Post your test results. Don’t add any more chlorine powder, use liquid to get it up to at least 5ppm.
Salt Level Help
- Thread starter jrsmith25
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,485
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Yup, get liquid chlorine and then do the FC test 30 minutes after adding the liquid chlorine.
Chlorine will not last long without CYA.
Chlorine will not last long without CYA.
Thanks guys. Should I pick up some cya since without it the chlorine effort will be futile?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,485
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Yes. Get your CYA to at least 30ppm.
Can anyone explain why (you believe) my chlorine levels aren’t even on the scale? My guess is the guy that added the shock either didn’t add enough. It seems most on here recommend liquid chlorine. This was a powdery type additive. Does that cold water play into that as well?
I’m going to do another test tomorrow before I go and buy some LC and CYA.
I’m going to do another test tomorrow before I go and buy some LC and CYA.
Also, for us that have the chlorinators, we add salt and it turns it into chlorine. So why add the shock to begin with?
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,050
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
@jrsmith25
When the water is too cold (usually mid 50’s or below) the cell will begin to not produce.
This means in the winter you will need to manually chlorinate your pool.
Here’s how your unit behaves
When operational, The cell can only produce so much chlorine within a short time period so its best to manually chlorinate and then set the cell to maintain that fc level. They are designed to maintain your fc level not make it up to target from nothing.
Without cya (sunscreen for chlorine)
the uv will consume your fc quickly -
The pool eats fc every day so you must feed it otherwise you will have an algae problem. The minimum your fc should ever be even without cya is 2ppm.
You need both cya (at least 30ppm for the winter) & adequate fc FC/CYA Levels
Waiting days to chlorinate adequately is asking for algae.
When the water is too cold (usually mid 50’s or below) the cell will begin to not produce.
This means in the winter you will need to manually chlorinate your pool.
Here’s how your unit behaves
COLD Water Temperature
- The cell output reduces to 20% at 60°F and below if % is above 20%
- The cell shuts off when water temperature at 50F and below
- LCD displays COLD when water temperature is below 50F
When operational, The cell can only produce so much chlorine within a short time period so its best to manually chlorinate and then set the cell to maintain that fc level. They are designed to maintain your fc level not make it up to target from nothing.
Without cya (sunscreen for chlorine)
the uv will consume your fc quickly -
The pool eats fc every day so you must feed it otherwise you will have an algae problem. The minimum your fc should ever be even without cya is 2ppm.
You need both cya (at least 30ppm for the winter) & adequate fc FC/CYA Levels
Waiting days to chlorinate adequately is asking for algae.
DavidArmenB
Well-known member
- Sep 7, 2022
- 262
- Pool Size
- 16500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Never add salt while the SWCG is on. Mix it completely so it dissolves and wait at least 24 hours with the pump running before turning on SWCG. That may be why you saw that very high concentration on the display. So when spring comes and you’re ready to start up your SWCG, test your water to find salt concentration so you can add any salt you need and let it completely dissolve (>24 hours with pump on) before testing again and turning on the SWCG if the test showed concentration between 2700-3400ppm. For the Taylor test, which measures in 200ppm increments, that would be 2800-3400ppm.