My Pentair IC20 SWCG is connected to a Pentair Easy Touch control panel. I noticed that the readout on the SWCG indicated a low salt level. The diagnostic info in the control panel showed "0 PPM". Didn't seem right since the salt level aways ranges from 2,800 - 3,400 ppm. So I checked the salt level using the Taylor K-1722 salt test kit. The result was 3,400 ppm. Thus, I can only assume that the SWCG is not registering the salt level. Any thoughts would be most appreciated. Thank you so much.
Salt PPM Not Registering
- Thread starter Kit
- Start date
Kit,
This is a known issue.. As long as the salt light on the cell is green, then the cell knows what the salt level is, it is just not being read by the EasyTouch..
If the cell is under warranty, call your pool builder, or Pentair, and have it fixed.. If not under warranty, there is no need to fix it at all, unless you just want to.. The problem has been "fixed" by replacing the Flow Switch, the cell itself, the cell's power supply card (surge card) inside the EasyTouch and also the main EasyTouch board.. Obviously the cheapest thing to try is the flow switch..
I suspect it is a timing issue.. I have ScreenLogic and when I bring up the Chlorinator page, the initial reading is zero. About 1/2 a second later it will change to my salt level.. Every once in a while, it will stay at zero.. When it does, the EasyTouch panel itself will also be zero.. Most of the time just reloading the page, will make it work.. If that fails, rebooting the system makes it work for me.. For a lot of others, parts have to be replaced before it starts working again.
Thanks,
Jim R.
This is a known issue.. As long as the salt light on the cell is green, then the cell knows what the salt level is, it is just not being read by the EasyTouch..
If the cell is under warranty, call your pool builder, or Pentair, and have it fixed.. If not under warranty, there is no need to fix it at all, unless you just want to.. The problem has been "fixed" by replacing the Flow Switch, the cell itself, the cell's power supply card (surge card) inside the EasyTouch and also the main EasyTouch board.. Obviously the cheapest thing to try is the flow switch..
I suspect it is a timing issue.. I have ScreenLogic and when I bring up the Chlorinator page, the initial reading is zero. About 1/2 a second later it will change to my salt level.. Every once in a while, it will stay at zero.. When it does, the EasyTouch panel itself will also be zero.. Most of the time just reloading the page, will make it work.. If that fails, rebooting the system makes it work for me.. For a lot of others, parts have to be replaced before it starts working again.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Jim,
Thank you so much for the thorough response. I shut down the power & rebooted the system. Voila! All is good with the world again!
If in the future this becomes a chronic issue, I really don't have a problem with the EasyTouch control panel not "talking" with the SWCG as long as the SWCG continues to produce chlorine.
Thank you again, Jim!
Kit
Again I noticed that the EasyTouch control panel is indicating "0 ppm" for the salt level & the light on the SWCG is a steady red. As before, I will reboot the system again which previously got the EasyTouch & the SWCG to "talk with each other". But my question is this: Assuming that the SWCG itself is not faulty, is it reasonable to assume that chlorine will still be generated?
Thank you.
Kit
Thank you.
Kit
Kit,
What light on the cell is "steady red"????
As long at the salt light on the cell is green, then the cell at least "thinks" the salt level is ok.
The cell is producing chlorine whenever the "Cell" light is on.. Keep in mind that the Cell light goes on and off based on the % of output. At 50% output, the cell light will be on for about 2.5 minutes and off for about 2.5 minutes.
A salt level of zero on the EasyTouch or ScreenLogic is just an indicator problem, not an actual salt problem.
Thanks,
Jim R.
What light on the cell is "steady red"????
As long at the salt light on the cell is green, then the cell at least "thinks" the salt level is ok.
The cell is producing chlorine whenever the "Cell" light is on.. Keep in mind that the Cell light goes on and off based on the % of output. At 50% output, the cell light will be on for about 2.5 minutes and off for about 2.5 minutes.
A salt level of zero on the EasyTouch or ScreenLogic is just an indicator problem, not an actual salt problem.
Thanks,
Jim R.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,576
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
A red light is not good. As Jim said, if the Salt light is Green, all good, if Red, you need to investigate further.
The salt level light is red. Both the flow light & the output light are both steady green. The cell light was off. As previously done, I rebooted the system. The cell light was green for a few seconds, then switch off (as Jim mentioned). However, the salt level light is now a steady green.
So it seems that whenever I reboot the system the EasyTouch panel starts talking to the SWCG. At least for awhile.
So it seems that whenever I reboot the system the EasyTouch panel starts talking to the SWCG. At least for awhile.
If the cell is not getting a good temperature reading, the salt will report as zero.
I would replace the thermistor.
What is the date from the bottom of the cell?
I would replace the thermistor.
What is the date from the bottom of the cell?
Last edited:
Thank you, JamesW. Where is the thermistor located? Is it part of the SWCG itself? I ask this because the water temperature readout on the EasyTouch panel seems to be accurate.
The date on the bottom of the cell is "11/24/2015".
The date on the bottom of the cell is "11/24/2015".
It's in the flow switch.
You can replace the flow switch or you can install a separate temperature probe in the plumbing near the cell.
www.troublefreepool.com
You can replace the flow switch or you can install a separate temperature probe in the plumbing near the cell.
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www.troublefreepool.com
Thank you for informative videos. Forgive me if I missed something, but is there a definitive way to test whether the thermistor is faulty?
Thank you so much!
Thank you so much!
Press and hold the More button until the lights scroll and release the button.
Watch which lights light up and then immediately press and release the More button again and watch which lights light up.
Watch which lights light up and then immediately press and release the More button again and watch which lights light up.
After the lights scroll, the following lights light up: salt level low light is red; cold water light is red; and cell light is green.
When the More button is pressed & released again: the salt level good light is green; the cell light is green; and the flow light is green.
When the More button is pressed & released again: the salt level good light is green; the cell light is green; and the flow light is green.
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