Salt reading high but actual level is fine

[T1xchiic]

We recently replaced our t15 salt cell for our Aqua Rite salt cell generator as it kept saying the salt reading was 2200-2700 when it was really 4500. We tested the cell outside of the hook up and saw that it wasn’t bubbling so we determined the cell doesn’t work. When we hooked up the new salt cell and recalibrated it the reading was 4500. Since than we have removed some water from our pool and filled it up a few times (we have an approx 40000 pool)

We haven’t put any salt in the pool in about 3 weeks. The latest reading we got from the pool store was 4000. Since we installed the new salt cell the readings have continued to increase. They go from 4500 to 5200 to 6100. When we try to recalibrate it will not go lower than 5900. Could we have gotten a bad cell or something wrong with the pcb? When we hit the diagnostic the voltage always quickly goes to high 8-9 and than when it’s almost at 10 is when it switches to hit salt and the salt level drops to 0 and the voltage drops to 0 and the salt reading just displays “HI”. The box is also getting very hot to touch which didn’t start happening until it was constantly reading 5000+.

We appreciate any assistance anyone can offer! I’ve attached a copy of the board.

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

Exactly what model cell did you install?

High salt causes high amps in the Hayward system and the system will shutdown and protect itself if amps get over 8 or 10 depending on the system.

You need to lower you salt level further to around 2800 and see what salt level makes the system happy.

 

[T1xchiic]

We got the same cell that lasted us the past 3-4 years Replacement Salt Cell with 15 Foot Cable - 40,000 Gallons | Leslie's Pool Supplies

Our issue is that the swg is not displaying the correct salt level. It started within 500 of the pool store reading and within hours it jumped to 5700-6000 and doesn’t move. Recalibrating doesn’t help. We haven’t added salt in Atleast 3 weeks. The last time we got the water tested a few days ago it was at 4000.

Our system is normally happy around whenever the readings are between 3200-4000. Everything else about the pool is perfect. It’s just the salt reading not displaying correctly which is causing HI constantly. We’re just afraid something is going to make the board fry or if there is something already wrong with the board especially with how hot the box keeps getting.

We did reach out to Leslie’s to see if maybe the cell could just be a bad cell but figured I’d reach out to this community to see if anyone had any suggestions or similar experiences.

 

[ajw22]

That is not a Hayward cell. Members have reported these problems with high salt levels using third party cells and their system worked properly when they used a Hayward cell.

The materials in your replacement cell are not 100% identical to a Hayward cell and that is why the control panel is giving you readings different then normal.

The control box is getting hot because the replacement cell is causing more amps then normal to be drawn. Amps should be less than 7 normally.

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[randytsuch]

You really need to get a good salt test kit to determine your actual salt levels
Salt Testing
And if you don't have a good test kit, you should really get one.

Randy

 

[T1xchiic]

You really need to get a good salt test kit to determine your actual salt levels
Salt Testing
And if you don't have a good test kit, you should really get one.

Randy

We actually don’t have a test kit for salt. We let the pool store that’s a local family business do our testing for everything. There system involves a spin cartridge for testing all levels which includes salt and they have another system that checks just the salt.

I will look into buying a test kit for salt to verify the levels.

 

[T1xchiic]

That is not a Hayward cell. Members have reported these problems with high salt levels using third party cells and their system worked properly when they used a Hayward cell.

The materials in your replacement cell are not 100% identical to a Hayward cell and that is why the control panel is giving you readings different then normal.

The control box is getting hot because the replacement cell is causing more amps then normal to be drawn. Amps should be less than 7 normally.

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

Our previous cell was the same generic cell and this never occurred. Could it possibly be just this cell? Or could there be anything else at all wrong?

My fear is buying a Hayward cell for $900 and than hooking it up and than the issue still is there and than I need to buy a whole new system which when we bought it was $900 and now it’s $1800.

We have had the swg since 2013 and we have replaced the thermistor once. Do the swg last forever or do they end up needing to be replaced every so many years similar to the cell?

 

[randytsuch]

There are lots of stories here about pool stores messing up measurements.
Hard to tell what's going on without a reliable salt measurement.

Recommended reading on your Hayward cell.
The cell has a limited life, it is rated to make 354 pounds of chlorine in its life. The controller will break eventually, but its not life limited like the cell. And if handy, you can fix a controller.

Randy

 

[JamesW]

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:

• Report all readings when you..
  • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
  • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
• What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
• What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

Pressing the diagnostic button sequentially will display:

• Default salt display
• Pool temp
• Cell Voltage - When not generating, the voltage is about 30 to 32 volts dc. When generating, the voltage drops about 1 volt per amp of current.
• Cell current
• Desired output (% of the knob)
• Instant salinity
• Product name
• Software revision (r.XX)
• Cell type

Taylor K-1766 Salt Test Kit

tftestkits.net

 

[ajw22]

Our previous cell was the same generic cell and this never occurred.

That was how many years ago?

With a generic cell you don't know who manufactured it or what quality control there was over it.

Maybe the components in the cell have changed since you last bought it?

Could it possibly be just this cell?

Doubtful. Like I said there are other posts about the same problem.

Or could there be anything else at all wrong?

Could be but when other people used a Hayward cell their system worked normally.

My fear is buying a Hayward cell for $900 and than hooking it up and than the issue still is there and than I need to buy a whole new system which when we bought it was $900 and now it’s $1800.

That is always a risk.

We have had the swg since 2013 and we have replaced the thermistor once. Do the swg last forever or do they end up needing to be replaced every so many years similar to the cell?

Control panels can run many years if run according to Haywards specifications. Once you mix in non-Hayward cells and higher then recommended salt levels all bets are off.

 

[ajw22]

Here is one recent example where the generic cell gave wrong readings and a Hayward cell worked fine.

New Generic salt cell wrong readings

I have a 7000 gal FG pool. Hayward Aquarite Goldlne salt sys. My old salt cell is T3. After a lot of research with prices the way they are, I purchased a generic cell from the Saltpoolstore. According to the specs it was right for my system. I installed, checked the cell type and put in service...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[T1xchiic]

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:

• Report all readings when you..
  • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
  • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
• What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
• What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

Pressing the diagnostic button sequentially will display:

• Default salt display
• Pool temp
• Cell Voltage - When not generating, the voltage is about 30 to 32 volts dc. When generating, the voltage drops about 1 volt per amp of current.
• Cell current
• Desired output (% of the knob)
• Instant salinity
• Product name
• Software revision (r.XX)
• Cell type

Taylor K-1766 Salt Test Kit

tftestkits.net

When I get the salt kit tomorrow I will respond with all of the diagnostics! Thanks!

 

[T1xchiic]

There are lots of stories here about pool stores messing up measurements.
Hard to tell what's going on without a reliable salt measurement.

Recommended reading on your Hayward cell.
The cell has a limited life, it is rated to make 354 pounds of chlorine in its life. The controller will break eventually, but its not life limited like the cell. And if handy, you can fix a controller.

Randy

Ordered the salt test kit! Will post tomorrow once I test. Our pool store is pretty good with not trying to just test to sell us stuff. 99% of the time our pool is perfect when we test there..

 

[JamesW]

This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:

• Report all readings when you..
  • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
  • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
• What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
• What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

Pressing the diagnostic button sequentially will display:

• Default salt display
• Pool temp
• Cell Voltage - When not generating, the voltage is about 30 to 32 volts dc. When generating, the voltage drops about 1 volt per amp of current.
• Cell current
• Desired output (% of the knob)
• Instant salinity
• Product name
• Software revision (r.XX)
• Cell type