Should I junk or replace my Raypak Avia P-R404A-EP-C?

Hudsonbard

Member
May 24, 2021
22
Hudson Highlands, Orange County, NY
Pool Size
15000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Avia heater installed by a licensed plumber on 7/13/23, replacing an old Pentair model.

I was looking forward to the latest and greatest from a manufacturer with a solid reputation.

Within a month it started giving error messages and leaking through the vent.

I don't want to make too much of it, but Pentair was unable to find a dealer willing to come to my location. My pool guy tells me they used to have techs to fill in, but they don't any more. So they dealt with the situation by ghosting me with made up stories. TFP at that time lacked the experience with the model to be helpful.

I finally found a tech who would travel to my location, and Raypak, after some more delay and confusion, sent a replacement unit. The Avia was replaced last year, and worked for a while, then was shut off and bypassed in June, with very occasional use thereafter. In the fall, it developed the same problem of leaking through the vent.

My pool guy is now examining the unit before contacting Raypak for warranty replacement, since it seems to be the same problem.

He urges me to get a different model of pool heater. He notes that the prior Raypak models had a thick manual that covers every possible problem, but the Avia does not have that yet. He has heard some disturbing reports from people at his distributor, but that is just anecdotal.

My chemicals are checked, and double checked, BTW.

My question is: Am I just the victim of bad luck. Should I try a third Avia unit. Or should I get a different model of pool heater, and if so, what is the best replacement available.

Thanks for any guidance.
 
I don't want to make too much of it, but Pentair was unable to find a dealer willing to come to my location.
I think you mean to throw shade on Raypak, not Pentair.

If Raypak will give you another Avia heater under warranty you might as well give it a try.

Pentair MasterTemp continues to be a workhorse heater where parts are available and we understand how to repair them.
 
Leaking through the vent is typically an indication that the heat exchanger is leaking. That is usually caused by chemicals corroding the heat exchanger or the water velocity being to high and mechanically damaging the exchanger or the exchanger is not properly or adequately engineered for the job. You also mentioned bypassing the heater and not using it for long periods of time. That’s exceptionally bad for a pool heater as the stagnant water in the heat exchanger can cause corrosion or damage. Pool heaters have the longest lives when they are used regularly. Just like letting a car sit in a garage for months or years without ever turning over the engine, stagnant equipment can develop all sorts of problems.

I would suggest getting a replacement unit from Raypak if that’s possible and then redoubling your efforts at checking and maintaining water chemistry as well as firing the unit regularly even if you don’t intend to heat the pool.
 
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I think you mean to throw shade on Raypak, not Pentair.

If Raypak will give you another Avia heater under warranty you might as well give it a try.

Pentair MasterTemp continues to be a workhorse heater where parts are available and we understand how to repair them.
You are right. At my age, I am constantly switching similar words. My apologies.
 
Leaking through the vent is typically an indication that the heat exchanger is leaking. That is usually caused by chemicals corroding the heat exchanger or the water velocity being to high and mechanically damaging the exchanger or the exchanger is not properly or adequately engineered for the job. You also mentioned bypassing the heater and not using it for long periods of time. That’s exceptionally bad for a pool heater as the stagnant water in the heat exchanger can cause corrosion or damage. Pool heaters have the longest lives when they are used regularly. Just like letting a car sit in a garage for months or years without ever turning over the engine, stagnant equipment can develop all sorts of problems.

I would suggest getting a replacement unit from Raypak if that’s possible and then redoubling your efforts at checking and maintaining water chemistry as well as firing the unit regularly even if you don’t intend to heat the pool.
Thanks for the heads up.

I must say that I really do like the app and its ability to control the unit remotely.
 
And just a sanity check - you are still using an SWG for chlorination, is that correct?

Does anyone service your pool and, if so, is anyone putting trichlor tabs in places they shouldn’t like the skimmer basket?

Did you install the zinc anode, aka ProTek Shield, kit with this heater?
 
Yes, SWG. When that needed replacement, I used chlorox and trichlor tabs in floater.

Yes, service guy drives 35 miles to get to us. We're in the dark wilderness, 60 minutes north of Manhattan. No trichlor tabs in skimmer.

I'll have to ask my servicer about the Protek shield.
 
I see you have the Taylor K-2006c test kit. Can we get a full set of chemistry levels from your testing as you may have chemistry causing the heaters to fail.
FC-?
CC-?
PH-?
CH-?
TA-?
SALT-?
CYA-?
 
I see you have the Taylor K-2006c test kit. Can we get a full set of chemistry levels from your testing as you may have chemistry causing the heaters to fail.
FC-?
CC-?
PH-?
CH-?
TA-?
SALT-?
CYA-?
Thanks. I understand your question, but both the pool servicer and I are on top of the chemistry, with particular attention to Ph.

Here is one: FC 6, ph 7.6, cya 72, ta 70, salt 3800
 

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And just a sanity check - you are still using an SWG for chlorination, is that correct?

Does anyone service your pool and, if so, is anyone putting trichlor tabs in places they shouldn’t like the skimmer basket?

Did you install the zinc anode, aka ProTek Shield, kit with this heater?
I see from another thread that there are sacrificial anoded that can be attached to skimmers. Does that make sense to use?
In my city home I have a Veissmann indirect water tank that never requires an anode, and is literally guaranteed for life.
 
I see from another thread that there are sacrificial anoded that can be attached to skimmers. Does that make sense to use?
In my city home I have a Veissmann indirect water tank that never requires an anode, and is literally guaranteed for life.

I personally don’t think the anodes make any difference. The Protek type simply connects to the bond wire which will cause the zinc to corrode away whether or not it is actually providing any galvanic protection to anything in the heater. The ones that are sold for use in skimmers is just a chunk of zinc attached to the skimmer basket with no electrical connection at all to anything and so it is entirely worthless.

The reason why I asked about it is that Raypak might require the installation of the Protek shield device as a condition of warranty. They will often require that you show proof of water chemistry history from an independent third party like your pool service person as a condition of warranty as well. These types of inquiries are often used as justifications to deny claims since their warranty exclusion terms are often very broad.
 
then was shut off and bypassed in June,
If the heater fired while bypassed, it could overpressure the heat exchanger and cause it to fail.

Did you do a teardown to examine the cause of the leak?

I would put a flow switch on the heater instead of relying on a pressure switch.


 
I see from another thread that there are sacrificial anoded that can be attached to skimmers. Does that make sense to use?
In my city home I have a Veissmann indirect water tank that never requires an anode, and is literally guaranteed for life.
I also see, on further reading here, that the skimmer sacrificial anodes do nothing.

Raypak has once again sent us a list of dealers to come look at my pool. I'd be surprised if any will actually come.
 
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