agarza8543 said:
...Add 8 of the regular size jugs of bleach and 4.5 lbs of ph Minus. (ph Minus first, then waited until sundown to add the bleach).
...still patches on walls and floor of pool and there are also alot of smaller (smaller than a dime) black patches that I was unable to remove; I scrubbed and scrubbed and some came off easily, some did not.
The water is clear.
This morning my readings are:
Total Chlorine - 10
Free Chlorine - 5
PH - 8.2
Alk - 120
CYA - 40
The shock chart says that my FC should be at 16....I just realized that my new test kit only measures up to 10!
So my FC "might" be ok, don't really know because of the test. My PH is still too high; what can I do about this? I add the PH minus as directed but it only moved it by .2.
Do I need to get the muriatic acid? I got a little scared about using the muriatic acid after I read all of the cautions about getting burned.
Muratic isn't hard to use as all. Just take the necessary precautions: safety glasses (good for all chemicals), rubberized gloves, always add acid to a container that already contains water (don't add water to acid), and DON'T inhale fumes!
-Yea, some of had to re-learn about hydrochloric acid fumes from high school chemistry all over again!
Remember that PH readings are not accurate when chlorine levels are high. The have a tendency to read higher than they are.
You can dilute the pool water with distilled water (50-50) and re-run your chlorine test. Double the value that you get and that's a close ballpark value to your actual chlorine.
The TF100 test kit will measure up to 50PPM of chlorine, and it's so easy to use. ...HINT...
If the spots won't come off they may be black algae. Scrub them

, keep at shock level, scrup them again

, keep at shock, etc. You scrub the top layer off, the chlorine gets to the next layer, scub that dead layer off, the chlorine gets to the next layer, etc.
You ARE getting there!
Terry in NC