Setting up iPool for year round use

Hello, friendly TFP folks! I am new here but have been doing a LOT of searching through your forums. I've read a lot of great stuff, but need some help with some very specific circumstances.

I want a swimspa. I can't afford a swimspa. I will get a swimspa one day (in a few years- I promised myself that I would not buy one until all student loans and credit cards are completely paid off).

But come on, I want to swim, and I don't want to do it with gross other-people's-bandaids and people who don't shower before getting in the pool.

So I bought an iPool. For those unfamiliar, this is a rectangular frame style pool similar to an Intex (but thicker material), about 7x10 feet with 1500 gallons of water. I currently have it set up right beside my floating deck and about 4 feet from my screened in porch. It looks lovely. I have an umbrella for it, a solar cover, a sand and salt combo (Intex). Just lovely. However... it's been unseasonably cool here in Virginia and it's too darn cold to use (currently 70 degrees- admittedly, I took the solar cover off and forgot to put it back on for about a week). I also have but am not currently using: a spare filter/pump (2500 gph normal Intex/filter), custom insulation to go on the outside of the pool (yes, I need to put that on), and an 11kW 60amp electric spa heater (Hayward). The heater is not hooked up but there is a 220v outlet on the porch (about 15 feet away from where the pump resides). I'm very cold natured (I would ideally want it about 84/85 degrees) but I'm very scared of my power bills once I hook the heater up. My friends with a swimspa nearby say they spend about $50 a month on their power so I imagine mine would be exponentially more due to significantly less insulation.

My initial plan was to put the pool on the porch (cement floor) and put up plastic for a greenhouse effect during cold weather. However, it would be... a very tight feet. The outlet would be about 5 feet away (a no go, I hear) so it would have to be moved, but more importantly, I would need to scrunch in the legs of the frame about 4 inches on each side for it to fit. Even with that, I'm concerned that the walls of the pool would push against the walls of the porch (brick) and potentially do damage to one or the other.

Alternatively- I could leave it where it is (outside, just off the screened porch). It will have the custom insulation (r value 6.7). I would also be fine to build some sort of wind screen (likely using cedar fence panels) and/or a plastic dome of some sort with vinyl and pvc pipes (there is already a structure for the harness that extends roughly 4 feet above the pool that is pretty solid). I also happen to have a 10x12 gazebo that I bought for another purpose but changed my mind after disposing of the box (doh), so that's just sitting in my shed. The pool could fit under there and it has curtains (both heavy fabric and mosquito netting), but I worry about whether that will ultimately be a negative due to blocking sunlight. There will definitely be something over it or around it one way or the other because I just can't see swimming hard and inhaling 20 degree air without dying of an asthma attack.

Thoughts on whether it would be more heat efficient to leave where it is or move to the porch (where it will be beside my heated, brick house)? Or any ideas on how to increase efficiency? Or reassurances that my fears of hundreds of dollars in electric bills are overly anxious? Or, if you see a glaring problem that I've overlooked, please feel free to point that out as well.

Also- what is the deal for a heater when the outlet is about 15 feet away from the pool? Will I need to move it or what? I honestly do not understand how the wiring works... I know the heater should be directly wired in, but it also needs to be some distances from the pool, but it also has to be close enough that water can pipe through, but my hoses are only like 6ft long so...help. I've had two electricians come out to give me quotes when I thought it would be on the porch and they were less than helpful. I am fairly smart but sadly have zero foundation in electricity.

Thank you!!
 
Well hello there! Very smart of you to wait on getting the swim spa until the big loans are paid off. Not fun but smart :hug:

I would NOT put it on the porch. Too many things could go wrong. Your gut is telling you nope and you need to listen to it.

I will let someone else address the a electric part of this.

Kim:kim:
 
Thanks! It's hard to resist. I bought a house 2 years ago, which was a fantastic buy and I don't regret it, but OMG I want to do so much and it all costs so much! Trying to pace myself and get out from under the loans at the same time. I'm still getting over sticker shock for how much it costs to hire people to do things... I don't begrudge them the cost because they are providing a valuable service and should be paid well for it but I do try to DIY as much as possible. Sadly, electrical work is completely outside my knowledge base (all those years of school and not a thing on electricity unless you count how neurons communicate, ha).

