So I found the leak, now what? :)

[Emiliano]

So I have a leak at one of the inlet ports and at the light (videos bellow). Depending on the difficult for each one I might end up calling someone, but even in that case I would like to understand what are the step in repair the leak at this two fittings.

• Light Leak
• Inlet Port Leak

Thanks!

 

[Texas Splash]

For the light, it depends. What you are seeing is the dye being pulled behind the fixture into the niche which is always full of water anyway. The key is why. After removing the light, then you have to look to see if the niche itself is cracked (usually at the rear) or if it's the conduit behind it that carries the wires. Sometimes the niche shell cracks, and sometimes the conduit PVC line breaks, both of which can allow water to seep out. The repair method can vary depending on which one it is.

As for the second video, is that a suction line port that goes back to the pump?

 

[JamesW]

Those tests are not valid.

The light is in a niche and you need to remove the light and check the conduit.

The return hole is too big and you need to isolate the lines and make the test hole smaller.

You can pressure test the returns and suction lines to see if they hold pressure or if they leak.

 

[Emiliano]

Those tests are not valid.

The light is in a niche and you need to remove the light and check the conduit.

The return hole is too big and you need to isolate the lines and make the test hole smaller.

You can pressure test the returns and suction lines to see if they hold pressure or if they leak.

When you say they are not valid you mean that "there might not be a leak" or "there is a leak but they are not precise enough"?

 

[JamesW]

The tests are not being done correctly, so they do not mean anything.

 

[Emiliano]

For the light, it depends. What you are seeing is the dye being pulled behind the fixture into the niche which is always full of water anyway. The key is why. After removing the light, then you have to look to see if the niche itself is cracked (usually at the rear) or if it's the conduit behind it that carries the wires. Sometimes the niche shell cracks, and sometimes the conduit PVC line breaks, both of which can allow water to seep out. The repair method can vary depending on which one it is.

As for the second video, is that a suction line port that goes back to the pump?

The second is one is a water outlets that come from the pump. This is the only one out of three that is sucking the die.

 

[Texas Splash]

The second is one is a water outlets that come from the pump. This is the only one out of three that is sucking the die.

As James noted, plumbing lines can be a bit tricky depending on how the line(s) were plumbed and any valves along those lines. A pressure test with listening devices would be ideal since the dye only means that water is moving into the fitting, but it's difficult to know where without exposing the plumbing or having the right equipment. Maybe you could post some pics of the equipment pad and pool from various angles?

 

[Emiliano]

The tests are not being done correctly, so they do not mean anything.

I have some other indications that there is a leak. The pool has been losing water at 1"a day until it got to the Inlet ports lines where it stopped. I did a bucket test and it didn't go down as much as the pool. The other two inlet ports aren't sucking the die while this does. I understand I can't tell where exactly the leak is but, don't you think there is a leak related to that inlet port?

 

[JamesW]

The other two inlet ports aren't sucking the die while this does. I understand I can't tell where exactly the leak is but, don't you think there is a leak related to that inlet port?

The returns are all connected.

If there is a leak, then they would all pull in dye.

You have to properly isolate the lines and use a smaller hole to do a valid dye test.

You are not doing the test correctly, so it tells you nothing.

It does not tell you that there is a leak and it does not tell you that there is no leak.

You would need to pressure test to confirm the lines are leaking or not leaking.

 

[Emiliano]

As James noted, plumbing lines can be a bit tricky depending on how the line(s) were plumbed and any valves along those lines. A pressure test with listening devices would be ideal since the dye only means that water is moving into the fitting, but it's difficult to know where without exposing the plumbing or having the right equipment. Maybe you could post some pics of the equipment pad and pool from various angles?

Ok, I understand I'm lacking precession to pin point where the leak is. So you suggest I bring someone in to better isolate the problem before moving into the repair stage.

This is a Picture of the PAD. All the three Outlet Ports come from the same pipe at the pad. There is no valve separating them.

 

[Emiliano]

The returns are all connected.

If there is a leak, then they would all pull in dye.

You have to properly isolate the lines and use a smaller hole to do a valid dye test.

You are not doing the test correctly, so it tells you nothing.

