Salt Discrepancy between Taylor and Leslie's

[Bcorig]

I have an Intellchlor generator for my 15,500 gallon pool-spa.
Today, due to inconsistent results from Leslies I used my Taylor K-2006-SALT analysis kit for the first time. While Leslies has consistently given me salt readouts in the 2900 - 3200 range since I added 80 lb on March 20, 2022 after successive weekly readings below 2800
Today, Leslie's readout = 3237 and the Taylor analysis = 4200 (repeated). The other values were within 10-15%. The Intellichlor salt indicator is green. The flow is good. Free Chlorine Total Chlorine = 6.4. CaH = 450 pH = 7.6 TAlk = 110. The Salt generator was 40% I decreased it to 20%. We had a rainstorm (!) or what passes for one out here. Water temp is 76 degrees
Which one should I believe? We have a draught in California do I need to drain the pool? I suppose I could take the mean.

 

[Dirk]

How old are your Taylor salt test chemicals? The Taylor salt test has a 10% degree of accuracy. The procedure for the Taylor test sometimes trips folks up. You stop counting drops when the color first changes to the burnt orange. You do not continue counting drops to see if the color deepens to a "max" hue, as you do with other Taylor tests.

In general, TFP rarely trusts test results from pool stores. Given a choice, we'll pick the Taylor test, as long as the test chemicals have not expired and you're doing the test correctly.

That all said, if your SWG is happy, that's really all that matters.

 

[Dirk]

By the way, welcome to TFP. We base our advice on Taylor tests and your signature. There's not much we can do for you (or rather will be willing to) if you're providing pool store test results and your signature is blank.

Start here: Read This BEFORE You Post

 

[jmastron]

Agree with double checking the reagent dates (and where they've been stored) and that you're stopping at the first "brick red" color change, not the deeper one a few drops later. And that beyond that you should trust your testing over anyone else's.

Even if it is 4200ppm, there's no need to drain anything -- I assume the SWCG isn't showing a "high salt" warning or anything? I believe the Intellichlor spec range is up to 4500ppm anyway, so no need to reduce it, but I wouldn't add any more.

Can you post the rest of your test results from the K-2006 -- in particular FC (using the FAS-DPD test) and CYA? We'll be able to give better advice on what your FC range should be; it's quite likely that 6-8+ppm FC is right where you want to be.

 

[ajw22]

The silver iodine reagent in the salt test is very stable and will last years. Expired reagents is never the problem with the salt test.

The IntelliChlor will keep generating with high salt levels. Even when it gives the high salt LED that is just a warning that your salinity is getting into corrosive levels.

Always check your salt level with YOUR test kit. The K-1766 is the gold standard for testing.

No action is required with your 4200 salt level. Let it drop over time.

And stop going to Leslie for water testing.

 

[Dirk]

Gotta respectfully disagree with Allen's first line. If the Silver Nitrate Reagent of the Taylor salt test turns brown/purple, it should be replaced. The expiration date of any testing chemicals doesn't tell the whole story, it has more to do with how the chemicals are handled and stored. That said, replacing pool test chemicals annually, while not always necessary, is one way to assure yourself that the condition of your test chemicals doesn't become an issue. It's a personal preference. If you suspect a problem, replacing a reagent is a relatively inexpensive way to troubleshoot that problem. If a new reagent gives you the same result, you can continue to use the old one up.

If your salt test chemicals are less than a year old, and you've been storing them properly, they're probably fine.

 

[aussieta]

this is one test where the speed stir really shines
drop, drop, drop, bang terracotta

 

[Jimrahbe]

B,

If you are not using a speed-stir type device, you really should get one.

Unlike a lot of tests, you do not keep adding drops until the color quits changing. You only add drops until the color changes and stays that way. You are not really looking for a very specific color.

With a speed stir you will see the color 'flash' change and then immediately change back. The very first time it changes and does not change back is where you stop testing.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Bcorig]

How old are your Taylor salt test chemicals? The Taylor salt test has a 10% degree of accuracy. The procedure for the Taylor test sometimes trips folks up. You stop counting drops when the color first changes to the burnt orange. You do not continue counting drops to see if the color deepens to a "max" hue, as you do with other Taylor tests.

In general, TFP rarely trusts test results from pool stores. Given a choice, we'll pick the Taylor test, as long as the test chemicals have not expired and you're doing the test correctly.

That all said, if your SWG is happy, that's really all that matters.

Thank you for taking the time to respond. I obtained the Taylor kit primarily because the store results were erratic and variable over time. The day I posted was my first use so there will be a learning curve. I counted drops for salt until the first color change as you described. The IC40 is 4 months old. Thanks again.

 

[Dirk]

because the store results were erratic and variable over time.

Precisely why we encourage the use of your own test kit, and to not use pool store test results. What you experienced is quite common. Only by doing the testing yourself can you be assured that the tests will be performed carefully and consistently each time.