Agree about the porch... I came to the same conclusion a little while after I posted this. I've been waffling for months so now I can go all in and do what needs to be done rather than hesitating because I might change my mind.

- - - Updated - - -

Welcome to TFP!

Sorry, I actually don't have anything useful to say but wanted to say I love the username. Are you also a transponster? :D

You lose the lightening round! But win at making me laugh and be glad I'm not the only one who has that memorized.

EDIT: Sorry I really don't know how any of this works so pardon the posting errors and mishaps :rolleyes:
 
Miss...

I agree you and Kimkats are on the right track to leave it away from the porch.

On the heating issue. Your heater I'm afraid the news is not good. There are two kinds of electric heaters. The cheapest to operate above 32 def F ambient is usually a heat pump. Natural gas is usually cheaper to operate than either. Unfortunately, if it's the one I think it is you have a resistance heating element (can you please confirm the model number?). This is very expensive to operate but that's just the start of the problems. You'll need a 60 amp service and the electric connector on the porch is likely to only be rated for a dryer which is normally 30 amps. Please check the breaker box and look for the breaker. This is where you'll find out what it's rated at. I don't think a 15' cord is available but you might be able to find one. It will be pretty expensive. Next, even if you get it to work it's going to take about 600 minutes to raise the temp by 30 deg. Rough calculations assuming $.12 per KWhr indicate it would take $13-15 to heat it up by 30 deg. I don't have enough information to estimate heat loss but heat loss will be enormous without insulation and the cover. Bottom line:

  • Definitely insulate the spa!
  • Use the cover!
  • Get an estimate from an electrician to check my conclusions about your power supply... an estimate should be free.
  • You should be able to get your local power company's customer service to estimate power costs. They usually also have people that can estimate heat loss also.

Congrats on your great fiscally responsible decisions you've already made. I wish I had better news but you have a great start for at least part of the year!

Best regards,

Chris
 
Thanks for the notes, Chris. Some of the information requested:
https://www.amazon.com/Hayward-CSPAXI11-11-Kilowatt-Electric-Heater/dp/B002EL40RW is the heater (CSPAXI11 if you prefer model number). I believe you are correct in the type. Aren't natural gas heaters super expensive, though? I do have natural gas, and what do you know- the meter is not terribly far away (like, 20 feet-ish) so I assume the gas line is somewhere near there. I am thinking that I'll likely only use this 2-3 years, though, so I'm sure it's worth upgrading to something more costly. If.when I get my dream swimspa, though, I assume natural gas would be the way to go.

Re: the 220v connection I have- the previous owners had a hot tub on the porch, which is what the 220v was for. It's currently a 50amp- I will need to upgrade to 60 but the good news is that the wiring is good to go for 60amp (electrician confirmed). I had quotes before I got the pool just to try to figure out total costs, but that was when I was still planning on putting it on the porch so no idea what the extra distance would be.

(Alternatively- could I just get long hoses? I assume I would need to insulate them well but I could run them through the screen and store the pump and heater on the porch. That would actually be kind of nice from a convenience perspective.)

I'm currently looking for an electrician to quote and hopefully get this bad boy going. Fall is practically here! The electricians I got before were fine- I might go back to first of them but they were kind of spendy (oh you want an extra outlet here and a light over here... but they're not wrong), and the other one seemed a little confused (although it is a weird project) and his assistant hit on me in a rather creepy way so he's not coming back.

So insulation is going on tomorrow. I'll be better about the cover :). Currently looking for electrician. Your estimate of power costs is almost spot on- according to my power bill, it's $0.124 per KWhr.

