Seeking a new pump, considering v-green 1.65, priming concerns

If that is the case, you will need to use a new Hayward pump for it to communicate directly. Or, you can buy the 1.85 variable speed motor and Hayward drive, put them on your existing wet end and have a Hayward VSP. That would save about $200 from the cost of a new Hayward W3SP3202VSP, a 1.85thp VSP. Its not a hard project. Don't forget to get a communication cable (they come with a new pump, usually).

Or, you could go the V-Green 1.65 route, save even more money and get very similar results (pump performance would be the same). Putting the V-Green on the wet end is easier, especially when trying to mount the drive on a Hayward motor. It especially takes patience with the drive mounting screws that MUST be completely tightened against the motor for a proper ground. Its not hard, but you must be patient so that they don't break off (ask me how I know).
 
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@JamesW and @1poolman1 you both have been so helpful, truly, thank you very much for your expertise in this!

So I would LOVE to do the Hayward VS pump and drive it with my current automation, but I think overall the additional cost is going to be too much to bit off right now. So I am thinking I'll keep my impeller, keep my diffuser, replace the sealplate, and replace the motor with the v-green 1.65.

A few specific questions/comments:
Your impeller (new or used if the same number) will only cause the motor to draw the 7.5 amps of the original motor rating.
If you want, replace all the items. I've seen impellers with far worse damage work just fine. There will always be "grossness" between the motor and sealplate after about a year or less, especially if the seal was leaking. Most of the sandy material is likely corrosion of the front of the motor. I just wash it off and inspect for damage. If there is none it doesn't get replaced (saves the customer money). No gasket between motor and sealplate. Be very sure to replace the left-hand-thread screw.
If I keep my impeller, are you saying I should get a new left-hand-thread screw to replace my old one?

Before you purchase a pump, look into your pumps menu in the configuration menu. If there is not an option for a variable speed pump it won't communicate with a Hayward, or any other, VSP directly. If you seriously want to use your Goldline (Hayward) system you can look for the highly elusive OmniPL upgrade kit (they just were released). Right now, if you can get one, they are about $12-$1300. Then, you would have to buy a Hayward VSP. Good pumps, had mine without problem for about 12 years.

Your system will operate a V-Green 165. I've done it with 2 Hayward systems, but several Jandy. They all work about the same. You can use it to set a start time, allow the internal timer to go through its programming (whatever you set) and then stop. You can leave that relay "on" forever (or put the wires from the Load terminals of relay 1 to the Line side) and the motor will do its program every 24 hours. That is the simplest but gives you no control through the automation.

You can hook it up as your pump is now, set the relay 1 (pump) to turn on at, for example, 2:00AM and it will start and stop its 24-hour cycle. That lets you set a long, slow run for the benefit of circulation and your SWG.

Have relay 1 turn off at 1:30AM (every one's in bed by then and don't need the pool) and power will be available to run the pump in manual mode after the program has run if you need to have more circulation for a party or other event until that time. You cannot turn the power off and right back on to any variable-speed motor, it won't restart. You must give it some time for the internal capacitors to drain so it can reset. Must be off for at least 5 minutes to be sure. I usually set them up as above, "on" 2:00AM, "off" 1:30AM.

You will only use the "start" and "stop" buttons on the motor to service the pump, not the automation. If you put the system in "service" or "time out" mode it will re-set the variable-speed motor's cycle and it will start over at speed one and use its 24 cycle until the next power interruption. Not a big deal and it only lasts the one day.

Bottom line is if you were happy with the pump you have as a single-speed, you will be happier with it as a variable-speed. It will take a little learning curve, but is worth it.

OK - so it sounds like I have 2 options to wire it - either wire it always on and program the v-green to control the on-off itself, or wire it on the goldline timer (as the old pump was), and let the existing automation shut off the pump overall. My question is - what will work best with the salt cell? The current automation has a flow sensor, and I "assume" that the system takes care of not running the cell when the flow is not on. I know I had a problem previously with the flow sensor not working, and the system threw a fault (legitimately - I had to fix the sensor wiring at that time). My question is - if the current automation has the filter as "on", but the programming on the v-green is set to not have the pump physically running, then will my current automation throw a fault and give me problems because its not detecting flow? Or will it just "figure it out" when the pump comes back on (via the v-green programming schedule)?

If that is the case, you will need to use a new Hayward pump for it to communicate directly. Or, you can buy the 1.85 variable speed motor and Hayward drive, put them on your existing wet end and have a Hayward VSP. That would save about $200 from the cost of a new Hayward W3SP3202VSP, a 1.85thp VSP. Its not a hard project. Don't forget to get a communication cable (they come with a new pump, usually).

Or, you could go the V-Green 1.65 route, save even more money and get very similar results (pump performance would be the same). Putting the V-Green on the wet end is easier, especially when trying to mount the drive on a Hayward motor. It especially takes patience with the drive mounting screws that MUST be completely tightened against the motor for a proper ground. Its not hard, but you must be patient so that they don't break off (ask me how I know).

This is what I'm thinking - go with the cheaper v-green as my prior pump was doing its job in the past as far as I was aware, and save some coin.

Can you expand on the torquing process to make sure that the motor is tight for the proper ground, but not too tight? I've been watching this hayward video here, and they basically just say to bolt it up. Hayward video link. Any details to help me not feel the pain you've dealt with previously would be great :)
Your utility might offer a rebate.

It will require a "Professional" installation, but a rebate can help offset the cost.

The Hayward Tristar would work best for your automation.
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@JamesW thank you so much, I wish this applied to me :(. Sadly I am in an area that is not Duke energy, but its Wake Electric (I'm in Wake Forest NC, outskirts out in the woods a bit). After you shared the Duke one, I did some digging on their website and found some rebates but sadly none for pool pumps.
 
Screw - Replace as in put it back in, they get left off too many times and that is a guaranteed way to ruin the motor.

Wire pump as always and allow the automation to power it on and off.

Also program times for the SWG to coincide with the pump "running" time, not "powered on" time. If pump gets power at 2:00AM, power SWG at 2:10AM. If pump run cycle is set for 14 hours have SWG power off at 3:45PM. Relying on the flow switch is not the best way to control it. In this example you would power off the pump at 1:30AM.

Tighten bolts holding motor to sealplate "snug" (ambiguous word that means tight enough to not back out). Don't use thread lock on the bolts. There is no torque spec on the tightness. If you haven't done much mechanical work ask someone who has to do this. It is easy to overtighten the bolts and pull the brass insert from the sealplate, ruining it. This is not "installing a wheel on a car" tight. You can see the damage on your existing sealplate (upper right insert partially out with what appears to be something trying to repair stripped threads).

Don't forget a new shaft seal. TriStar pumps use a unique seal. There are "Go" kits that have all the gaskets, O rings and seal combined. this one at Amazon is a great price:
 
@1poolman1, @JamesW, and everyone else, I just wanted to update and give you all a sincere thank you! I ended up getting the v-green 1.65 installed and everything seems to be working well. System seems to be holding prime, it took a few minutes to get things primed (by opening valves slowly 1 at a time), but once it's flowing it seems to stay in business. I have had to fight chemical balance but finally got the pool cleared up today, so I am going to start programming it to run less than full-throttle and see if I can get some of this variable pump power savings in place :)
 
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