Slight haze in Water

[srnorris]

So, first, thanks in advance for your help.

I have a 14,000 gallon SWG pool with a Pentair 60 DE filter, and a variable speed pump (running the SWG at between 30-50%) for 10 hours daily. Just hosed out the filter panels completely two weeks ago. In the last couple of months, I did need to a slight amount (1/2 cup maybe) of "Yellow Out" and cranked up the SWG to 100% for several days after. No more algae at all! Algae comes and goes every year here in Southern California on the north-facing side of the pool.

CYA 70
Ph 7.5
FC 3-5
Salt 3400 PPM

I have been the pool guy (successfully) for the past 16 years, and was wisely told by you good folks to STOP using Leslie's "Fresh & Clear" a couple of years ago. I did.

My question is this. See the attached photo below. I am of the opinion that my water is not, in fact, CRYSTAL clear, but rather has a slight haze or fog in the water. I am curious if, based on what I have told you above, you might have suggestions on what I need to get the water absolutely crystal clear? I used to be under the impression (obviously wrongly) that "Fresh and Clear" did the trick.

Let me know your thoughts. Thanks!

 

[mknauss]

Yellow out is ammonia. Lots of chlorine is needed to consume the ammonia. Did you test your FC daily after using the yellow out?

Hazy water typically means algae. I suggest you do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tonight. Be sure the SWCG is off.

 

[Donldson]

Oh no. Which specific brand of Yellow Out did you use?

 

[srnorris]

Yellow out is ammonia. Lots of chlorine is needed to consume the ammonia. Did you test your FC daily after using the yellow out?

Hazy water typically means algae. I suggest you do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tonight. Be sure the SWCG is off.

Yellow out is ammonia. Lots of chlorine is needed to consume the ammonia. Did you test your FC daily after using the yellow out?

Hazy water typically means algae. I suggest you do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tonight. Be sure the SWCG is off.

Yes, I tested daily and after about three days of 100% run on the SWG there was plenty of chlorine. Remember, this was like 8 weeks ago.

 

[mknauss]

Great -- JD asked what specific brand the Yellow Out was. I assumed it was ammonia. But some are sodium bromide.
Do you still have the container?

 

[srnorris]

Sorry for the delay. The container reads, "Yellow Out" - the manufacturer is "NC Brands LP" Norwalk, CT. The label further says the principal functioning agent is "Di-Ammonium sulfate ...90%". There you go. Have I committed an unforgivable sin??

Thanks!

 

[mknauss]

Nope. You just added ammonia. The chlorine consumed it. Do not use it again.

 

[srnorris]

MKnauss, thanks. Final question. I have a SWG pool and loath the idea of SLAMing with a bunch of liquid chlorine. Is this really my only option for algae? The Yellow Out did seem to do the trick for a couple of months. Help me here, what is so wrong with cranking the SWG to 100% for 3 or 4 days along with adding perhaps a cup of Yellow Out (only over the small area - perhaps 8 total square feet of pool siding) to a 14,000 gallon pool with an otherwise perfect CYA to FC ratio? Thanks much

 

[mknauss]

With a CYA of 70, you need a FC of 28 ppm for SLAM level. And maintain it. You might be able to add liquid chlorine to reach the 28 ppm and then use the SWCG to maintain that, maybe. You do not show a signature so I do not know your pool type, volume, equipment, etc.

The Yellow Out is instant gratification. But you are not solving the source. No need for it. A SLAM completed to its full extent will solve it. And maintaining your FC in target level or above based on your CYA after the SLAM.

 

[Donldson]

Yellow Out just reacts with the chlorine already in the pool to create a bunch of CC. It doesn't do anything by itself and doesn't reduce the chlorine required to fix the issue. If it actually fixed the problem, why would it come back so quickly? In fact, the problem never went away. The water just cleared enough to convince you it did. The amount of time you are needing to run your SWG is indicative of that.

If you loath the SLAM Process, then there's a simple solution: do it once and maintain your FC to prevent the algae from returning. You're wasting a ton of chlorine avoiding the issue because you don't want to waste a ton of chlorine. If you can explain the logic in that, I would appreciate hearing it.

 

[srnorris]

May I clarify a bit here? The water is never really cloudy, which unfortunately is the name of this thread. The water is probably 95% clear in my estimation. I just have occasional faint patches of yellow on the north-facing side of the pool. This is clearly a function of my NOT brushing the pool on a regular basis, I would imagine.

Does this help to put things in perspective, I wonder? Thanks again.

 

[mknauss]

TFP Clear in North Dallas - there is water in there

Example of clear pool water.

 

[zea3]

If occasional patches of yellow and 95% clear water are not a big deal to you, then keep doing what you are currently doing. If you want the water to be crystal clear, with no occasional patches of yellow, we will be happy to advise you through the slam process. It works when done correctly and completely.