Run pump less than 24/7 to save on electricity?

[pcm2a]

We recently moved into a house that has a pool/spa combo. The spa overflows down a waterfall into the pool and the pool pump is 1.5hp. Summers in Nashville are so hot and humid that I have ran the pump 24/7 which is costing around $4.50 a day to run (calculated using an energy monitor with smartthings). My thought is that as fall and winter come I could reduce the amount of time that the pump runs, maybe cutting it back 8 or 12 hours at night. It will automatically come on and cycle through all of the pumps if the temperature drops to freezing.

My concern is with the spa. When the pool pump is off the spa drains out into the pool and the spa remains empty. Will it be hard on it to sit for hours at a time empty during the winter? I have attached a picture of what the spa/pool look like. If running it less than 24/7 is not possible then my next idea is to look into a variable speed pump.

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!

Your spa should not drain completely. It should stay full up to the level it runs into the pool. You need to review your valve set up and see what can be changed to not allow it to drain.

You should also be able to not run 24 hours a day. Most pools only need to run long enough to keep the water clean and generate chlorine if using a SWCG.

Can you fill out a signature? See Pool School - Read This BEFORE You Post

 

[pcm2a]

I've updated my sig best I could. If I switch from pool mode to spa mode then it does not drain down into the pool. So I guess the trick is to switch to spa mode and leave all pumps off.

 

[mas985]

Do you have any check valves? Post a picture of your pad equipment and plumbing.

 

[pcm2a]

Here is a picture of the pumps/valves and one where I turned the pool filter off and it drained to just below the spa jets. I'll grab some better photos of the check valves in the daylight tomorrow. One of them is not in the photo.

I assume it was designed this way because I called in a pool place to change out the spa light. I didn't realize how ridiculous easy it was to do it myself. He went right to the controller, turned off the pool filter, waited for it to drain out then changed the bulb so he didn't have to climb in there.

 

[mas985]

If there are check valves in the correct positions, it should prevent the spa from draining.

 

[ride525]

I just fixed my Jandy suction valve, that diverted suction to either Pool or Spa. There was some pieces of palm tree in there not allowing it to close off the spa drain completely when in "Pool" mode.

Took is apart and put the three new O-rings back in (it was perhaps leaking air, as there was a lot of air in the returns.) I actually replaced the gate while it was open, but pretty certain it was just the pieces of palm tree preventing the valve from completely closing the spa drain.

 

[pcm2a]

Thanks for all of the help so far. I have taken a few more photos and added some labels. Hopefully someone can tell me where a check valve should be to prevent the spa from draining when the pool filter is off or how to determine if the existing check valve is stuck.

This is an image of the whole area, there are two check valves (three including the one on the blower which is not pictured). One check valve is on the input line to the spa filter. The other check valve is on the output line from the heater back to the pool. If I have traced it wrong let me know.

This is the check valve on the output of the heater going to the pool. Was tricky to photo in the sunlight, I can try again with a towel over it.

Finally here is the check valve on the input to the spa pump:

 

[mas985]

The bypass from the heater to the spa suction will allow water to flow from the spa back to the pool. If you close off that bypass (currently open), does the spa still drain? If not, you could put another check valve right after the heater or keep that valve closed unless you are using the spa with the heater. I don't think you really need that bypass anyway.

 

[pcm2a]

The bypass from the heater to the spa suction automatically changes when changing from pool mode to spa mode. Below are photos of the two bypasses that change. Is it safe to turn it by hand with the pump off? If so I will turn off the pool pump and turn the valve and see what happens. Would it also be useful to turn the pump back on in that configuration and see what happens?

Pool mode:

Spa mode:

 

[mknauss]

You do not turn the valve handle. There is a switch on the backside of your actuator. Flip it to the other setting and your valve will move. Be sure to flip it back if you want the valve to actuate the way it is currently set up.

 

[pcm2a]

I might have mentioned this previously but when the pool is in spa mode the hot tub does not drain out, even with the pumps off. The bypass valve had a 3 position switch 2 auto, off and 1 auto. I flipped it the other way, which is how it turns when it goes into spa mode. No water was lost from the spa. I flipped it back again and I can visually see the water draining out of the check valve that I labeled "Check valve out from heater". Should it be draining out of this check valve?

 

[mknauss]

Since that worked, follow Mark's suggestion of either adding a check valve or not using the bypass.

Take care.

 

[pcm2a]

Leaving the bypass in the other direction might not be the right path. In that position with the pool pump on the spa jets and spillover work but none of the jets in the pool are going. The check valve sounds like the right way. One more image to make sure I understand where the check valve should go and the direction the water is going that is causing me to lose from the spa.

 

[mas985]

Yes the picture is correct.

 

[pcm2a]

Thanks so much for the help, it works! I cut the PVC with a hacksaw (like butter), sanded the edges, put primer on all pieces and then cement, jammed it all together but wasn't able to get it turned facing outward like I wanted it. No leaks and now the spa does not drain back into the pool.