SLAM was successful but maintenance question

tclproductions

Bronze Supporter
May 20, 2017
64
Westlake village, CA
Hi - so I have no seen anymore yellow algae since the SLAM.

My CYA diluted test came back with very high levels , depending on light 120-160.

So my maintenance level should be 12-16. Question, PH reading is off over FC10. So I am still just letting it come down from Shock level which was 47. Should I let it go below FC10 so I can make sure PH is good?

Afraid I go to low...today its FC14 - PH reads 7.5

Thanks
 
That is the dilemma of operating at very high CYA levels.

Thinking out of the box - what if you took a sample of your pool water (say a 2 or 4 cup measuring cup full) and set it in the sun. Would the FC bake off and then test the pH of it? Not sure it would work. Would need to have some of the water chemistry folks on the forum chime in on it.

Take care.
 
If you let your FC drop below the minimum you are asking for trouble. You need to get your CYA down.


Yes, I know - but that's not an option right now as I am looking to replaster after this summer season. So right now I need to get thru this season. Guerilla style.

At CYA 160 - even refilling 50% would still leave me with CYA 80. So a complete refill is in order here. Will do that when I replaster.

- - - Updated - - -

That is the dilemma of operating at very high CYA levels.

Thinking out of the box - what if you took a sample of your pool water (say a 2 or 4 cup measuring cup full) and set it in the sun. Would the FC bake off and then test the pH of it? Not sure it would work. Would need to have some of the water chemistry folks on the forum chime in on it.

Take care.


I like how you think. Would that work? What do the chemists here say?
 
A sample of water in a glass sitting in the sun is not going to lower the FC any faster than in your pool. Remember, that sample still has 160 ppm of CYA in it protecting it from the sun. And dechlorinator messes with the phenol red, that has been tried here before.

I'm not sure if a pH meter will be affected by the FC level, someone with experience there will want to chime in. Otherwise you will need to allow your FC to drop enough to get a good reading occasionally. Now, while I do have my own set of guerilla style skills, I only teach in the TFP philosophy here. That said, if your are allowing FC to drop below the minimum you will want your water to be as inhospitable to algae as possible. Something like a decent borate level and low food level would probably keep things from getting out of hand for an occasional test. The borates especially will help you go longer between needing to adjust your pH, which means longer between allowing FC levels to drop, and 50 ppm of borates will help slow any algae growth that may accompany the FC drop.
 
A sample of water in a glass sitting in the sun is not going to lower the FC any faster than in your pool. Remember, that sample still has 160 ppm of CYA in it protecting it from the sun.

True - but I thought at least the pool was not being allowed to drop its FC below were he wanted it. I just was not sure if the pH would change with the FC drop.

TFTestkits.net sell a pH meter. Call them. They may be able to tell you if it is effected by high FC levels.

Take care.
 
I was there once upon a time. My pH sample didn't turn magenta right away but I was always suspicious of the readings. After a minute or two, it always darkened. Grab your sample, add your pH drops, cap. invert, revert, and take the reading right then. Ignore any later pH readings.

And I have checked your situation and 55 gallons per person per day before penalties pretty much eliminates more replacement.
 

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Thanks for the info about Borates - I will look into that

I let the FC drift down to 5 - then measured PH which was 7.5. Added a little tiny bit muriatic acid. And later cranked FC back up to 10. Will add another gallon this sunday and hop up to 12-14 again.

So far - No algae - I think I got away with letting it drift down. It seems to help when family swims in the pool a lot.
 
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