So the big question is heat loss. On one hand, I'll have to play that by ear. On the other, I'm sure I won't want to be out there building a fence when it's cold (did I mention I hate cold?). I'm pretty handy so building a fence or walls of sort is definitely a possibility. What I'd really like is one of those nice sturdy pergolas to leave open in the summer and attach removable fence panels to in the cooler weather. :) Time to troll the summer clearances...
 
Thanks for the notes, Chris. Some of the information requested:
https://www.amazon.com/Hayward-CSPAXI11-11-Kilowatt-Electric-Heater/dp/B002EL40RW is the heater (CSPAXI11 if you prefer model number). I believe you are correct in the type. Aren't natural gas heaters super expensive, though? I do have natural gas, and what do you know- the meter is not terribly far away (like, 20 feet-ish) so I assume the gas line is somewhere near there. I am thinking that I'll likely only use this 2-3 years, though, so I'm sure it's worth upgrading to something more costly. If.when I get my dream swimspa, though, I assume natural gas would be the way to go.

Re: the 220v connection I have- the previous owners had a hot tub on the porch, which is what the 220v was for. It's currently a 50amp- I will need to upgrade to 60 but the good news is that the wiring is good to go for 60amp (electrician confirmed). I had quotes before I got the pool just to try to figure out total costs, but that was when I was still planning on putting it on the porch so no idea what the extra distance would be.

(Alternatively- could I just get long hoses? I assume I would need to insulate them well but I could run them through the screen and store the pump and heater on the porch. That would actually be kind of nice from a convenience perspective.)

I'm currently looking for an electrician to quote and hopefully get this bad boy going. Fall is practically here! The electricians I got before were fine- I might go back to first of them but they were kind of spendy (oh you want an extra outlet here and a light over here... but they're not wrong), and the other one seemed a little confused (although it is a weird project) and his assistant hit on me in a rather creepy way so he's not coming back.

So insulation is going on tomorrow. I'll be better about the cover :). Currently looking for electrician. Your estimate of power costs is almost spot on- according to my power bill, it's $0.124 per KWhr.

So the big question is heat loss. On one hand, I'll have to play that by ear. On the other, I'm sure I won't want to be out there building a fence when it's cold (did I mention I hate cold?). I'm pretty handy so building a fence or walls of sort is definitely a possibility. What I'd really like is one of those nice sturdy pergolas to leave open in the summer and attach removable fence panels to in the cooler weather. :) Time to troll the summer clearances...

Miss...

Wow! Great response and very quick! So I'll try to answer your questions:
  • Yes gas heaters are expensive. The smallest is around $1000 not including installation. So you're probably smart to get this later on.
  • So the previous owners had a spa on the porch? This is new info. Is the porch slab on grade and not elevated? This means you may be OK to put the spa on the porch. I was concerned about the weight. I'm guessing your spa is 3' deep if it's 1500 gal. Is this correct and how deep was the previous owner's pool? Also, great news on the breaker. If you have the correct wire size all you need is a 60 amp replacement breaker... should be a couple hundred $.
  • Power cords are available for high amperage... I almost forgot I used to have these for our sailboat. They are expensive but you can get a 60 amp or two 30 amp cords with a splitter. On the other hand if you use the porch location this may not be needed. You can definitely use insulated pipe or hose if needed. It must be insulated to reduce heat loss though. This might be the best way to go if you don't put it on the porch.
  • You should get 3 bids on the electrical work. Define the scope for the work and get each one to bid on the same scope. If you're not sure which are good get the name of 3 from Home Depot or check home advisor or Angie's List.
  • Heat loss is a little complicated. You have several areas to lose heat. Evaporation, convection and radiation from the surface, and conduction from the outside. With your insulation conduction from the side walls is minimal. Surprisingly to most evaporation can be 60% of your heat loss, convection and conduction are about 20% each. All of these increase rapidly with increased wind speed. So it is extremely important to have a good cover and I think you said you had this. If you can confirm the height I'll try to calculate the heat loss. I also need to know how much time per day you'll have the top off and do you plan to use it year round, including winter?

I hope this helps.

