Salt, Current, and Salinity showing 0

[Ksnunez]

Hello!
My AquaRite salt display is showing 0 for the salt, current, and salinity. My pool water tests fine and my salt cell is also testing fine. I replaced the Current Limiter thinking it would solve my problem but when you turn it on it shows that it is generating for a few seconds and then the lights go solid for check salt and check cell. Is there something else that might be wrong or do I need to replace the board? Thank you for any light you can shed on my problem!

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

From Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading Read the link for more details on repairing the board.

The salt cell does not have the DC voltage needed to function. The symptoms correlate to either of the following;

• Bad In-Rush Current Limiter (RZ3)
• K1 or K2 Bad solder (most likely suspect)
• Logic Controller failure (worse case scenario)

A replacement board should fix this issue. If you're technically inclined, you might save the existing board by inspecting the solder or by replacing the relay if determined faulty.

 

[Ksnunez]

I replaced the current limiter and the solder looks good. How would I test the relay?

 

[Ksnunez]

Welcome to TFP.

From Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading Read the link for more details on repairing the board.

The salt cell does not have the DC voltage needed to function. The symptoms correlate to either of the following;

• Bad In-Rush Current Limiter (RZ3)
• K1 or K2 Bad solder (most likely suspect)
• Logic Controller failure (worse case scenario)

A replacement board should fix this issue. If you're technically inclined, you might save the existing board by inspecting the solder or by replacing the relay if determined faulty.

• #3

I replaced the current limiter and the solder looks good. How would I test the relay?

 

[ajw22]

Read the Power Distribution section in the link. You can trace voltages using a multimeter.

 

[Ksnunez]

Read the Power Distribution section in the link. You can trace voltages using a multimeter.

Ok thank you, I’ll check out that thread. Don't have any help so trying to save money without having to get a new board. Here are pictures of my board the front solder looks good but I’m not sure about the back solder. I’m also noticing the burnt spots in the middle of the board. Could that indicate a problem?

 

[ajw22]

Yup, those burnt solder joints are a problem. They connect to a relay?

 

[Ksnunez]

Yup, those burnt solder joints are a problem. They connect to a relay?

Yes they connect to these ones. Did you think the solder on my current limiter looked ok or do I need to put more solder on the back?

 

[ajw22]

The two blackened points are connections to the K1 and K2 relays. You need to try and fix them.

 

[christo]

Hello!
My AquaRite salt display is showing 0 for the salt, current, and salinity. My pool water tests fine and my salt cell is also testing fine. I replaced the Current Limiter thinking it would solve my problem but when you turn it on it shows that it is generating for a few seconds and then the lights go solid for check salt and check cell. Is there something else that might be wrong or do I need to replace the board? Thank you for any light you can shed on my problem!

how did you test the cell?

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

Ks,
Allen is on the right track.
You can try to add more fresh solder to the Thermistor but you cannot add more solder on the back because the solder pads are gone!
The problem now is, the relay post is not making good contact with the solder pads (see pics below). You need to gently scrape off the coating around the solder until the copper is exposed. Then add fresh solder.

 

[Ksnunez]

how did you test the cell?

I took it to my pool store.

 

[Ksnunez]

Ks,
Allen is on the right track.
You can try to add more fresh solder to the Thermistor but you cannot add more solder on the back because the solder pads are gone!
The problem now is, the relay post is not making good contact with the solder pads (see pics below). You need to gently scrape off the coating around the solder until the copper is exposed. Then add fresh solder.

So I replaced the relays and it appears it solved my problem as it is not saying check salt and check cell. It says it’s generating but randomly the salinity and current will show zero. Is that normal?

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

Did you actually replace the relays or fixed the solder? Do you mind posting the diagnostic readings?

