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G

G23

0
Apr 2, 2018
16
Baton Rouge, La
Pool Size
33000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Good evening
I am preparing to SLAM my pool. Other than adding stabilizer and lowering the pH to 7.2. Should I wait to address TA until after the SLAM is complete?

TH- 100
FC - 0
pH - 7.8
TA - 40
CYA - 0

Also, I am using 3" Suncoast Chlor tabs (trichlor).

Thanks!!

pool.jpg

 
You have been using trichlor and your CYA is zero? Have you drained and refilled the pool?

What is your CC. This test is done with the FC sample immediately after completing the FC test. Do that if possible.
 
Good morning, I failed to provide enough detail. My pool has been dormant for the past 4 months. I had not treated it or run it in that time frame. There was a significant amount of debris and green slim on the bottom. I have managed to get most of it out but due to the cloudiness of the water I am unable to see the bottom.

I shocked my pool roughly 2 weeks ago without adjusting the CYA levels. I managed to clear up the algae but the pool remained cloudy and the algae is back. I am using liquid chlorine for the SLAM. The chlorine tabs are a recent purchase and are how I plan to keep the water sanitized after I get over the algae hump.

The CC was 0 as well.
 
OK -- I was concerned about ammonia. CC of 0 is a good sign.

I would still add 10 ppm worth of LC, pump on, and then test FC and CC after 15 minutes. Report what the results are here.

I would suggest rethinking using trichlor for daily sanitation. Very difficult to maintain the FC/CYA Levels
 
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Tabs, pucks, sticks ect all have problems associated with their use. They bring along either too much stabilizer, copper or calcium and it often ends badly for folks who don't exchange water at winter.

Your pool is ideal for a nice big Salt Water Generator so you won't have to always be adding chlorine--> let it do the work! Have you considered this?

Maddie :flower:
 
As per the pool math calculator, I added 3.5 gallons of liquid chlorine to the water. However, I was only able to wait 10 minutes before taking a sample to the pool store. Considering the results I got from them I decided to use a test strip as well.
Pool Store
TH - 70
FC - 0
CC - 0
pH - 7.6
TA - 60
CYA - 0

Test Strip (sample taken 30 - 40 mins after adding LC) Also, the test strip does not measure CC.
TH - 100
FC - 5
pH - 7.6
TA - 40
CYA - 0

Lastly, in the spirit of full disclosure. The water is slightly greener this afternoon than it was last night. Should I wait to re-test tomorrow before adding more LC?

@yippyskippy, I thought about converting to a salt system and decided to stick with my current setup after the warranty company agreed to replace a bunch of stuff that was not working properly.
 
You cannot follow the protocols I discussed without your own proper test kit.

I suggest you add 10 ppm worth of LC each day to your pool with the pump running while you are waiting for your test kit.
 
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I see some problems with your test results, but don't trust the testing enough to mention. You have to decide if you want to go the Pool Store way or the TFP way. And the TFP way includes having your own reliable drop test kit, no strips.

Let us know what you decide :)

Maddie :flower:
 
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Good decision!

Keep the large organics out of the pool by leaf net, etc. The LC each day is to just keep the algae from growing more. Find some CYA granules and most likely some calcium chloride. You might look at Amazon unless you know of a good source in your area. Also stock up on good strength LC when you find it.
 
SWEET! I am SO glad to hear this. Here is your jobs for now:
-brush the pool-yeah it will make it look worse but it will break the shell on the algae allowing the chlorine to do it's thing.
-Keep the pump/filter running so it can mix the water and do some filtering.

Let us know as soon as the test kit gets there............while you are waiting you can watch the videos TF100TestKit That way you will have some idea what to expect. Know your first few tests will take longer. Once you do a few you will find it is easy and faster as you know what to do and expect.

Kim:kim:
 
Pay attention to your filter. Make sure when the pump is off the pressure on the gauge goes back to "0". If the pressure gauge goes too high you'll need to clean it and then note what clean psi (pressure) is on your system. Green pools many times necessitate a filter to clog faster and therefore clean more often in your case backwashing.
 
wireform said:
Pay attention to your filter. Make sure when the pump is off the pressure on the gauge goes back to "0". If the pressure gauge goes too high you'll need to clean it and then note what clean psi (pressure) is on your system. Green pools many times necessitate a filter to clog faster and therefore clean more often in your case backwashing.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I backwashed the sand filter and cleaned the screen on caretaker system as well.
 
Update: I finally got my TF100 Test Kit. While waiting for it to arrive I let the filter run but I did not add any chlorine to it. As per the PoolMath calculator, I added 4 gallons of 10% LC from Home Depot to the pool. I waited for about an hour and tested my FC (5). I then added another 2 gallons of LC in order to raise the FC to 10. Also, I tested the CYA twice and watched a couple of videos to make sure I was doing it right. The water remained cleared! As always thanks for your help!

Here are my numbers as of tonight.
FC - 1
CC - 1
TC - 2
CH- 125
TA - 70
CYA - 0
pH- 7.2
 
When testing for FC, I got to a point where the water turn clear and then return to a slight pink color. Should I stop at this point or keep adding the R-0871?


This morning’s numbers:
FC - 14
CC- 1.5
TC - 15.5
 
Once the sample turns clear, record the result. If it sits, it will turn pink again. Ignore that.
 

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