I have just moved from the older IntelliTouch system (due to faulty board) to the IntelliCenter. I've had the VSF pump for a while but I don't think I was using it to it's full potential and now that I am starting from scratch I'd like to set up the system for maximum efficiency. I am near Houston, TX so it gets pretty Dang hot in the summers. I've updated my sig to show my pool setup and would love if some of you experts could chime in with some recommended pump settings and schedules. I do have 2 valve actuators, one for the pool and one for the spa - I've always had them set to only be open for each mode (pool mode = pool valve open spa closed) and I'm assuming that is the best way to do it? I do not have any other water features at this time. I usually have the cleaner set to go some time in the middle of the night so it's not constantly in the way during prime swimming times. I'm open to recommended settings and schedules so that I can start to really use my equipment to its full potential!
Requesting advice on setting up new system
- Thread starter Killer Squirrel
- Start date
KS,
Since you have a SWCG, I suggest that you run your pump as slow as you can and still turn on the SWCG plus 100 or so RPM just to make sure the flow switch is closed. That will be the slowest speed you ever want to run. I'd run the pump 24/7 at that speed and then only add speeds to accomplish something. Like a speed or two for when you use the spa. A speed that will run your cleaner. A speed that allows your heater to work.
Running 24/7 allows you to make a little chlorine all the time. It also allows you to skim all the time. Cost should be less than $20 bucks a month.
Keep in mind that your spa needs to spillover into your pool so that the water get chlorinated. You can do that by letting the spillover constantly run, or you can set up the "Spillway" function that shuts off the constant spillover, and allows you to schedule when you want the spillover to work.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Since you have a SWCG, I suggest that you run your pump as slow as you can and still turn on the SWCG plus 100 or so RPM just to make sure the flow switch is closed. That will be the slowest speed you ever want to run. I'd run the pump 24/7 at that speed and then only add speeds to accomplish something. Like a speed or two for when you use the spa. A speed that will run your cleaner. A speed that allows your heater to work.
Running 24/7 allows you to make a little chlorine all the time. It also allows you to skim all the time. Cost should be less than $20 bucks a month.
Keep in mind that your spa needs to spillover into your pool so that the water get chlorinated. You can do that by letting the spillover constantly run, or you can set up the "Spillway" function that shuts off the constant spillover, and allows you to schedule when you want the spillover to work.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Thanks! I did see some references to the spillover function but I'm not sure if that would apply to my setup? When the 'pool' valve is open it sends water to 3 pool jets and 1 spa jet (separate one from the 4 full spa jets) which gives enough water for basic spillover. When the 'pool' valve is closed and the 'spa' valve is open it is just the 4 main spa jets running, which I also have a bubbler but that is waaay too much air and just results in water spewing all over the deck around the spa so I rarely use the bubbler. I don't know that there is ever a reason to have both 'pool' and 'spa' valves open at the same time. How much should I set the main pump rpms for when using the cleaner since I also have a booster pump? Would the booster pump be enough to run the cleaner with the main pump running it's 24/7 low rpm mode?
KS,
You have the standard pool/spa set up. Your spa will spillover into the pool anytime the pump is running unless you are in the Spa mode.
Some like this action, and some do not. If you like it, leave it alone, but if you want to control when the spillover is on and off, then you can set up the Spillway mode.
Your automation will not allow you to put the system into both the Pool and Spa modes at the same time.. Just never needed.
I live in this century, so I have a robot cleaner which does not need a pool pump to run, so I don't know the answer to your cleaner question. My gut says it should work just fine, but my gut is often wrong..
Let's see if @1poolman1 knows how fast the main pool pump needs to run in order for the booster pump to work.
Thanks,
Jim R.
You have the standard pool/spa set up. Your spa will spillover into the pool anytime the pump is running unless you are in the Spa mode.
Some like this action, and some do not. If you like it, leave it alone, but if you want to control when the spillover is on and off, then you can set up the Spillway mode.
Your automation will not allow you to put the system into both the Pool and Spa modes at the same time.. Just never needed.
I live in this century, so I have a robot cleaner which does not need a pool pump to run, so I don't know the answer to your cleaner question. My gut says it should work just fine, but my gut is often wrong..
Let's see if @1poolman1 knows how fast the main pool pump needs to run in order for the booster pump to work.
Thanks,
Jim R.
