Return pvc pipe leak at the joint, how easy is it for zero plumbing exp guy?

You could also glue a Union on that pipe and plug it while you glue up the other side at a slower pace. Then connect the Union When the rest is glued up.
 
Is the location below the water level ? If so when you turned off the skimmers you turned on the main drain and it will leak. If you are above water level than it’s not the main drains either way.
 
Is the location below the water level ? If so when you turned off the skimmers you turned on the main drain and it will leak. If you are above water level than it’s not the main drains either way.
That’s the pool water return pipe. It has to be one of the return ports on the wall leaking. Not skimmer or drain. Is there an auto-fill maybe?
 
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That’s the pool water return pipe. It has to be one of the return ports on the wall leaking. Not skimmer or drain. Is there an auto-fill maybe?
Nope, no auto fill that I'm aware of. It is a maybe 30-yr old pool, and the guys only did the bare minimum to retore it back to function, mainly replaster and tile/coping repair.

It is not fully stopped but now water rises very slowly. Not sure if it is because I plugged the polaris ports or because there is indeed this much water in the pipes. It took over 3 hours to reach this point.

Now that it is open, and considering this much hassle of water needs to drain out, what apparatus I can use to not having to go through this next time pvc repair is needed?

I do still have that plastic ball valve, but not sure if it is that unreliable (I heard return line isolation valve is not absolutely needed, but in my case...).
 
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Nope, no auto fill that I'm aware of. It is a maybe 30-yr old pool, and the guys only did the bare minimum to retore it back to function, mainly replaster and tile/coping repair.

It is not fully stopped but now water rises very slowly. Not sure if it is because I plugged the polaris ports or because there is indeed this much water in the pipes. It took over 3 hours to reach this point.

Now that it is open, and considering this much hassle of water needs to drain out, what apparatus I can use to not having to go through this next time pvc repair is needed?

I do still have that plastic ball valve, but not sure if it is that unreliable (I heard return line isolation valve is not absolutely needed, but in my case...).
Put a union on that return pipe and then next time you can just unscrew it instead of cutting it. Also makes it less traumatic if you need to redo the plumbing later. I don’t know that you need an isolation valve there. The home center valves do kinda suck once they get old though.
 
Put a union on that return pipe and then next time you can just unscrew it instead of cutting it. Also makes it less traumatic if you need to redo the plumbing later. I don’t know that you need an isolation valve there. The home center valves do kinda suck once they get old though.
Can you elaborate on what the order of piecing it together in my current situation (pipes cut)?

I would need multiple unions i suppose? Otherwise how do I rotate the pipe off or the union is the part to be rotated?
 
Can you elaborate on what the order of piecing it together in my current situation (pipes cut)?

I would need multiple unions i suppose? Otherwise how do I rotate the pipe off or the union is the part to be rotated?
Just one. They use a rubber o-ring and a threaded collar to join the two ends of the pipe. Don’t have to rotate any pipes.
869F7654-4711-4AFD-BFEF-F2459385F690.jpeg
 
Just one. They use a rubber o-ring and a threaded collar to join the two ends of the pipe. Don’t have to rotate any pipes.
View attachment 365798
If you do put a shutoff on it, just make sure not to leave it closed when the pump is running. 😁 I didn’t need one since my pipes are above the water level but if yours is below, I wouldn’t harm anything to add it and might help shut water off sooner than 3 hours for the next time. I’d recommend the jandy neverlube shutoff though.
 

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How about those union ball valve, if the valve is bad I don't need to cut pipe to replace?
Up to you. You don’t need to the the pipe again if you have a union on it. If you use the union ball valve, then you need to hope that exact valve is available as a replacement when the knob freezes up over time. The normal unions see to be standard. See if a pool store has a jandy valve instead.
 
local leslie told me the Jandy has been OOS for the entire season.o_O
I’ve heard they have been popular. 😁 I guess it’s up to you if you want one or not. The one you have may be fine for a while. Just be aware of the tendency to stick over time. Just make sure it’s not necked down to less than your pipe inner diameter. Some of them are much smaller hole when you look down through them.
 
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