Chris
 
Wow this is great information, thank you! I searched high and low for some of this but I think it's just such random questions with common words that I couldn't find what I needed, so this is really helpful.

Previous owners had a hot tub... I don't know the exact size but it looked to be maybe 9x9? The floor is a bit questionable- not so much the weight but there are definitely high and low places that I can see when it rains hard and water gets in. Not huge, but definitely there, and of course the biggest/lowest spot is right where several of the supports would land if I were to put the pool on the porch. The other thing about this porch is that the majority of it is to the right of the door from the house, but to keep to code (I think it's 6 feet away from the water?), the outlets would need to be moved to the OTHER side of the door. Barring some sort of overhead piping, that would be hugely inconvenient as I am in and out many times a day with my dog who I can totally see catching one of the pipes and knocking it out. FWIW, the porch is not elevated.

So I'm definitely leaning towards keeping it outside (actually, I think I've decided pretty definitely... for now), although that is not great from a wind perspective. It is somewhat sheltered on 2 sides from wind (house and 6ft fence/jungle of aucuba), and there are woods on one side so I would guess a little bit of wind break there. The totally unsheltered side is facing NE but should get a decent amount of morning sun. Currently, it only gets a bit of sun in the afternoon/evening but it will get a lot more when the trees lose their leaves. It is currently under a hickory tree, which is rather unfortunate but everywhere else is very sloped or directly under a shockingly low power wire.

Re: the solar blanket, here is a description of what I have (this is all they give): The blue silver solar cover is made of two layers of high density polyethylene film: The electric blue top surface absorbs suns rays into the water, then the aluminized bottom “bubble surface” reflects much of the heat normally lost back into the water. This results in quicker heat-ups and greater heat retention. It seems pretty heavy duty (way heavier than the one I picked up from amazon a few years ago for something else) but I do wonder why it's not clear.

Yes- I believe the water depth is around 36 inches, maybe 38 or so. The frame tops out at 45. I'll probably have the cover off an hour to an hour and a half on weekdays, probably pretty infrequently on the weekends. I do definitely plan to put something on top of it to keep that warm humid air from just dissipating. I'm not sure what yet but if i had to guess I'd say 6mil vinyl over a hoop. I'm going to try to insert a pic below so you can see what it looks like- I think if I just added some support to the front where there isn't already overhead frame, adding a vinyl cover would be really easy. I'll try to remember to take pics of my current setup tomorrow.

One other thing that I failed to mention earlier- when I first put this up, I put 1 inch foam insulation boards underneath (just regular old green R5 boards). I also bought some horse stall mats that I was going to use and wound up saving "for when I moved it to the porch" but they may wind up in my future weights room.

I am currently leaning strongly towards keeping it outside (with insulation and cover plus some sort of vinyl bubble with a possibility of adding more windbreak with fencing as needed) and running the pipes into the porch. I thought the long power cord (if such a thing existed and was legal to use) would be the best option but when I really think about it, I am just not comfortable with the of a high powered line running that far and through a space I use quite a lot.

Thanks so much for all the input, Chris- it's been really valuable and helping me form a solid plan.

If I may further pick people's brains- I see that a lot of people "upgrade" to PVC pipe rather than the floppy tubes that come with the pool. What is the advantage? If I'm going to have to do some rearranging, PVC pipe would be better in terms of tripping risk, but I'm not sure what the other advantage that presumably people not at risk of tripping would want it for.

*edit: Yes, I do plan to use it year round. This may or may not work out but that is the hope. I've realized that swimming is quite likely more important for my mental health than my physical health, and that doubles in winter (especially if I can get some sun in there as well).
iPool_AffordableTherapyPool_Blog.jpg
 
The pool needs to be where you are putting it. Remember the legs needing to be moved in and still touching the house. I think any and all thought of it going on the porch should be gone and move on with all thoughts of it being outside.

Power cord-You CAN get the higher rated cords. They can be custom made. It is even something you can do IF you know that size to buy and the "ends" needed. Saying that I would have your electrician do it for you to be on the safe side.

