Salt Test is too high, what do i do with my SWG?

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locktyght

locktyght

0
Jul 9, 2018
34
Beaumont Tx
I have a Heyward SWG, and due to recent heavy rains, it was reading really low, so I added salt. A salt test today at Leslies ( I know, I know, thye're the devil) showed nearly double the recommended salt.

Therefore, I don't know what to do with my generator. Should I cut the output back next to nothing, turn it completely off, or leave it in auto. Which option is least likely to cause any harm?

I know the other option is freshwater addition, but Id rather not if its avoidable.

As always, any help is appreciated.
 
You have a T-9 cell but the box is set to a T-15. That's going to make the salinity on the box read lower than actual.

You can change the Tcell type by going to t15 and moving the switch from auto to superchlorinate and back to auto until the tcell type is correct.

The initial display is the average salinity.

When you push the button, the numbers are the diagnostic readings.

Diagnostic Displays
Sequential pushes of the small "diagnostic" button next to the LCD display will cause the Aqua Rite to display the following information:
1. Pool temperature (xx degrees Fahrenheit or Celsius)
2. Cell voltage (xx.x volts)
3. Cell current (x.xx amps)
4. Desired Output % ("0P" -- "100P" depending on knob position or input from remote
pool automation controller)
5. Instant salinity ( -xxxx ppm or -x.xx grams/Liter)
6. Product name sent to the pool automation control display ("AL-0" which signifies "Aqua Rite")
7. Software revision level (r1.xx)
8. Chlorinator cell type (t-3, t-5, t-9, t-15)

On the 9th push of the button the display will revert back to the default salt display.
Also, if the button is not pushed for 30 seconds, the display will revert back to the standard salt display.



Once you reset the tcell type, recheck the diagnostic readings.

If the amps and instant salinity are zero, move the switch to off for a minute then back to auto and recheck the readings.
 
JamesW said:
You have a T-9 cell but the box is set to a T-15. That's going to make the salinity on the box read lower than actual.

You can change the Tcell type by going to t15 and moving the switch from auto to superchlorinate and back to auto until the tcell type is correct.

The initial display is the average salinity.

When you push the button, the numbers are the diagnostic readings.

Diagnostic Displays
Sequential pushes of the small "diagnostic" button next to the LCD display will cause the Aqua Rite to display the following information:
1. Pool temperature (xx degrees Fahrenheit or Celsius)
2. Cell voltage (xx.x volts)
3. Cell current (x.xx amps)
4. Desired Output % ("0P" -- "100P" depending on knob position or input from remote
pool automation controller)
5. Instant salinity ( -xxxx ppm or -x.xx grams/Liter)
6. Product name sent to the pool automation control display ("AL-0" which signifies "Aqua Rite")
7. Software revision level (r1.xx)
8. Chlorinator cell type (t-3, t-5, t-9, t-15)

On the 9th push of the button the display will revert back to the default salt display.
Also, if the button is not pushed for 30 seconds, the display will revert back to the standard salt display.



Once you reset the tcell type, recheck the diagnostic readings.

If the amps and instant salinity are zero, move the switch to off for a minute then back to auto and recheck the readings.
Click to expand...

Thanks, So I have set the cell to 9, what about the instant salinity showing 0?
 
If the amps and instant salinity are zero, move the switch to off for a minute then back to auto and recheck the readings.

If the high salt light comes on, you will need to dilute the water.

You can switch back to t15 to make it work by reading the salinity lower than actual but that's not an ideal solution.
 
JamesW said:
If the amps and instant salinity are zero, move the switch to off for a minute then back to auto and recheck the readings.

If the high salt light comes on, you will need to dilute the water.

You can switch back to t15 to make it work by reading the salinity lower than actual but that's not an ideal solution.
Click to expand...

Thanks Again for the help, been running this thing all wrong.

now the "avg salinty" on the main is up to 3800, amps are 6.34, and instant salinity is now 4400 :oops::oops::oops:
 

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If the cell is definitely a t9 and if it's relatively new, the instant salinity is probably correct.

It might be ok and it might give you a high salt warning and shut down.

If it shuts down, you will have to dilute some.

You can change back to a t15 setting to make it read lower salinity, but that's not a preferred solution.
 
JamesW said:
If the cell is definitely a t9 and if it's relatively new, the instant salinity is probably correct.

It might be ok and it might give you a high salt warning and shut down.

If it shuts down, you will have to dilute some.

You can change back to a t15 setting to make it read lower salinity, but that's not a preferred solution.
Click to expand...
Copy that, I will keep an eye on it, it just kicked off for the day. Thanks again, and i will update day over day
 
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locktyght said:
Copy that, I will keep an eye on it, it just kicked off for the day. Thanks again, and i will update day over day
Click to expand...
So it is holding steady at 4300ppm instant, and there have been no high alarms. Is this good/bad/indifferent for the pool chemistry? Which i am also trying to get back to right.

Current numbers are :

1.5 FC
Couldn't get the color to come back for total chlorine, so I dont know what my total chlorine number is
8.0 PH
120 Alk
0, or next to 0 CYA
80 CH
slide rule shows saturation of +.3

Looking to add CYA, muriatic and chlorine in the calculated doses. Any thing i have missed or should/shouldn't do?

and as always, thanks for any input.
 
You're fine at 4,300 as long as the high salt light does not come on.

It might be a problem as the water warms up. So, try to get the salinity down some as you get a chance.
 
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