With the pump running, move the switch to auto and wait for a few secs until you hear the relay clicked.
Press the diagnostic button and fill in the below in order.
1. average salinity =
2. pool temperature =
3. Cell voltage =
4. Cell current =
5. Desired Output % =
6. Instant salinity =
7. Product name =
8. Software Rev =
I am guessing you have an older 1.4x pcb and therefore, you may not see the cell type.
9. Chlorinator cell type (t-3, t-5, t-9, t-15)

Move the switch to off and then back to auto, wait for the click and repeat the steps.
1. average salinity =
2. pool temperature =
3. Cell voltage =
4. Cell current =
5. Desired Output % =
6. Instant salinity =
7. Product name =
8. Software Rev =

 

[Ksnunez]

Did you actually replace the relays or fixed the solder? Do you mind posting the diagnostic readings?

With the pump running, move the switch to auto and wait for a few secs until you hear the relay clicked.
Press the diagnostic button and fill in the below in order.
1. average salinity =2900
2. pool temperature =82
3. Cell voltage =24.9
4. Cell current =5.94
5. Desired Output % =100p - I have it here because there is no chlorine in the pool.
6. Instant salinity =-3100
7. Product name =AL-5
8. Software Rev =r 1.4
I am guessing you have an older 1.4x pcb and therefore, you may not see the cell type.
9. Chlorinator cell type (t-3, t-5, t-9, t-15) Correct! but my cell is a T-15

Move the switch to off and then back to auto, wait for the click and repeat the steps.
1. average salinity =2900
2. pool temperature =82
3. Cell voltage =31.0
4. Cell current =0
5. Desired Output % =100p
6. Instant salinity =-0
7. Product name =AL-5
8. Software Rev =r 1.4

Sorry for the late reply, it's been a crazy 2 weeks. I fixed the solder and replaced the relays. So at first it seemed to be working fine but this last week there is no chlorine in the pool. I can recalibrate the display so the numbers are fine in the morning but by the end of the day my average salinity drops below 2300. I know my salt level in the pool is fine because I had it tested. I feel like it starts generating and then cycles off and never clicks back on. I've been watching it this morning and after about 2 hours it clicks off and the cell current and instant salinity is at 0. I've checked at 1 hr and 2 hrs after it clicked off and it still hasn't clicked back on. Time for a new board?

 

[JamesW]

Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Report all readings.

 

[JamesW]

Move the switch to off and then back to auto, wait for the click and repeat the steps.
1. average salinity =2900
2. pool temperature =82
3. Cell voltage =31.0
4. Cell current =0
5. Desired Output % =100p
6. Instant salinity =-0
7. Product name =AL-5
8. Software Rev =r 1.4

Change the AL-5 to AL-0 by moving the switch from auto to superchlorinate and back to auto and then do the above procedure.

 

[Ksnunez]

Move the switch to off and then back to auto, wait for the click and repeat the steps.
1. average salinity =2900
2. pool temperature =84
3. Cell voltage =25.1
4. Cell current =6.08
5. Desired Output % =100p
6. Instant salinity = -3000
7. Product name =AL-0
8. Software Rev =r 1.4

Change the AL-5 to AL-0 by moving the switch from auto to superchlorinate and back to auto and then do the above procedure.

Ok, above are new #'s. Did you want me to check numbers more than once?

 

[JamesW]

Those numbers look good. If you switch it off and then back on, the instant salinity should be about the same. If it is, everything looks good and is working correctly.

To get the performance percentage of the cell, divide the instant salinity reading by the actual salinity reading.

For example, if the instant reading is 2,600 ppm and the actual is 3,000, the performance percentage is 87%.

The cells usually don’t die all at once; they usually fade out over time before dying completely.

I recommend replacing the cell when the performance percentage drops below 75%.

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.

K-1766 Taylor Salt Test

tftestkits.net

 

[JamesW]

Note that the cycle time is 120 minutes. The percentage setting determines how long the cell produces during the 120 minutes. For example, at 50%, the cell will produce for 60 minutes and then be off for 60 minutes. The amps and instant salinity will be zero during the off part of the cycle. The “Generating” light will be on the whole time even during the off part of the cycle.