PVC vs flex pipes-you mention having a dog. My dog is the main reason we hard plumbed our pool. If he knocked into the flexible ones he could cause it to come off and make a mess. You can dig a trench and put the pipes in there. I would have shut off valves and unions right by the pool and again on the other end by the equipment so it will be easy to close and undo if needed.

Make sure to run any ideas by us. Someone will have an idea LOL

Kim:kim:
 

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Thanks, Kim! I'm actually really pleased with this idea- keeping it outside where it is (with insulation!), and changing over the PVC pipes (with insulation!) and moving the pump/filter and heater to the porch.

Here's a question- if the heater needs say, 6 hours to heat up the pool, but I normally only run the pump/filter for about 2hr a day or the chlorine gets too high, how do I resolve that? I know I can manually change from filter to recirculate but that seems like something I would need to do every day and I got a salt/sand combo for 2 reasons: 1- so my dog can swim with me (theoretically, so far she's anti water over her head), and 2- because I know I am not great at keeping up with maintenance on things that require daily attention.

Also, any good tutorials on converting an Intex like pool (I'm using Intex hoses although I may have muscled them into a smaller hole than they were intended for) to PVC would be very welcome.
 
I am going to guess there is little or no adjustment on the swg. Is it all or nothing? If that is the case then you will need to "train" yourself to turn the handle to bypass the swg.

For the pipes you can do a search in the white box at the top of the page. It only goes to tfp threads.

I am also going to do some searches to see what I can find as well.

Kim:kim:
 
Wow this is great information, thank you! I searched high and low for some of this but I think it's just such random questions with common words that I couldn't find what I needed, so this is really helpful.

Previous owners had a hot tub... I don't know the exact size but it looked to be maybe 9x9? The floor is a bit questionable- not so much the weight but there are definitely high and low places that I can see when it rains hard and water gets in. Not huge, but definitely there, and of course the biggest/lowest spot is right where several of the supports would land if I were to put the pool on the porch. The other thing about this porch is that the majority of it is to the right of the door from the house, but to keep to code (I think it's 6 feet away from the water?), the outlets would need to be moved to the OTHER side of the door. Barring some sort of overhead piping, that would be hugely inconvenient as I am in and out many times a day with my dog who I can totally see catching one of the pipes and knocking it out. FWIW, the porch is not elevated.

So I'm definitely leaning towards keeping it outside (actually, I think I've decided pretty definitely... for now), although that is not great from a wind perspective. It is somewhat sheltered on 2 sides from wind (house and 6ft fence/jungle of aucuba), and there are woods on one side so I would guess a little bit of wind break there. The totally unsheltered side is facing NE but should get a decent amount of morning sun. Currently, it only gets a bit of sun in the afternoon/evening but it will get a lot more when the trees lose their leaves. It is currently under a hickory tree, which is rather unfortunate but everywhere else is very sloped or directly under a shockingly low power wire.

Re: the solar blanket, here is a description of what I have (this is all they give): The blue silver solar cover is made of two layers of high density polyethylene film: The electric blue top surface absorbs suns rays into the water, then the aluminized bottom “bubble surface” reflects much of the heat normally lost back into the water. This results in quicker heat-ups and greater heat retention. It seems pretty heavy duty (way heavier than the one I picked up from amazon a few years ago for something else) but I do wonder why it's not clear.

Yes- I believe the water depth is around 36 inches, maybe 38 or so. The frame tops out at 45. I'll probably have the cover off an hour to an hour and a half on weekdays, probably pretty infrequently on the weekends. I do definitely plan to put something on top of it to keep that warm humid air from just dissipating. I'm not sure what yet but if i had to guess I'd say 6mil vinyl over a hoop. I'm going to try to insert a pic below so you can see what it looks like- I think if I just added some support to the front where there isn't already overhead frame, adding a vinyl cover would be really easy. I'll try to remember to take pics of my current setup tomorrow.

