Resistance measurement between L1 and L2 on Hayward 1.5hp pump set up for 115v?

[zico21]

My question is if anyone knows what the resistance should be between L1 and L2 with the 115/230 jumper placed in the 115v position and the pump is disconnected from the AC circuit? Long story follows…

I’m adding a DEWENWILS WiFi timer to our Hayward 1.5 super pump set up on a 115v circuit. I’ve completed the installation and the timer is working correctly and in the process I replaced the outdoor box including a new Liquidtite AC whip harness to make the pool hardwired as the pump was installed using a regular plug. Our pool has been close for the season and the pump is in my workshop. I wired the pump end of the harness and being a retired copier technician, my AC motor knowledge is not strong (although DC and logic is) I decided to do a quick check of the wire installation for any possible pinched wires (very unlikely as it’s simply connecting three wires) by doing a resistance check between each wire to ground to see if any wires some how got pinched anywhere. This was done without the wiring being connected to any AC circuit. Overkill, but I’m a cautious guy.

No shorts to ground, but a short between the Black (L1) wire and the Red(“white”x115v, L2) wire within the new harness while connected to the pump. I then disconnected the harness from the pump and measured across the L1 and L2 connections on the pump and that was a short (no resistance). I suspect it has something to do with the 115\230v jumper position (which is in the proper 115v position) as the pump was working perfectly before being brought inside after the pool was closed. I found a good troubleshooting guide to check the winding resistance of the three sets in the motor and they all checked out correctly. I have no reason to suspect anything is wrong, it‘s just wasn’t what I was expecting. So I’m asking if anyone can confirm this on a Hayward 1.5 super pump.
Cheers!

 

[1poolman1]

My question is if anyone knows what the resistance should be between L1 and L2 with the 115/230 jumper placed in the 115v position and the pump is disconnected from the AC circuit? Long story follows…

I’m adding a DEWENWILS WiFi timer to our Hayward 1.5 super pump set up on a 115v circuit. I’ve completed the installation and the timer is working correctly and in the process I replaced the outdoor box including a new Liquidtite AC whip harness to make the pool hardwired as the pump was installed using a regular plug. Our pool has been close for the season and the pump is in my workshop. I wired the pump end of the harness and being a retired copier technician, my AC motor knowledge is not strong (although DC and logic is) I decided to do a quick check of the wire installation for any possible pinched wires (very unlikely as it’s simply connecting three wires) by doing a resistance check between each wire to ground to see if any wires some how got pinched anywhere. This was done without the wiring being connected to any AC circuit. Overkill, but I’m a cautious guy.

No shorts to ground, but a short between the Black (L1) wire and the Red(“white”x115v, L2) wire within the new harness while connected to the pump. I then disconnected the harness from the pump and measured across the L1 and L2 connections on the pump and that was a short (no resistance). I suspect it has something to do with the 115\230v jumper position (which is in the proper 115v position) as the pump was working perfectly before being brought inside after the pool was closed. I found a good troubleshooting guide to check the winding resistance of the three sets in the motor and they all checked out correctly. I have no reason to suspect anything is wrong, it‘s just wasn’t what I was expecting. So I’m asking if anyone can confirm this on a Hayward 1.5 super pump.
Cheers!

The L1 and L2 terminals are connected through the windings in the pump, essentially just one large loop of wire, so there is very little resistance between them, which would read like a short. Apply 120v to only L1 or L2 either and test the other empty to ground or neutral and and you will read 120v if the windings are good.

 

[JamesW]

When set to 120, the windings are in parallel and you won't know if one set of windings is open.

Set it to 240 and then test line to line.

With it set to 240, the windings are in series and you will be able to see a break.

Can you show pictures of everything you are doing?

 

[zico21]

The L1 and L2 terminals are connected through the windings in the pump, essentially just one large loop of wire, so there is very little resistance between them, which would read like a short. Apply 120v to only L1 or L2 either and test the other empty to ground or neutral and and you will read 120v if the windings are good.

First of all, thanks for the quick replies. The motor was working fine when removed for the winter. I was just replacing the wiring as I wanted the pump to be hard wired now that I’ve added a timer (among other reasons). I was being paranoid when I saw the “short” between L1 and L2 (without any wires attached) during my ”checking” test. You have explain why this would be the case. Thanks!

The picture attached is BEFOR I started the replacement and as you can see the black (hot) wire is on L1 and the white (neutral) is on L2 and the line on the jumper is aligned with the 115v arrow which is what I believe is correct. I went through the windings resistance test as found on the link below and all test were good which didn’t surprise me as the pump was working when removed for the winter.

How To Use a Multimeter to Test a Pool Pump Motor - Winding Resistance - INYOPools.com

This guide shows you how to measure the resistance in your pool pump motor's coils (windings).

www.inyopools.com