Reviewing my pool plumbing

mguzzy

Gold Supporter
Its been just about 15 years since I redid my pool equipment. Its held up amazingly well. About 5 years ago I replaced the SWG (got 9yrs out of the first one). Lately over the last couple of seasons I've noticed things are starting to need more attention. I finally had to start replacing the pump motors. The main and booster pumps went out within a year of each other (got 13 and 14 years out of those). Also had to fix the gas valve in the heater and new gaskets and bulbs in the lights... If I had the time and money I probably would have gone with a VS pump, but I just replaced things with the same equipment.

So that got me thinking about the rest of my setup. After spending more time reading through other installations threads I wonder if I need to tweak my setup. It has run fine for 15 years, so this may fall in the category of "if it ain't broke don't fix it". I have no automation system, really don't want one, I'm not sure what it would gain for me, just good ole fashioned Intermatic timers, one for the pool pump and one for the sweep. So before I start wacking at things with a hack saw I thought I would post a question or two. Some things I noticed.

-no check valve on intake. technically I should probably have a check valve on my pump intake especially since the equipment is about 18" above the pool level. But I was told by the installer since the pump holds its prime then there is no need for a check valve. Besides they just reduce your head pressure, he also opined... is that old school thought? I think this was before the Jandy check valves became more common and the old hardware store PVC spring check valves where more the norm. The only time I need to reprime is when I clean out my leaf basket, maybe once a month.

-I have a Hayward Agua Rite controller with a T-Cell-15 SWG. I see TFP posts recommending that SWG controllers should be on its own timer... mine is tied to the pool pump timer per the diagram in the original installation manual. So when the pool pump comes on so does the controller. Should this really be on its own timer? I guess that if more a consideration if I was running a VS pump that ran all the time, Yes?

-I have also seen conflicting information about putting a check valve between the SWG and the other pool equipment to protect it against back flow of cell water to the other equipment components. It wasn't in the installation guidelines when I installed it and it seems some recommendations on TFP say its fine if you don't.

-Planning to add a valve to control the flow on the waterfall. And I'll mod the lever so it doesn't close all the way to protect the pump.

Is there anything else you'all can think of?

TIA
 
I'm in the school of "if it ain't broke, don't try to fix it cause you just might break it"

You don't need a check valve in front of the pump. I agree that it just adds head loss. The pump can pull the prime when it needs to and 18" lift is minimal. The only time I'd make an exception is if it takes the pump more than 30-60 seconds to prime. Then I'd consider it.

Other than the T-15 being a bit small for your pool, I don't see any issues. You can control the SWG output via setting the percentage. A timer is handy, but you should still tie power to the SWG through the pump so that it is impossible for the SWG to produce while the pump is off. I'd keep it as is for now based on your SWG size.

There is no need for a check valve between the SWG and other equipment. That check valve requirement is only for chlorinators that use pucks. The SWG doesn't make enough chlorine to need a check valve and there isn't really any acidic conditions to harm equipment.

Only other item is to make sure you have sufficient unions at the equipment so that you don't have to cut pipe to replace equipment. Sufficient valves to be able to perform maintenance without draining the system. (not a big deal on inground pools since pool water is lower than equipment.)

I'd caution you about cutting into 15+ year old pvc thats been sitting out in the sun. It can get brittle and crack. Maybe make the first few cuts in area you are going to replace to test this out.
Painting the PVC when you're done can put the finishing touches on it and make it look pretty.
 
Thanks for you input and suggestions Teald.
So the Tcell15 is rated for a 40K gal pool. and mine is a dash bigger than 20K. How is that a bit small? Just curious.
Doesn't sound like adding a check valve on the main pump is worth it. It takes a bit longer than that to prime, And its even quicker if I make sure I haven't lost the prime on the other intake-Spa or pool. I just switch the valve to the other return.
I'm not worried about cutting into the PVC.. its been in the shade for all those years.
And yes I made sure all the equipment is connect via unions to the plumping in case I have to service it. I suppose I should post some pics.
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.