Salt water generator?

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Re: Clarifier?

How do you know it isnt a chemical issue without good test results?

If you are asking, I would say no, do not use it yet. Don't drain yet either, but wait for the test kit and post up some numbers. This is the best approach because we are flying blind trying to give advice without them.
 
Re: Clarifier?

I always think of clarifier as a last ditch effort when you can't think of anything else. You are nowhere near that.

I would run the pump 24/7, backwash as needed and add a small jug of CLorox each evening to the pool.

Then, when your kit gets in, please post a full set of numbers and we can help you get it clean.
 
Re: Clarifier?

The only reason I say it's not the chemicals is that it was just filled and crystal clear. When we hooked the filter up we seen the sand blowing out and into the pool. I feel stupid as I should have known there was fine powder in the new sand. I'm sure the chemistry isnt perfect but I do know the cause of the water. I ordered the th100 test kit and is gonna take a while to get here. I'm doing the blea ch as someone suggested before. The test strip they gave me shows the ph a little low and the cya at 0. Didn't want to adjust until I get the test kit. Before I put the tabs in the skimmer ph was good. Cya too low. Waiting on the test kit. So wish I chose the cartridge filter but wanted the sand as cleaning cartridges is a pain.

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Small jug of clorox? I've been adding a half of regular size. Should I add a whole one?
 
Re: Clarifier?

Welcome to TFP Denise. There's a lot of great people here willing to help. The only reason I would drain a pool is for a very high CH or CYA. Here are the recommended levels... Pool School - Recommended Levels

CH and CYA can't be removed easily which is why most people will partially drain the pool if those numbers get high. If you properly monitor your pool and follow the recommendations here, you will never have a problem with high CH/CYA. Start reading the help guides to get educated.
Sand, dirt, bugs, etc., would not be a valid reason to drain. An algae bloom, a cloudy pool or even a pool that looks like a swamp would not be reason to drain as well. Simple chlorine bleach will sanitize the pool of any nasties. Clarifier can help clear up a pool but your pool chemistry is the first, most important step. Do you have a legitimate set of chemistry readings??? Let's start with that first to make a good determination. How about a little history. Did you just buy the pool? What other equipment do you have? Are you sure it's 19,000 gallons? How are you adding chlorine to the pool?

Make sure you get a great test kit from this site. Strips are horrible, the local pool shop is worst. Enable yourself by getting a great test kit and give us your results before draining a pool that most likely does not need to be drained. My guess is that you just need more chlorine then make sure your filter is working correctly. A few days of correct chlorine amount and a good filter will clear up any mess. Sand on the bottom of the pool can be easily vacuumed.
 
Re: Clarifier?

Denisehope said:
Small jug of clorox? I've been adding a half of regular size. Should I add a whole one?
Click to expand...

Keep reading the guides. If you look at recommended levels that I linked earlier for vinyl.

FC 3-7 (See chart)
pH 7.2-7.8
TA 50-90+
CH 0-350 (Don't add)
CYA 30-50

Your FC should be 3 - 7 ppm. Using the Pool Calculator to take your 19k gallon pool from 0 ppm to 7 ppm (0 is now and 7 would be the target using 19000 gallons). It takes over 2 gallons or at least 3 jugs of 96oz bleach.

https://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html

Another chart to look at is the CL/CYA chart. This shows you how much FC you should maintain at certain CYA levels. It sounds like your CYA is very low, maybe zero. Shock FC level is 10 ppm. Which would take 4 jugs of bleach. I'd start with 4 jugs of bleach then add 1/2 a jug per night until my kit came in. Bleach is your friend. It will sanitize the nasties. Now, I wouldn't swim in the pool until I have an accurate chemistry readings, you don't want to swim in a very high CL level or improper PH, etc. But you need bleach and a good filter right now.

Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
 
You can find Diatomaceous Earth powder for pool filter use almost everywhere. Walmart, Leslies, your local pool store are good choices. It's pretty inexpensive.

Try googling "diatomaceous earth cancer"

I've been hearing a lot more great things about food grade DE in preventing cancer and other diseases. Many people swear by its medicinal benefits. A little in your pool filter should not be a problem.
 

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mac4lyfe said:
You can find Diatomaceous Earth powder for pool filter use almost everywhere. Walmart, Leslies, your local pool store are good choices. It's pretty inexpensive.

Try googling "diatomaceous earth cancer"

I've been hearing a lot more great things about food grade DE in preventing cancer and other diseases. Many people swear by its medicinal benefits. A little in your pool filter should not be a problem.
Click to expand...

This is a pool, not a batch of muffins - you ABSOLUTELY DO NOT USE FOOD GRADE DE in a pool!!!

Food grade DE and pool grade DE are completely different. Pool grade DE is heat treated (calcined) at high temperatures to crystallize it and remove organic contaminants. Food grade DE is amorphous silica which does not have the same mechanical and filtration properties as calcined DE. It will plug up your filter and severely cloud a pool.

As for cancer - yes, pool grade DE is an inhalation hazard BUT that only pertains to people working with it in confined areas where fresh air and breezes are not available. In an outdoor setting where you can easily control the exposure to DE dust by simply standing up-wind of it, there is almost no hazard associated with it. You can get it on you skin and it's not a problem. You simply just need to avoid the dust; wearing a simple painters dust mask will be more than adequate in mitigating any dust issues. Also, many pool stores are now selling "low dust" formulations of DE (Leslie's does) and it is DE that is slightly hydrated to make it clumpy in appearance (similar to how adding a small amount of water to a batch of flour makes it clumpy). There is almost no dust associated with it.
 
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