One other thing that I failed to mention earlier- when I first put this up, I put 1 inch foam insulation boards underneath (just regular old green R5 boards). I also bought some horse stall mats that I was going to use and wound up saving "for when I moved it to the porch" but they may wind up in my future weights room.

I am currently leaning strongly towards keeping it outside (with insulation and cover plus some sort of vinyl bubble with a possibility of adding more windbreak with fencing as needed) and running the pipes into the porch. I thought the long power cord (if such a thing existed and was legal to use) would be the best option but when I really think about it, I am just not comfortable with the of a high powered line running that far and through a space I use quite a lot.

Thanks so much for all the input, Chris- it's been really valuable and helping me form a solid plan.

If I may further pick people's brains- I see that a lot of people "upgrade" to PVC pipe rather than the floppy tubes that come with the pool. What is the advantage? If I'm going to have to do some rearranging, PVC pipe would be better in terms of tripping risk, but I'm not sure what the other advantage that presumably people not at risk of tripping would want it for.

*edit: Yes, I do plan to use it year round. This may or may not work out but that is the hope. I've realized that swimming is quite likely more important for my mental health than my physical health, and that doubles in winter (especially if I can get some sun in there as well).

Miss...,

OK I've done some additional calculations and made a lot of assumptions:

  • If your first fill is from water 60 deg F and you heat it up 25 degrees it will take 10 hr and cost you about $27.75. Assuming you have the cover on and sealed plus the insulating blanket and sealed around the pool so no cold air can infiltrate
  • Your daily heat loss is very dependent on the wind speed and temperature. I'm calculating this will be about 3-4 degrees during summer and up to 10 degrees during winter. While you're in the pool it will lose about 1 deg per hour if the heater is off during the summer. During winter it can easily be 3 times this much. So the critical thing to do to minimize operating cost is make certain you have the cover on any time you're not using the pool... kind of common sense.
  • Normal heat loss during the summer will cost about $3/day.
  • Heating heat loss during winter could be as high as $9/day but this is for a LONG wet windy cold spell and I'm guessing in that much cold you won't use it.
  • It looks like you can bypass the SWG pretty easily with some additional PVC piping and a couple of ball valves.

There are so many variables for winter like temperature, wind, rain, condition of your insulation and seal on the top these calculations are very rough but I'm pretty comfortable you'll see close to the numbers I'm giving you for summer (and probably into fall and spring). If you didn't have the cover and insulation this would be a completely different story. I would watch the power costs carefully each day to confirm the real costs. A lot of power companies have websites that you can log in to to monitor daily costs. If you don't have this you can always read your meter yourself and do the math.

I like your plan and the fact that you are checking into all aspects before you start this job. I don't know anything about this pool other than what's available online but as Kimkats said I'm sure somebody here has used one.

I hope this helps and good luck to you.

Chris
 
Hi Chris,

Thanks so very much, although I have to say that I'm not loving those numbers (not your fault), although the worst case scenario is below my worst nightmares so that's good. Re: calculations- I would love to know how to calculate that, if it's not terribly complicated (I suspect it is). Were the heat loss calculations done with consideration to proposed insulation? Because I can just pile on foam boards a foot thick around the pool if need be :). Actually, I have been toying with the thought of using foam boards broken into segments (for folding) attached to the top of the solar blanket (I have some extra overhang that I haven't cut off yet). Moving that idea into the "very likely" pile.

I am in Virginia so winter is pretty unpredictable. Last year we had a few days of wind chill below zero but then a surprising amount of 70+ degree days in Jan/Feb. We'll see what exciting weather patterns this year will hold... we're currently holding out breath over Irma for now.

I agree about the ball valves. Currently working on my diagram. I am actually really thrilled with this new idea (to me) of using PVC pipes. For some reason, the idea that the hoses might be a potential area to adjust had not occurred to me, despite all those times I scowled at the pump and wished I could move it somewhere else. Turns out the pool needs to be half empty to put on the insulation so I figure I'll change the connections and put that on at the same time since I'm likely to lose at least some water with that anyway.

