Saddle tee okay for adding temperature probes to my solar lines?

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Rootyb

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Feb 24, 2015
65
Davis, CA
So, I’m hoping to add some WiFi temperature monitoring with D18B20 temperature probes, but I need a way to get them into my pipes. I could add tees to my lines (then JB weld the sensors into screw caps in the tees), but that will be a pretty major pain.

Saddle tees look promising, but I’m seeing mixed reports on how much pressure they can handle.

Solar is on a single-story roof. 2” pipe throughout.

Thoughts on whether saddle tees would be alright?
 
First, I'm not a big fan of saddle tees. They just seem like a point of failure to me.

Now, I'm confused as toe the sensor. Does it screw in? If so, just use a PVC "T" that has screw threads on one side. No need for the wonder of the world, JB Weld (that stuff will fix almost anything).
 
This is the sensor:
97144

There are screw-in versions, but they're quite a bit more expensive ($15ish vs like, $3). Plus, if I want to get one for only $15, it'll take like, a month to ship (thanks, Aliexpress!). Otherwise, it's $20-30, and at that point, I might as well just buy an aftermarket Pentair sensor, which would be easier to install, butmore of a hassle to wire up, requiring a second wifi module.

A tee is probably doable, but is doing it this way okay for pressure lines? Seems like shallow overlap on the coupling.
021274088ExpertsPipe-700x467.jpg
 
What you need for your temp probe is a "thermowell". It will thread into a standard NPT fitting and it has a hollow in the center to put the probe into. You can thread the wall of PVC pipe with 1/4" NPT threads and get a good seal. If you want to be extra sure about threading the pipe put the threads into a fitting where the wall will be double thick.

Industrial Thermowell, 304SS, 1/4" NPT Amazon.com: Industrial Thermowell, 304SS, 1/4" NPT: Industrial & Scientific
 
Yeah, I've seen that as an option, too, but is there any real benefit to that over just a threaded probe?

Interesting to hear that you can thread directly into the wall of a pipe or fitting, though. That might make using a threaded sensor worth it.
 
I assumed you already had the non threaded sensor.

The point to a thermowell is you can change a sensor without draining the pipe, the sensor can be cheaper because it doesn't contact the process fluid, it can means using the same sensor across multiple applications.

There are lots of reasons to use thermowells.
 
Chuck, thanks for posting about the thermowells...I will be using that method on my project.

Rootyb, I would also be nervous about the overlap of the joints shown in that wye diagram, unless you can find schedule 40 slip couplings that slide all the way onto a pipe (that seems to be what they are showing but I have never seen those, or maybe they only exist for the lower-pressure dmv applications?).

This method that I have used is messy but I have never had a problem with those standard Home Depot unions...use two of them to insert your T. Here is a picture of my piping with a few of those around where I’ve made changes.

Optimize Your In-Floor Cleaning Effectiveness and Efficiency

So, my re-plumbing job is finished and it went really well. I probably missed jonpcar off for his cruise, but will quickly report that the main goal of my re-plumb was achieved. That is, the pressure loss from filter to Caretaker manifold was drastically reduced. I am really happy about that...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
Hmmm. The couplers seem like a good idea too.

For now, I went ahead and ordered a few threaded probes (found them for $8 each. Still have to wait a month though). I figure if I try threading a hole in the pipe wall and it doesn’t work out, I can always install a tee there. ?

Thanks for the input everyone!
 
You could cut the stops out of a collar to get that effect, I also believe I saw purpose collars for that at $2.50 instead of $0.97 at HD.

I've done repairs on lines and it does take quite a bit of pipe to just to install a collar (tee) by itself so that way is better (wye pic) as it will work every time.
 
Casey I haven’t seen the “purpose collar” but I will look for it next time I’m at Home Depot...that would be a nice part to have for some fixes. Another option, if taking out the stops can be done effectively, is to simply take out the stops on a “tee” and slide it to one side (and then back), might that be possible? I’m asking because I might be in a similar position to the OP in a few months, haha.
 

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I thought that with the tee too but didn't mention it.

Here's the "repair coupling" it's Dwv but close to return it's ok, I would still rather use a sch 40 and remove the "center stop"

www.homedepot.com

NIBCO 1-1/2 in. PVC DWV Hub x Hub Repair Coupling Fitting C4801RPHD112 - The Home Depot

Use the NIBCO INC 1-1/2 in. PVC DWV Repair Coupling to splice together stationary lengths of PVC-DWV piping. The coupling is designed for use with drain, waste and vent piping systems. PVC fittings exhibit
www.homedepot.com
 
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