 

[jmastron]

In the end, there's not much downside to assuming your test result is correct (it is more likely to be). If you're right and it's ~4200, then you're in an acceptable range and you can leave it alone -- but it's good to know so you don't go too far above that (which would then be a problem). If you're wrong and it's really ~3200, then at some point after enough rainfall or splashout the actual level will fall below the SWCG's threshold and it'll show a "low salt" warning -- no harm done, just address it at the time. Your testing will show a lower value at that time also. Beware that an SWCG that's scaled or failing can report a falsely-low salt level, so don't keep adding salt just based on that.

I'll second the recommendation for a Speedstir/Smartstir, especially for the salt test but very helpful for the others too. Makes it a lot easier to get consistent results.

We're here to comment on your other test results too -- not to pester, but we'd love to see your own FC, pH, TA, CH, CYA numbers also. In case you couldn't tell, we are big fans of doing our own testing and interpreting. Not all pool stores are maliciously wrong, but they have a lot going on, many people handling the reagents with various levels of experience and care before and during your test, and don't have as much stake in your pool as you do. And there's an inherent conflict of interest when their whole existence requires selling products based on those test results.

 

[Bcorig]

Precisely why we encourage the use of your own test kit, and to not use pool store test results. What you experienced is quite common. Only by doing the testing yourself can you be assured that the tests will be performed carefully and consistently each time.

Agree with double checking the reagent dates (and where they've been stored) and that you're stopping at the first "brick red" color change, not the deeper one a few drops later. And that beyond that you should trust your testing over anyone else's.

Even if it is 4200ppm, there's no need to drain anything -- I assume the SWCG isn't showing a "high salt" warning or anything? I believe the Intellichlor spec range is up to 4500ppm anyway, so no need to reduce it, but I wouldn't add any more.

Can you post the rest of your test results from the K-2006 -- in particular FC (using the FAS-DPD test) and CYA? We'll be able to give better advice on what your FC range should be; it's quite likely that 6-8+ppm FC is right where you want to be.

Thank you for your prompt and understandable reply. I didn't want to cloud up the post or bother anyone but, here goes:
FASDPH FCl = 6.4
CYA = 60
pH = > 8 (afterwards I added 32 oz Muriatic Acid and after 2hrs pH = 7.6; today pH = 7.7)
TA = 110
CA = 450
I have since updated my signature with, possibly, too much information.

 

[Dirk]

EXCELLENT JOB on the signature! You might separate out the two test kits. I have this in my siggie: "Taylor: K-2006 and K-1766 Test Kits", but that's just nit-picking. And test results, too?! Ha, you're one of us now!!

I'll add another "up-vote" for a SpeedStir. It may seem like a frivolous expense, until the first time you use it. Then you'll be "Oh, OK, I get it now!"

 

[Bcorig]

EXCELLENT JOB on the signature! You might separate out the two test kits. I have this in my siggie: "Taylor: K-2006 and K-1766 Test Kits", but that's just nit-picking. And test results, too?! Ha, you're one of us now!!

I'll add another "up-vote" for a SpeedStir. It may seem like a frivolous expense, until the first time you use it. Then you'll be "Oh, OK, I get it now!"

The K-2006 actually includes the salt - read "K-2006 SALT" on the Amazon site. I'll clean it up.
I forgot to mention my SpeedStir arrives the day after tomorrow. I saw the video and got it immediately.
The issue I had with pool guys I had was I never knew exactly what they were doing because 1. They never told me and 2. I Never asked.
And it was my own fault because I just left it up to them.
Doing it myself I became more conscious of the the numbers and I finally got the Taylor because the weekly variations in the Leslie machine were too much for my organized mind to handle. Then, coincidentally, on the same day I found TFP and within 24 hours I know twice as much. And it all makes more sense. Which is why I upgraded to Gold immediately. When I have a question or something odd happens with the equipment there is no one to turn to, or call a technician for $125 to find out a GFI has tripped.
My next goal is to figure out how the blazes this Variable Speed Pump works - all I know is how to set the clock. Only then will I truly become "one of us".
Cheers!

 

[Dirk]

The K-2006 actually includes the salt - read "K-2006 SALT" on the Amazon site. I'll clean it up.

Oops, my bad. I didn't know there was such a thing. Maybe new?

The issue I had with pool guys I had was I never knew exactly what they were doing because 1. They never told me and 2. I Never asked.
And it was my own fault because I just left it up to them.

In your defense, and mine ('cause I did the exact same thing when I bought this house), you're not supposed to have to micro-manage a professional. But that's not the world we live in anymore. My pool boys were always lame. And when I started to deal directly with their manager, I learned why. He was as bad as them when it came to knowing how a pool and its chemistry works. You and your pool are much better off now with you in charge.

The IntelliFlo is a great pump. I can't help much with it, though, as mine is controlled via automation. But you'll get there, you're doing great so far, and learning fast! There are many here that know that pump inside and out. Just ask.

Good job on the SpeedStir, you'll love it.

 

[Newdude]

My next goal is to figure out how the blazes this Variable Speed Pump works

I was supposed to learn. And my service tech guy was trying to teach me during 'pool school' but it wasn't going so well. I was confused about pump runtimes and swg % producing and halfway through his spiel he said :

'Or just run the dang thing on low 24/7 and rarely have to adjust anything'

*record scratch*

back up man !!!! I understood the easy part. I like easy.