Salt water pool over shocked

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Newdude said:
That one is a good start but you also need a k-1515 for testing FC. The block test is vague at best and only tests TC which is FC + CC. 5+0=5 and 2+3=5 tell two wildly different stories. Saying the answer is 5 means nothing.
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Nothing in stock here i'll have to order. Pool season just starting here everyone out of stock.
 
Salty1 said:
Yes that worked at bit better now the level is showing in the reading tube above the CYA letters.
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Newdude said:
That one is a good start but you also need a k-1515 for testing FC. The block test is vague at best and only tests TC which is FC + CC. 5+0=5 and 2+3=5 tell two wildly different stories. Saying the answer is 5 means nothing.
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yep next one to find-
 
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Winger 03 said:
Hello Salty1:

A little tough love...... You are not using your pool while you wait for a guy who only comes once per week (when he is not on vacation) to try to "fix" the "mess" he created. Kind of crazy, right?

No one, and I mean NO ONE, will care about your pool more than you will. You are more than halfway to being out of this mess since you have a SWG and found TFP. Here is the hitch to get you the rest of the way home - it will involve a little work, a little knowledge and a very little bit (relative to the pool guy) of money for a test kit.

Sure, it all seems daunting now. But there are a lot of good folks here who have helped literally thousands of people in much worse situations than yours. It is a one step at a time process. We can kick it all off by you picking up a good test kit, and running the numbers - should take about 20 minutes or so. Then just post the numbers here and someone will give you the next step and you are off to the races.

I hope you reconsider letting your pool guy handle the situation.
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Nope get the tuff love--
Bought a kit..tested, posted numbers, well kinda CYA is so high not reading where I can understand it.
 
Flying Tivo said:
Love this threads, in a couple of weeks you will look back and laugh at yourself of how easy and cheap it is to maintain a SWG pool. Keep at it you are in great hands.
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I hope so right now no clue..want to swim in the pool today but we have not in 9 days due to this issue of high CYA and the only real number I have is from pool supply testing water CYA 171. Test kit is showing under the CYA letters on the view tube.
 
You’re already on the right track with your willingness to do some testing. Imagine how you’ll feel being able to know for sure if your pool levels are in line. No reason you should have to look longingly at your pool while the pool guy is away.
 
Salty1 said:
Test kit is showing under the CYA letters on the view tube.
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I don't have this test kit, so I don't know where the "CYA" letters are. Is the sample level reaching the first (lowest) gradient line (which should be 100) before the dot disappears? If the dot disappears before it reaches this line, and you're using a diluted sample, your CYA is above 200 ppm. You can dilute the sample more, but it really won't matter. It'll be time to exchange some pool water.
 
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Salty,

Are you saying that when performing the normal CYA test that the dot disappears before reaching the 100 level? Are you also saying that when performing the diluted test that after filling the tube you can still see the dot? Your normal test means the CYA is over 100 and your diluted test means it is under 60. I don't think that is possible.
 

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cwswifty said:
Salty,

Are you saying that when performing the normal CYA test that the dot disappears before reaching the 100 level? Are you also saying that when performing the diluted test that after filling the tube you can still see the dot? Your normal test means the CYA is over 100 and your diluted test means it is under 60. I don't think that is possible.
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Tested by Leslie's Pool 5/21 since my kit expired CYA= 171
New taylor K-2005 kit;
Tested on 5/22 -The dot disappears below the CYA letters NOT diluted.
Tested on 5/22 1/2 hours later... diluted the dot disappears right above the CYA letters.
All readings are below 100
 
Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
I don't have this test kit, so I don't know where the "CYA" letters are. Is the sample level reaching the first (lowest) gradient line (which should be 100) before the dot disappears? If the dot disappears before it reaches this line, and you're using a diluted sample, your CYA is above 200 ppm. You can dilute the sample more, but it really won't matter. It'll be time to exchange some pool water.
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Yep seems like the bad news if that..now how to do it.
 
Salty,

Does this image show approximately where your 1st (full strength) test and 2nd (1/2 diluted) test levels were? If not maybe you can post some pictures to help us understand.
image001.png
 
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Raganbogan said:
When reflecting on how the CYA got so incredibly high, you might ask that pool guy what product he was putting in. Seems likely to be a combination chlorine and stabilizer, like Di-Zap. This is something to avoid in the future.
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HI-
Im sure some of it recently over shocking and most likely the age of the water.
 
Salty,

Best I can tell you have not yet been able to measure your CYA level. I’m thinking that should be done before determining the path forward.
 
ah--its bin a bit of time..need to update!

5/24--water so out of whack we need to drain the pool or do RO. Found out it was 6 years since the last drain or any amount of water out of the pool. ugh
5/25--Mainly due to our schedule----researched and did RO on 5/26 which company follow up with salt (added 6 40lbs bags) and chemical balance..
5/29--All chems good and salt at 2400, RO company advise to let salt cell do the rest of the work to increase to 3000ppm perfect at 3200
?? --Realized the other half of me did not set max output on cell after 5/30..too many cooks not to mention it needs to be done again after 24 hours

Today 6/6 Liquid test kit;
FC =3.5
TC= 4
B=5
PH=7.7
TA=110
CYA=70
Hard=350
Strip Salt test=2700
Now the question..why not just add another bag of salt? Why let the cell do it?
 
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