There was no documentation handed over with the house so I'm a bit in the dark.

I'll fill in what I know, post the pics and take it from there. Actually, I know pinch-a-penny have the pool on file as it was there when I gave them my address so I'll pop in there today.
 
The picture will help us help you fill in your siggy. Go out to your equipment with paper and a pen. Write down any info you find on the pump and filter. Look for brand names and size. Are the sides of your pool "concrete" feeling or does it feel like they have vinyl liner?
 
OK, I've been to Pinch a Penny and got some info to update my sig. If there's anything missing let me know from the pics below.

I explained that I had been shocking the pool to no effect and gave him a water sample (results below) and he said the water is fine but I may need to open the skimmer and main drain valves to get the circulation going (I explained the vac was running and when i removed it the over spill from the jacuzzi to pool reduces).

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So, I guess what I really need confirmation on is if my valves are set properly. The skimmer is labelled on the left and the drain is two to the right (cleaner is the middle one).

I just moved them to those positions as the skimmer was diagonal and the drain was vertical (needed a hammer to move it).

I will post my algae issues in an appropriate section of the forum, with pics.


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Assuming your Pinch-A-Penny test results are accurate, you will not fix an algae problem with a FC of 3 when you have CYA of 60. FC of 3 with CYA 60 is not good even without an algae problem. Please study this chart -- [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. You need to get your FC up to 24 to combat your algae following the SLAM Process process.

When did you last add chlorine relative to when you took the water sample for the test you posted?

I believe you have a test kit on order. Whatever amount of chlorine you are adding to your pool daily you should triple it until you get your test kit and can measure high chlorine levels.
 
I'd just added more chlorine prior to testing, actually.

What about those shock packs? The guy in PaP tried to sell me those but I told him I'd rather stick to chlorine but looks like I'll need to go back over to get A LOT more bleach.
 
Mandela said:
I'd just added more chlorine prior to testing, actually.

What about those shock packs? The guy in PaP tried to sell me those but I told him I'd rather stick to chlorine but looks like I'll need to go back over to get A LOT more bleach.
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You just want to use pure liquid chlorine AKA bleach. Shock packs contain other chemicals you don't want in your pool. Bleach is the most economical way to buy chlorine.

Yes, clearing an algae problem can take lots of bleach. Folks have gone through 50 or more gallons in the SLAM Process process. Getting the highest concentration bleach you can get - 12% - helps.
 
You have to keep an eye on chlorine manufacturing dates. The fresher the chlorine, the more economical the process. You don't want to be buying leftover summer stock. And the higher the concentration, the faster it degrades, so if you go shopping for 12%, it's even more important that you get the freshest jugs you can find.

Watch out for stocking methods. I spotted this at Lowes when I first learned about the date codes. I could clearly see they were piling the newest chlorine on top, which is fine for us in the know, but some poor shlep was eventually going to get stuck with the stuff underneath, which might be a year old by then, or worse.

Chlorine Date Code Decoder/Easy Way to Measure Strength.
 

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Noted. Thanks, Dirk.

I just picked up a load of liquid chlorine. I was paying $2.90 for a gallon of 6% bleach but seen the 10% pool stuff in Walmart for $3.40 so picked up 14 gallons. I'll probably need that and more for the SLAM. Just waiting on the test kit coming now to get started.
 
Mandela said:
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My SLAM is going well. i started this thread so thanks for al the help in here: Likely mustard algea but not dispersing - SLAM UPDATES

One other basic question - as you can see from the pics I have a hose connected to my pool plumbing. Can I use that as a general hose? Is there anything I need to be aware of?

I haven't used it as I assumed it would be pool water.

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Also, my parts to replace the SW Cell and interface are still not here but it doesn't matter as i'm still in the SLAM process. I guess even after the process I can simply manage my pool as a chlorine pool.
 
Yes, that hose would be pool water. It's typically used for draining a pool. You wouldn't use it as a "general hose" as it would take water out of the pool. It will only work while the pump is running.

If your pool is not equipped with an overflow system, and it got full due to rain, you'd run the pump and open that valve to bring the pool's water level back down.

Yes, manage your SLAM without the SWG. Then manage the pool with liquid chlorine after the SLAM until your new SWG is on line and setup correctly.
 
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