It does not tell you that there is a leak and it does not tell you that there is no leak.

You would need to pressure test to confirm the lines are leaking or not leaking.

What about my other answer? Bucket test and water going down 1"a day until it reached those fittings, doesn't it indicate that there is a leak?

 

[JamesW]

The two main ways to find a leak are:

1) Have a diver check everywhere with dye.

2) Pressure test the lines to see if they hold pressure or do not hold pressure.

If the lines do not hold pressure, you can listen for the leak to isolate the location before digging.

At this point, you do not have enough information to determine anything.

You might have a leak, but you need to isolate the leak to a specific line and a specific location.

You can do either step first or both depending on what you feel is best.

Both steps might confirm a leak, both steps might find no leak and one step might find a leak and the other step might find no leak.

 

[Texas Splash]

Appreciate the pics. Helps a little in this discussion. Have you confirmed that any apparent water loss isn't actually water moving back & forth between the pool and spa? Other than the spa (I don't have one) our systems are similar. You have multiple locations where someone could insert a pressure test manifold to pressurize the line for testing. This would at least confirm a break in the line somewhere. Pinpointing it is done with listening devices (deck plate, sound rod, etc). Since you only have one return jet line leaving the pad, we know that line later splits to 3 different return jets, so as James noted, even if water actually is getting pulled into the opening, there's no way to know exactly where the dye is going from there.

I recently battelled this issue, so I know the frustrations associated with a potential leak. Below are a couple of my threads to give you an idea of what to expect.

Plumbing Assessment & Repairs

After several months of debate and testing that has confirmed I have plumbing leak on both the pressure and suction sides, I've finally decided to go in. My priority is the suction line right now since I have a Frakenplug installed in my cracked return jet, but since I had to rent a concrete...

www.troublefreepool.com

Leak Detection (Pressure Side), Results, and Frankenplug

After 9 years it finally happened – the dreaded leak. Here is my story. In the San Antonio area we have black clay soil that is horrible for structural support of any kind and often causes problems for home foundations, fencing, asphalt, pools, etc. When we observed excessive water loss, I...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[JamesW]

What about my other answer? Bucket test and water going down 1"a day until it reached those fittings, doesn't it indicate that there is a leak?

It seems likely that there is probably a leak, but what are you going to do, replace all of the plumbing?

The next steps are to have a diver dye test and/or have the lines pressure tested.

 

[Emiliano]

It seems likely that there is probably a leak, but what are you going to do, replace all of the plumbing?

The next steps are to have a diver dye test and/or have the lines pressure tested.

Sounds good. I'll bring someone in to make a test then. Thanks!

 

[Emiliano]

Appreciate the pics. Helps a little in this discussion. Have you confirmed that any apparent water loss isn't actually water moving back & forth between the pool and spa? Other than the spa (I don't have one) our systems are similar. You have multiple locations where someone could insert a pressure test manifold to pressurize the line for testing. This would at least confirm a break in the line somewhere. Pinpointing it is done with listening devices (deck plate, sound rod, etc). Since you only have one return jet line leaving the pad, we know that line later splits to 3 different return jets, so as James noted, even if water actually is getting pulled into the opening, there's no way to know exactly where the dye is going from there.

I recently battelled this issue, so I know the frustrations associated with a potential leak. Below are a couple of my threads to give you an idea of what to expect.

Plumbing Assessment & Repairs

After several months of debate and testing that has confirmed I have plumbing leak on both the pressure and suction sides, I've finally decided to go in. My priority is the suction line right now since I have a Frakenplug installed in my cracked return jet, but since I had to rent a concrete...

www.troublefreepool.com

Leak Detection (Pressure Side), Results, and Frankenplug

After 9 years it finally happened – the dreaded leak. Here is my story. In the San Antonio area we have black clay soil that is horrible for structural support of any kind and often causes problems for home foundations, fencing, asphalt, pools, etc. When we observed excessive water loss, I...

www.troublefreepool.com

The SPA is half above ground with a spill and it's always full of water. This is a picture of the pool, the yellow arrow is the location of the return I showed in the video. The light is at the far end to the right of the spa.



I'm going to go through your post latter. Thanks you for answering.