The RPM required to keep the booster filled with water is different on every system. Much depends on where in the plumbing the booster supply is attached. If it is in a vertical pipe right before the ground after the pool/spa diverter valve it requires more RPM as at low speed to water will literally fall back into the pool and there isn't enough pressure in the line to force water to the side and into the booster pump. If it is in a horizontal run the RPM can be less, especially if the port is at the bottom of the pipe. Trial and error. Likely 1700-1800 will be sufficient, but it needs to be tested.
If I plumb in a new valve for a pool/spa, instead of a 90 to turn the water to the ground I use a T with the booster supply on the other side of the horizontal run so that water will have a straight run into the booster hose.
Well it seems to be all moot at this point... I get home from work today to start setting it up and the screen is dead. Whole thing is non-responsive. I've checked power at the breaker, transformer and at the board input and all have power. It was working fine as of today when I logged in from work and checked it remotely. After a call to pentair, they say I have to pay a pool company to come out and tell me it's bad before they will warranty it. I waited 4 months just to get this upgrade kit and now I have no pool at all.
Just curious, are there any 'pool professionals' on the forum that would be able to sign off saying the part is bad so that pentair will honor their warranty? I think it's absolutely ridiculous that just because I install all of my own hardware that I do not have a valid warranty and would now have to pay someone to drive out and tell me that the bad part is bad.
Killer,
You have to see things from the other side.. I used to manage several repair shops for non-pool related products..
The items we shipped to engineers and installers had a very low return rate and for the most part, they were actually bad. The items we received back from the end-users had at least a 50% "No Problem Found" rate. In other words half of what was return we could not duplicate any failures. These were some pretty sophisticated devices and it took several days to run all the tests. And if under warranty, we had to eat the costs.
The point being that Pentair does not know you from Adam. Most end users don't know the front of a pump from the back of a pump, so unless you want to be buried in returns that are not actually bad, you have to be careful of who is allowed to return what.
Thanks,
Jim R.
You have to see things from the other side.. I used to manage several repair shops for non-pool related products..
The items we shipped to engineers and installers had a very low return rate and for the most part, they were actually bad. The items we received back from the end-users had at least a 50% "No Problem Found" rate. In other words half of what was return we could not duplicate any failures. These were some pretty sophisticated devices and it took several days to run all the tests. And if under warranty, we had to eat the costs.
The point being that Pentair does not know you from Adam. Most end users don't know the front of a pump from the back of a pump, so unless you want to be buried in returns that are not actually bad, you have to be careful of who is allowed to return what.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Been in the business for 34+ years now. I "think" I'm professional enough to diagnose a part as being bad. That being said, I don't so warranty service for Pentair, nor anyone else. Therefore, on a rare occasion that I have had to ask for a warranty to be honored (Pentair makes some pretty goo stuff), unless I get the right service rep on the phone, they will only honor the warranty if one of their service centers sends a tech out.
Jimrahbe is right on point. I used to do warranty work for RayPak. You would be amazed at some of the self-installs that I saw that, according to the customer, "are EXCTLY like the instructions say to do it." Half-inch flex tubing will not run a 400K BTU heater, no matter what the guy at the hardware says.
I understand. Though I don't consider myself to be the average homeowner - I've done everything from plumbing to electrical to HVAC on my own and my family's homes, and more often than not my work is better than many of the "professionals". I've designed pcbs and made my own guitar effects pedals and tube amps, pulled my own 150A service entrance cables and panel in my home. I installed all of my own pool equipment including pumps, filters and the entire panel with the intellitouch I'm now replacing. But yes, I know pentair doesn't know me from anyone else. What IS frustrating however is that when I explained it all to the tech, they had no further troubleshooting steps to try and admitted that it sounded like it was indeed faulty. Sorry guys, it's been a rough couple years and I'm just venting. I'm just not sure what further someone from a local pool company can say about a dead board.
Killer,
I have no clue who Pentair will send to your house, but the guy they sent to me brought along the parts and replaced everything while he was here.
Thanks,
Jim R.
I have no clue who Pentair will send to your house, but the guy they sent to me brought along the parts and replaced everything while he was here.
Thanks,
Jim R.
That would be great if that were the case. I have to call and pay someone just to come out and tell me the part is bad. Then pentair may elect to send me the replacement part to install myself. Since I bought the part myself and installed it myself, I have a "parts only" warranty and they will only honor that if a "pool professional" signs off that the part is indeed bad and tells pentair which part needs to be ordered.
Unfortunately, that is the case with all manufacturers now. They have been burned by too many warranty claims by owner installers.