I will update with whatever other crazy ideas I come up with, and pictures that I failed to get today. I've got a hazy plan for a dome like what LFrankow linked above.
 
I am going to guess there is little or no adjustment on the swg. Is it all or nothing? If that is the case then you will need to "train" yourself to turn the handle to bypass the swg.

For the pipes you can do a search in the white box at the top of the page. It only goes to tfp threads.

I am also going to do some searches to see what I can find as well.

Kim:kim:


Thanks, Kim! I'm looking as well. The SWG is all hooked together but perhaps that is something I can adjust and bypass the chlorinator part. With the blanket on, I've found that even 2 hours/day is sometimes too much and I wind up with "spa" levels of chlorine, so maybe I can make that the less frequent cycle. I did find out that the outlet/inlet size is 1 1/4 so that's a start :).

I also have a nice low roof (about 8ft tall) very nearby that would be a great place to throw a solar heater on if I can figure out that bit. Maybe next year as I've got so much on my plate and I'm guessing solar heating doesn't work well below 70 degrees or so.
 
Hi Chris,

Thanks so very much, although I have to say that I'm not loving those numbers (not your fault), although the worst case scenario is below my worst nightmares so that's good. Re: calculations- I would love to know how to calculate that, if it's not terribly complicated (I suspect it is). Were the heat loss calculations done with consideration to proposed insulation? Because I can just pile on foam boards a foot thick around the pool if need be :). Actually, I have been toying with the thought of using foam boards broken into segments (for folding) attached to the top of the solar blanket (I have some extra overhang that I haven't cut off yet). Moving that idea into the "very likely" pile.

I am in Virginia so winter is pretty unpredictable. Last year we had a few days of wind chill below zero but then a surprising amount of 70+ degree days in Jan/Feb. We'll see what exciting weather patterns this year will hold... we're currently holding out breath over Irma for now.

I agree about the ball valves. Currently working on my diagram. I am actually really thrilled with this new idea (to me) of using PVC pipes. For some reason, the idea that the hoses might be a potential area to adjust had not occurred to me, despite all those times I scowled at the pump and wished I could move it somewhere else. Turns out the pool needs to be half empty to put on the insulation so I figure I'll change the connections and put that on at the same time since I'm likely to lose at least some water with that anyway.

I will update with whatever other crazy ideas I come up with, and pictures that I failed to get today. I've got a hazy plan for a dome like what LFrankow linked above.

Miss...,

The calculations aren't really that difficult. There are several different correlations and formulas. The tough part is picking the right one and getting the right data to use (for example reflectivity used in the radiant heat loss calculation for your blanket etc and the wind, rain, temps for the worst case). I'll see if I can dig up the appropriate formulas and send them separately. I definitely took the benefit of all your insulation and solar blanket. You can add more thickness and it will help but there is diminishing return for added thickness. I also have read that using standard heat transfer calculations are known to generate conservative losses but that's the only way there is to do the calculations. You could contact ipool but just remember they're a little conflicted. I assumed the worst case would be for long cold rainy weather. This is because cold rain contacting the pool in any place is a liquid to solid heat transfer. The overall heat transfer in this case is about 15 times that of a gas (air) contacting the same surface. A snow blanket actually helps insulate the pool.

On the piping issue there are a couple of things to keep in mind before you commit to this. Pipe and pipe fittings have pressure drop that can cause the pump flow rate to drop or for long distances it may not even work. The pressure drop associated with PVC pipe is much lower than flex pipe so if you go much longer distances your pump has to be capable of handling it. You also have to be sure the elevation changes are considered. I think that's probably why people make the cables that Kimkats referred to. Most standard pool pumps handle distances of of 100' easily but I don't know anything about the pump or the pump performance curve on your ipool. It should be available somewhere though. This is easy to check and the calculations are very accurate/reliable but you need to know the distances, elevation differences, and have the pump performance curve. It would be great if somebody on this site that has direct experience with ipools and ipool equipment could comment on this.

I hope this helps.

Chris
 
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